Do-it-yourself insulation and upholstery of wooden entrance doors. How to insulate the porch of a wooden door How to properly insulate a wooden entrance door

We looked at insulation country house in several ways and touched on the main points that can increase energy savings. But today we would like to talk in more detail about how the entrance to the house is insulated, which provides additional heat retention.

Naturally, for high-quality energy saving of a building, it is necessary to carry out proper insulation of windows and doors in order to create a tightness and prevent heat from escaping into the street and being replaced by autumn and winter cold. Windows are easy to deal with, but doors are a more complex issue, since it will not be enough to simply cover them with paper or treat them with foam rubber; you need to carry out more extensive work.

Insulation of wooden doors

Already for a long time Such structures are insulated in the same way - by padding on both sides with a special material, under which foam rubber, cotton wool, synthetic winterizer, and other insulation materials are placed.

First of all, you will need to purchase a door insulation kit, just try to choose a quality one with all the necessary elements. A reliable and practical kit combines material for trim on both sides of the door, insulation, rollers or tapes for securing the upholstery around the perimeter, a special set of foam tapes or rubber bands for laying in the doorway, and fasteners in the form of decorative nails.

Insulation of a wooden entrance door in country house It begins with the fact that the door leaf must be removed and carefully laid on the floor. Next, unfold the insulation kit you purchased and follow the instructions. If there are no instructions, we present you simplest algorithm.

Lay the door leaf on the floor, preferably on several blocks, so as not to damage the side adjacent to the floor with scratches and chips.
Take measurements and compare the doors with the canvas, do a fitting.
If the upholstery is slightly larger than the door, it should not be cut, it will be enough to pull it from the corner, that is, for example, from above and to the left, and when there are tolerances at the bottom right, they can be folded inward.
Before starting the upholstery, insulation is laid out on the door leaf. You can also put it on glue, even the simplest PVA, the main thing is that during upholstery the insulation does not slip or clump into clumps.
Afterwards, we begin the upholstery, for example, from the top of the door or from the corner, carefully monitoring the progress of the material so that it does not move to the side and does not lie askew on the canvas. The upholstery is done using decorative nails in the central parts of the door. Along the perimeter, the upholstery must be fastened with nails, but through a special roller that will prevent the edges of the upholstery from tearing.
Then you can move to the other side, and then install the lock and handles.

If the door already had a lock and handles installed, they will need to be removed before upholstery and reinstalled after upholstery. In order not to invent unnecessary problems for yourself, do not place insulation under the upholstery in the part of the door where you will install the lock and do not cut out the “window” for the lock in advance.

Insulation of metal doors

Insulation of a metal entrance door occurs a little differently, and most often it is insulated only from the inside, but with a much larger layer of insulation. The process is quite simple.

Doors for insulation do not need to be removed from the hinges and door frame, but can be insulated in place. But, if you are uncomfortable working in this way, the canvas can be removed and laid on the floor.
First of all, it is necessary to mark the sheathing on which the insulation and sheathing material will be attached.
Usually, it is done horizontally, parallel to the floor, every 50-60 cm, depending on the insulation, but since not much insulation is needed, the lathing can always be done exactly as it suits you.
After marking, we install the sheathing from wooden beam or mounting strip, depending on the thickness of the insulation, the door and your requirements for the quality of insulation.
After lathing, we lubricate the canvas with glue, partially or spotwise, just so that the insulation material is fixed.
The material is laid sequentially, from top to bottom, be it polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool or other materials.
Do not forget about installing a lock, for which you will need to make a dimensional slot in the insulation. If the lock is already installed on the door, you will simply need to “hug” it with insulation.
After finishing the lathing and insulation process, it is necessary to sheathe the doors decorative finishing. This could be plastic, lining, plywood, OSB and other materials that you consider more worthy.
Sheathing can be done using nails, self-tapping screws, bolts and nuts, or special fasteners for the material being installed.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the front door should be well thought out, because if you leave the frame “cold”, as well as cracks for drafts, upholstery and insulation of the door leaf itself will be simply pointless.

Insulation of metal door frames

Insulation can be a waste of time if you don’t think about the most important thing - the door frame and the gaps between its base and the door leaf.

The work proceeds as follows:

Initially, you need to remove the door panels and insulate them, but do not hang them back on the hinges, but work well with the frame.
Initially evaluate how the box is installed; perhaps it needs to be strengthened to the wall, ceiling and floor, to make it rigid and reliable.
Afterwards, the metal box should be well blown polyurethane foam, but only professional, which will not open the base of the box and will not bend it.
After the foam has dried, it will need to be carefully cut off and puttied several times, giving each layer the opportunity to dry. It is advisable to place a reinforcing mesh between the putty, otherwise within a year all your work may end up on the floor.
Afterwards, wait for the putty to dry completely, rub it until smooth, prime and paint.

At this stage, we can say that the iron entrance door is insulated and should not allow heat to pass through, but you should also think about drafts that will carry it away.

Using the methods described above, you can also insulate garage doors, sheds, summer kitchen and other buildings on the dacha plot.

Do-it-yourself door insulation (video)

Proper insulation doors and windows in the country house, installing an infrared heating system or even an oil radiator can provide you with heat for the entire winter period. We wish you not to freeze!!!

The first autumn cold has arrived unnoticed, and if your apartment or country house has become uncomfortable like autumn, you should take a close look at the front door and windows - most likely, you will have to start insulating them. We won’t touch the windows now, let’s talk about the door, since this is where the most problems occur. Especially if the door is wooden and has served for many years.

Insulating a wooden front door is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance: having a simple tool and more or less stable handling skills, your personal desire and our advice will help correct the situation and meet the cold winter with dignity.

So, there are, by and large, only two ways to insulate the front door:

Sealing the door frame in the areas where the door leaf adjoins;
Insulation of the door leaf using thermal insulating materials.

Door seal

To seal the doorway, you will need to purchase a special rubber seal. This sealant, in the form of a tape rolled into a roll, is widely available and inexpensive, and has an adhesive base on one side, which greatly simplifies its installation.

Before going to a hardware store or market, you should measure your door along the perimeter, the length of which will correspond to the length of the insulation you are purchasing. Pay attention to the width of the folds: folds are the place where the door leaf adjoins the frame, and it is obvious that the width of the insulation should be similar or slightly smaller. Try to determine the width of the slot gaps - the sealing tape, due to its thickness when compressed, should completely cover the gap.

Having the results of simple measurements in hand, you can choose the right rubber seal, which is very easy to install. We seal the doorway in parts - the upper part along the width of the door, having previously cut off the corresponding piece of tape, then the vertical sections along the height of the door and, finally, the lower part. To glue a strip of insulation, you need to carefully press its adhesive side to the folded part, gradually removing the protective paper strip. Make sure that the seal lies evenly, without distortions, along its entire length.

When purchasing entrance doors for a private home, you need to decide on a number of questions: price, reliability, etc. We will consider everything existing options, as well as pros and cons. We'll tell you what you need to pay attention to when buying a door, the basic requirements.

Doors should not only protect against penetration, but also trap cold air from the street.

Here the properties of the material itself, as well as design features and insulation methods, play an important role. Most often, doors are: - made of metal, - made of PVC profile, - .

Most often, metal doors or metal-plastic structures are purchased due to their high resistance to fire. But there are a number of problems that should be foreseen in advance:

Many manufacturers coat the outer part of the door with a special composition; it helps protect the door from external influences and mechanical damage.

The door structure can be steel, and the frame is made of bent profile (very burglary resistant), pipe (any custom door can be made) or angle iron (lowest price).

Features of thermal insulation

Can be used various types insulation. Sometimes you can do this yourself, but before starting work, carefully read the instructions about the properties of the material and the features of its installation.

Wooden door panels are considered the warmest. But you must remember that they quickly dry out and become deformed. For such doors, it is necessary to frequently carry out preventive maintenance, remove all gaps.

Whatever the doors are: metal or wooden, they have one common feature– this is the goal, between the door leaf and. It is through this that cold air most often enters the house. On the outside, tubular insulation is usually glued around the entire perimeter. It is sold in strips of various widths. The larger the gap you have, the thicker the insulation you buy.

IMPORTANT: The threshold plays a big role in thermal insulation. It should cover the gap under the door well. When installing, also remember that it should not interfere with opening and closing.

Insulation: types and properties

Entrance metal door

Most often, owners purchase doors made of metal. This is due to the fact that they are practically not subject to mechanical damage and weather conditions, and are not afraid of fire.

When choosing doors, you need to think about the design. The best are steel sheets with a thickness of 1.5 to 2 mm. The thicker it is, the tougher and stronger it is.

IMPORTANT: the more stiffening ribs inside the structure, the better door retains its shape.

Stiffening ribs are:

- transverse (elements are located horizontally) - resist torsion, because of this it is impossible to bend the corners of the door,
- longitudinal (ribs are located vertically) - resist pushing or squeezing from the box,
- combined (ribs located both horizontally and vertically) - the best option.

There are doors that are not only covered with sheet metal on the outside, but also on the inside. Most often, elements are secured by welding.

Armored doors are considered the most reliable. These doors are made using the same technologies as safes. To prevent the door from being penetrated by bullets, a concrete solution is poured inside. They also provide special constipation.

If you decide to buy a door, pay attention to the thickness, it should be more than 1.2 mm. Chinese versions can be cut very easily with a regular knife.

The box must also be strong and reliable. Choose a steel for its manufacture or purchase from 1.3-1.5 cm.

If you decide to install a reinforced door, then the hinges must also be strong. Usually they install ball, safe, regular or with a bearing. The number of hinges depends on the size, material, and finish of the door itself. The minimum quantity is 3 loops. Ideally, they will be located from the inside.

To force the door to be removed, it is equipped with pins at the end of the door leaf. In this case, even if the hinges are cut, the door will still remain closed.

Entrance doors can be insulated in several ways:

Tambour. In addition to the main metal door, another door made of any material is installed. The vestibule prevents you from freezing due to the temperature difference. This is a very labor-intensive process and if the house has already been built, it is almost impossible.
Electrically heated door. A cable is installed along all the contours of the canvas and boxes. Even in severe frosts, such a device protects against icing and freezing. You will not notice condensation on such doors. With this option, be prepared for increased electricity bills.
With thermal break. Manufacturers make a multilayer of thermal insulation materials. It has the same properties as a pillow of air in a vestibule. An excellent option that also saves space in the apartment, but it is quite expensive.
The most the easy way is an installation or canopy. This option will not only protect your door, but will also give you the ability to easily open the door during rain without getting wet. Typically, the project includes a porch that can accommodate a family of several people.

FOR REFERENCE: Thermal breakdown is a phenomenon that occurs on materials that have different thermal conductivities. The most commonly used materials are PVC, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, and isolon with foil. These materials do not allow cold air to pass through. Wherein inner part the door remains warm, even at an outside temperature of -25C.

Exterior finishing

When choosing a door model, take into account the style of your entrance. In direct contact with the street, choose a material that is not afraid of temperature changes. When upholstering fabric, make sure that it is not afraid of temperature changes, as well as precipitation.

I do not recommend using chipboard or PVC boards. These materials are afraid of water and snow.
If you decide to paint the canvas, then purchase hammer paint. Most often it is used in harsh climates.
Vinyl plastic can withstand temperatures down to -20 C; if the temperature is lower, the material becomes brittle.
To add sophistication, you can take ship panels that are resistant to water. Most often these are oak, pine or alder panels.

Wooden entrance doors

If previously it was believed that wooden doors were the least suitable, then due to technological changes, with the advent of new components, the situation has changed. Let's consider several options for doors with "influx".

The first option: for production they take pine, oak, beech or ash. The thickness of the canvas is from 0.8 to 1 cm. Penoplex or polyurethane foam is used as filler. Cover with paints or varnish.

Let's look at what a “bead” is - this is an element from a profile that is needed to apply a seal. It fits into the box and closes the gap. Why is it necessary?

Cold air flows, water or snow do not penetrate into the gap. No freezing.
Compaction materials can be placed over a large distance.
The light opening is not reduced, as in conventional doors. These couple of centimeters will be very useful to you if you decide to bring furniture or household appliances large sizes.

Standard series: differs in that the door is first assembled and only then painted. This is usually the cheapest option. In this option, all adjacent parts and the inner surface remain without paint.

Baguette 80/100 – there are a couple of differences from the previous series. A baguette frame that gives solidity; in this option, you can paint all the elements before assembly. The frame is also well attached, you can use hidden fasteners and not damage the varnish layer. You can make a blind door or supplement it with double-glazed windows. This is a fairly expensive option and not all openings can be fitted with a door.

To secure the door, it is best to use the following canopies:

Screw-in – with a weight of up to 30 kg per loop. After a few steps, sagging is possible.
Overlays – for weights up to 50 kg per loop. Very reliable, but not always aesthetically pleasing.
Mortise.

pros:

Disadvantages of wooden doors:

They can be hacked faster than metal ones.
A wooden door will be lighter.
Thermal conductivity is 0.15, which is almost 300 times less than that of metal.

Manufacturers

Insulated doors are now produced by both Russian and foreign manufacturers. The most famous company is Torex. She has been making metal doors for more than 25 years. She uses innovative technologies and has many patents and certificates.

Doors with increased strength can be purchased from the Elbor company. This is a large retail chain that produces durable, environmentally friendly and burglary-resistant doors.

"Medved" produces durable, heat-insulated doors. This company employs many highly qualified specialists, as well as a lot of innovative equipment.

The Bostion-S company provides a guarantee to all customers. Moisture resistant, very safe and with a long service life. The company makes it possible to make unique options for any order.

“Stal” has been manufacturing metal doors for the lowest purposes for more than 20 years. Because of this, they are very popular and also beautiful to look at.

In order to keep your home cozy and warm during the approaching winter season, as well as to reduce heating costs, you need to insulate it now wooden door. There are several effective ways to increase the thermal insulation properties of the entrance structure. You must choose the appropriate method based on several factors: the causes of heat loss, the structural features of the opening and the nuances of operating the product.

Why does heat leak through the door?

A priori, before choosing technology and thermal insulating materials, it is necessary to understand the situation: for what reason does heat loss occur through a wooden entrance door in a private house or apartment. There are several most common causes of heat leakage:

Presence of cracks in the canvas. The appearance of these defects may be associated with errors in installation, subsidence of the structure, or critical operating conditions (sharp temperature changes, high humidity). Cracks are usually sealed with a sealing compound or putty. This type of problem solving has a negative impact on appearance products and requires additional decorative finishing.
Insufficient fit of the door to the frame. This may be caused by failure of the hinges or deformation of the fabric. The situation can be corrected by replacing the hinges or adjusting the size of the door to fit the dimensions of the door frame by trimming it with a plane. The situation can also be corrected by installing a seal around the entire perimeter of the canvas.
Large gap between the bottom of the canvas and the threshold. This error can be eliminated by replacing the worn threshold or installing an insulating roller on the outside of the door.
Weak thermal insulation properties of the canvas material. This problem can be solved in several ways: by upholstery, sheathing, or filling the cavities of the door structure with insulation. Effective way Insulating the thermal insulation of the entrance block can be done by constructing a vestibule, that is, installing a duplicate door.

Sealing the contour of a wooden door

Often the cause of drafts in a private house or apartment is a large gap between the canvas and door frame. The easiest way to eliminate cracks is to install a factory-made rubber seal. It has a sticky base and is available on the market in a range of different widths and profiles.

Important! Despite the presence of an adhesive layer on the base of the seal, specialists recommend “planting” it with glue good quality. This will significantly extend the service life of the product.

If a factory product is not available, you can make your own seal. For manufacturing, you will need strips of foam rubber in width corresponding to the size of the gap. They must be wrapped in dermantine or other upholstery material, the shade of which matches the color of the door. The resulting rollers are nailed along the perimeter of the canvas. This may not be the most sophisticated option from a decorative point of view, but it effectively eliminates drafts and keeps the house warm.

Insulation of the threshold area

A common phenomenon is the appearance of cracks at the base of the door in the space between the leaf and the threshold. This defect, which leads to heat loss in the house, can be eliminated in several ways:

Replace the old deformed threshold with a new product, the height of which ideally matches the level of the canvas.
Make a roller with your own hands, similar to the one recommended for sealing the door contour, but with great value thickness. Attach it with nails to the bottom of the canvas.
To eliminate the excess gap between the base of the door and the threshold, you can also attach a special sealing brush along the bottom of the leaf.

Fabric covering

Most available material For covering wooden doors, foam is used. It is inexpensive, lightweight, easy to install and characterized by high thermal insulation properties. The peculiarity of the foam insulation process is that a layer of insulating material must be sheathed on top finishing material to enhance the decorative qualities of the front door. Sheets can be used as finishing decorative panels or soft upholstery - dermantin.

Step-by-step instructions will help you carry out the sheathing process:

The door is removed from its hinges and placed on a flat horizontal surface.
Old cladding or decorative elements are dismantled.
Rollers are formed from foam rubber or polyethylene foam, wrapped in strips of dermantine, and nailed along the perimeter of the canvas.
The insulation is cut to the dimensions of the canvas and covered with dermantine. They can be connected using glue or “welded” with a red-hot knife.
Glue self-made panels (foam-dermantin) onto the door leaf using glue or “liquid nails”.
Make holes in the panels for door handle and a peephole.
Hang the insulated door on the hinges and lubricate them.

An alternative to dermantine is ready-made factory sheet panels, for example laminated fiberboard. To install these materials, a frame is pre-assembled from planed beams, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the foam.

Pieces of foam plastic are cut to the size of the frame so that they fit into the prepared frame without excess or large gaps. Finished cut pieces of polystyrene foam are glued to the door with high-quality glue. A sheet of HDF is placed on top of the insulation and secured with nails. The end parts of the frame are painted in the color of the HDF.

Wooden door trim

This method is time-tested, but now enjoys little popularity. Its main advantage is its availability and the ability to easily implement it yourself. The process is carried out as follows:

Rollers are made of foam rubber or polyethylene foam and secured around the perimeter of the door with nails.
Insulation is attached to the surface of the door and secured with glue or staples.
Soft upholstery is applied on top of the insulating material and secured with furniture nails.

Important! If the insulation of the door leaf using this method is carried out from the inside, then the upholstery must be done in the gap of the door frame.

The insulation layer should not be too thick. This will not only create difficulties with the operation of the door and give it an unaesthetic appearance, but will also significantly increase the load on the hinges, which will quickly become unusable and require replacement.

Arrangement of the vestibule

In the case of installing a wooden entrance door in the same plane with outer wall and the presence of a deep doorway, you can implement an alternative way to insulate the entrance block - arrange a vestibule with the installation of a duplicate door. Between the input and internal canvas is created air bag, which performs the function of a thermal insulation layer.

The internal door can be an ordinary interior door and repeat the design of the other panels. To increase thermal insulation, it is recommended to equip the duplicate structure with a threshold.

When constructing a second door, it is important to observe the following rule: the necessary fittings must be placed between the two leaves, the main one of which is the door handle.

Choosing the type of insulation for a wooden door is a matter of taste and capabilities of the owners of the house or apartment. Modern high-tech materials provide unsurpassed thermal insulation and give the door excellent aesthetic properties. If the budget for the event is limited, you can use time-tested methods of insulating doors and, for greater savings, do all the work yourself.

The entrance area and windows in any room are the largest heat-transmitting surface. And if it is possible to solve the problem of heat loss with windows by installing double-glazed windows, then you will have to work with the entrance. When starting any renovation or construction, you need to immediately decide how to insulate the front door, regardless of the material from which it is made. This applies to both metal and wood. In this article we will describe popular thermal insulation materials, a method of insulation and decoration.

Insulation methods

Modern entrance metal and wooden structures are already on sale with thermal insulation. Another question is that the thickness or quality of the material is not enough to retain heat in the house (Chinese models mainly suffer from this). Also require preparatory work and custom-made items, which are initially produced only in the form of a canvas with a box.

In total there are 3 main options:

end sealing;
use of rollers;
insulation for doors.

What is used for thermal insulation

The sealing of the ends and the rebate is used in any case if it does not fit tightly and air movement is felt. Even an insulated door without a seal will let in cold air and heat will begin to escape through it.

Rollers can be used both as an independent element and for upholstery with decorative or insulating materials.

Thermal insulating upholstery is applied on the inside, decorative on the outside or both. Depending on what material is used, the finishing method is chosen.

Thermal insulation:

foam;
isolon;
mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
expanded polystyrene.

Decorative:

leather;
vinyl;
leatherette;
leatherette, etc.

It is very easy to work with foam rubber - the finished sheets are attached to the panel and secured on top with strips. But the inexpensive material accumulates water, which creates cold bridges. In addition, mold can form under the foam rubber.

Izolon is structurally similar to foam rubber, but does not absorb water as actively and does not crumble during operation. They fasten it in the same way as foam rubber.

Mineral wool is more preferable for insulating a structure, but over time it will begin to clump and sag, gradually as if flowing down. It is advisable to first fill the beads on the inside in the form of small rectangular sections and then insert mineral wool plates into them. This will prevent loss of volume and will not create cavities.

Polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene are very light plates that hold their shape and have good thermal insulation properties, but when burned they emit extremely toxic substances.

Polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene crumble heavily when cutting sheets. This can be avoided by using hot wire. Cutting work in this way is carried out outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.

How to insulate a door with a sealant

Let us repeat, this is a mandatory measure for any entrance element where there is a loose fit of the sash to the frame. The seal completely closes the gaps through which cold air passes through, strengthens the pressure and makes the closing process quieter. Structurally, this is a tape, one side of which is covered with an adhesive layer, and the other is made in the form of a rubber or foam pad.

The rubber seal is of better quality and lasts longer due to less damage and less compression. The service life of foam rubber rarely exceeds 2-3 years and this is due precisely to the soft structure of foam rubber, which can come off and bend in some places.

Before you start gluing, you need to measure the perimeter - the width and height of the canvas and with this calculation, buy the required footage of the tape. Before purchasing tape, be sure to consider not only the perimeter of the box, but also the thickness of the rebate and slots.

For reference. The door ledge is a 3-5 cm thick strip that acts as a continuation of the door leaf and extends onto the frame itself.

The gluing process itself is very simple:

degrease the places where it will stick;
starting from the bottom, carefully separate in small areas paper from the sticky layer and, pressing, fix the tape.

Today, with the advent of adhesive tape, it has become very easy to isolate cold bridges, whereas previously in the same places it was necessary to nail down pieces of leatherette folded in several layers with small nails.

For greater effect, you can glue soft tape to the edge of the box.

Sealing with special rollers

Insulating the front door with rollers allows you to perform 2 tasks at once - to close the cracks through which it leaks, and to decorate the panel. The cushion is a soft seal that is wrapped in upholstery material. The rollers are rolled in small portions and nailed on the inside.

Currently, this method is not popular, as in Soviet times, but is an excellent way to seal entrance doors.

The upholstery process looks like this:

prepare the material - the seal is wrapped in leatherette;
from the inside they nail it with nails strictly along the edges of the canvas;
in the lower part, make sure that the rollers protrude half a centimeter.

VIDEO: What is the difference between insulated metal doors and wooden doors

Working with insulation

Insulation for doors is selected based on budget, door material and estimated service life. It is easiest to work with polystyrene foam (read about this below), but it will be better to use isolon or mineral wool. After fixing, the door insulation must be covered with a finishing material - leatherette, leatherette, vinyl, etc.

First, determine the required quantity - measure the perimeter and add 1 cm from each edge.

It is best to insulate the front door on both sides - this way you can completely eliminate heat loss and save on heating costs. Finishing, accordingly, is also carried out outside and inside.

Work process:

Remove the fabric from the hinges and lay it horizontally.
Unscrew all fittings - hinges, handles, brackets, etc.
Clean the surface from dust and dirt and degrease it.
If the insulation for the doors is mineral wool, a mesh of thin glazing beads with an edge size of 15-20 cm is made on the inside. For foam rubber and isolon, this is not required.
Depending on its type, the insulator is secured with nails, construction staples or glue.
Leave to dry for several hours and nail down the finishing decor. A construction stapler works best for this purpose - quickly, reliably and very easily.

To further decorate the outside, you can mark diamonds with chalk, hammer in decorative nails at the joints, and stretch a strong fishing line between them. IN in this case insulated Entrance door will look aesthetically more attractive.

Screw on the fittings and return the structure to its place.

The process of working with foam plastic

There are 2 equally effective ways:

fixing the plates from the outside or inside and upholstering with leatherette (leatherette, vinyl, etc.);
filling sections with glazing beads and installing cut pieces of foam with subsequent decorative finishing.

Both methods have a right to exist, since the thermal insulation does not change critically. In both cases, the doors are insulated with your own hands, for which you will have to remove the structure from the hinges, decorate it with finishing and fix foam plastic or polystyrene foam.

First way

From the outside, the canvas is cleaned and degreased.
Apply a layer of liquid nails and tightly fasten sheets of foam or polystyrene foam.
Decor is stuffed on top, making 1 cm protrusions along the edges and arranging them in the form of rollers.

Second way

Remove from hinges and dismantle all fittings.
The sheathing is made from the inside using thin glazing beads.
Cut the foam into the required pieces.
They are inserted into the windows with force so that there are no empty gaps.
Decorated with laminate plastic panels, fabric materials, etc.

As you can see, there are no difficulties in making door insulation with your own hands. Enough to have on hand necessary materials and understand exactly what to do and why.

VIDEO: How to insulate a wooden entrance door with your own hands