Drain solenoid valve with on timer. Check valve for a water heater: a detailed description of why a check valve is needed Read more about the design and principle of operation of different types of valves

Drain valve for draining water - an important element of any fluid circulation system. On the AQUIC online store website you will find this necessary part in stock!

Drain valve: varieties

There are several types of valves that are installed in water supply systems and filters. The most famous of them are:

• back;
• balancing;
• constipated;
• safety.

Each of the models has its own design and functional features.

• Drain check valve prevents fluid from moving in the opposite direction. It is installed to maintain pressure in the system and avoid leaks.
• Balancing valve with drain Helps maintain hydraulic conditions. Also, using such a device, you can determine water consumption over a certain period of time.
• Shut-off drain valve ideal for heating systems. It not only participates in regulating the flow of water in radiators, but is also equipped with equipment for draining or filling batteries.
• Drain safety valve makes it possible to relieve excess pressure to avoid overloading the system. It is actively used in heating installations.
• Separately worth mentioning filter drain valve . It is installed in water purification systems and is therefore made from the safest and highest quality materials.

Buying a drain valve in the AQUIC online store is profitable!

AKVIK company offers to purchase drain valves different types at competitive prices. Models of the most popular diameters from reliable manufacturers are available for sale:

• DMfit.
• BIORAY.
• Storm tek.
• Acquic.
• c.c.k.

All parts are made of polypropylene, durable and safe for the human body. In this regard, they can be installed in filters and drinking water circulation systems. Installation is carried out using simple soldering.

Buy quality parts from AQUIC, the price of which will be much lower than in other stores! It doesn't matter if you need drainage system check valve or any other type, there is sure to be a suitable option in the catalog.

The constant availability of hot water in a house or apartment has long become a familiar norm for most people, without which it is difficult to imagine a normal, comfortable life. If a water supply is extended to the housing or an autonomous uninterrupted water supply is organized, for example, , then there is nothing to think about - you need to install a water heater of one type or another.

Probably the leading position in popularity among water heating devices for domestic needs are electric boilers. They are extremely easy to use, their installation does not require any additional coordination procedures or drawing up individual projects. Installation of such a boiler is quite feasible even for independent installation. That is why the information that will be presented in this publication is necessary - each of the home craftsmen must clearly understand how important a safety check valve is for

How would workers of housing and communal services, emergency and rescue services, state technical supervision authorities warned what would stories with the consequences of accidents have not been shown on television, still with alarming regularity there are “smart people” who benefit from all these technical recommendations and simply kind advice is not a decree, they themselves “know what is simpler and better.” Alas, ignoring a very small, inexpensive, easy-to-install, and at the same time extremely important object for piping an electric water heater can result in very big troubles, and, it is possible, even a tragedy.

First of all, it is necessary to immediately make a very important disclaimer. Although very often, in order to obtain information, those interested enter the search query “check valve for a water heater”; it would be much more accurate and correct to talk about a safety valve that combines several functions. These devices have a certain similarity, but there is also a huge difference, which predetermines the main task - security safe operation of an electric heater.

For comparison, consider the device of a conventional check valve:

This is how a regular check valve works. But it’s not enough for a boiler!

This is a metal cylinder, on both sides of which there are threaded sections for “packing” into a straight section of pipe of the appropriate diameter. A poppet valve is stopped inside - a disk with a rubber seal around the circumference, on the central axle - rod(shown in the figure with a green arrow). The disk is constantly in a spring-loaded state, blocking the internal channel for the passage of water.

When water is supplied in the direction of the arrow (the direction of the permissible liquid flow is always indicated on the valve body - this mark is shown with a red arrow in the figure), the pressure in the pipe through the “plate” compresses the spring and slightly opens the passage. As soon as the pressure decreases, the valve automatically returns to the closed state.

This precaution is, of course, necessary to ensure that the tank in the water heater is constantly filled, under any circumstances. However, such a measure is clearly not enough to ensure safety - this will be discussed below.

The safety valve is somewhat more complicated:

Essentially, these are two valves in one body, placed perpendicular to one another.

In the larger cylinder (item 1), which follows the flow of water, the same valve is installed, preventing the reverse flow of water. On the supply side there is a male threaded section (item 2) for insertion into the water supply system (in particular, it will be convenient to connect a flexible water supply hose here). On the opposite side there is a female threaded coupling (item 3), which in some cases is screwed directly onto the standard cold water supply pipe in the electric heater.

The figure clearly shows the check valve “plate” (item 4) with a sealing ring around the circumference, and the spring (item 5) that holds the valve closed.

Now here is the main difference. Perpendicular to the cylinder with a check valve there is another one, somewhat smaller in size (item 7). In fact, it contains the same poppet valve, but its spring is much more powerful - this is the same safety “breakdown” valve. Normal and even slightly increased pressure in the water supply system will not be able to compress the spring and open it - this requires much more serious efforts.

In the cylinder cavity behind the safety valve “plate” there is necessarily a hole with a pipe (pos. 8), where excess liquid will be discharged when the valve is activated.

A cylinder with a safety “breakdown” valve can be completely plugged, and sometimes it ends with a threaded plug (plug), behind which there is an adjusting screw (usually with an “internal” hexagon). But the most common safety valves are those with an additional lever:

The figure clearly shows the features of such a device. The lever (pos. 9) is intended for manual opening of the safety valve with water discharge through the pipe (pos. 8). Please note that the pipe may have a special relief design, which allows you to put thin hoses on it to drain water into the drainage (sewer). The manual valve control function can be convenient, for example, for draining the contents of a boiler during repair or maintenance work. However, you should not get carried away with using such manual control - this can in some cases even be dangerous (this will be discussed below).

Any safety valve always has an arrow indicating the direction of cold water flow towards the water heater. (there is a red arrow in the diagram). Very often, the maximum operating pressure of the “stall” valve is indicated on the body - in this case it is 0.7 MPa or 7 atmospheres (yellow circle in the figure).

How does a safety valve work in different situations?

To fully understand the importance of a safety valve, it is best to consider the cases in which it operates, as well as the situations that may arise if for some reason the valve is missing or faulty.

For clarity, once again - the simplest, but also the most understandable scheme for piping a boiler with a safety valve. The blue and red arrows show the direction of flow of cold and hot water, respectively. The green arrow points to the installation location of the safety valve.

1. After the electric one is installed and completely “tied”, it should be filled. To do this, simply open the cold water supply and the hot tap on one of the mixers. There is enough pressure in the water pipe to open the check valve to allow unimpeded flow. As the volume of the water heater tank fills, air is displaced. As soon as water flows from the mixer, the entire container is filled to the upper intake pipe, the supply can be turned off.

The pressure in the boiler at this moment is approximately equal to the pressure in the cold water main - it is, as it were, “propped up” by it. However, it may even be a little higher - due to the remaining compressed small volume of air in the upper part of the tank. Plus, when the power is turned on, the water begins to heat up - and this, of course, also leads to an increase in pressure.

2. Let's imagine a situation where the check valve is not installed or is in a faulty condition. The equilibrium that was achieved when filling the boiler tank is sooner or later disturbed, since the pressure becomes higher than the pressure in the pipe. The “hot” taps on the mixers are closed, which means that the heated water will look for an outlet in a different direction. This can lead to hot water suddenly starting to flow from a “cold” tap, or to filling the toilet flush tank with it. Meanwhile, the boiler thermostat cannot understand the situation and does not give a signal to turn off the heating elements. Expensive electrical energy is completely wasted.

3. But this is not the saddest thing. It is no secret that the pressure in the water main, especially in multi-storey buildings, often drops to critical values ​​(from the tap, as they say, it barely flows), or even disappears completely. There are a great many reasons for this, for example, an accident on the highway, maintenance work, a planned reduction in pressure, for example, at night, etc. What happens if the check valve is missing or faulty? Nothing good - the boiler will simply empty, since all the water from it will completely flow into the supply pipes.

It’s good if the boiler has protection against “dry” heating, and it will work quickly! And if not? Powerful heating elements will idle heat the air in a closed volume, and this will end either in their burnout or cracking of the enamel - in any case, nothing good can be expected in such a situation.

4. A reasonable question may arise - is it possible? limit myself only by installing this same check valve? It would seem, judging by the description, that he is able to solve all problems.

Do not consider it an exaggeration: such an installation is like a bomb planted in your home!

No, under no circumstances is it possible. The installation of a complex valve that combines both non-return and safety valves is a prerequisite for the safe operation of the water heater.

If somewhere the reader comes across a similar picture - only a check valve at the inlet, then he should understand that this is comparable to a planted powerful bomb, which will explode unknown when.

Another example of “suicidal creativity”

Let's look at the situation in detail. When the boiler is turned on, heating begins, and as the temperature rises, according to the laws of thermodynamics, the pressure in a closed volume begins to increase.

Designers of household appliances include a certain operational resource in each water heater, allowing the device to operate up to certain pressure values ​​in the tank - usually this value is indicated in the technical documentation. Typically, all boilers are very balanced thermodynamic systems, in which the optimal ratios of permissible temperatures and pressure levels are very accurately calculated. Nevertheless, anything can happen. And as soon as the pressure level, for some reason, begins to approach the permissible upper mark, the spring on the safety valve is compressed, and the resulting excess liquid is discharged into the drain pipe. As a result, the system again enters a state of dynamic equilibrium.

Water coming out of the drain pipe is normal.

Now let’s try to imagine what can happen in a situation where there is no emergency valve, and everything is limited only by the return

Water heating should be limited by a thermostatic regulator, but quite often these electromechanical devices are far from perfect and can simply fail. In this case, heating continues uncontrollably.

The pressure inside the boiler tank is growing, but there is no way out - the mixers are closed, and the check valve has reliably shut off the supply line. It would seem that the temperature will only reach 100 degrees, to the boiling point of water? Nothing like this! As the pressure in a closed volume increases, the boiling point of the liquid also increases sharply. For example, the data is shown in the table:

When the word “bomb” was mentioned above, this is not at all an exaggeration! In such circumstances, the water heater becomes really a scary explosive device destructive force.

Already at 4 - 5 atmospheres of pressure the boiling point reaches almost 150 ° WITH, and continues to rise. An increase in pressure on the walls can lead to their deformation, chipping of enamel or ceramic coating - but this will be the least of all possible evils. Another scary circumstance is a sharp drop in pressure in this closed system, and this can happen when a crack appears in a weld, when a rubber seal breaks, or even simply when a hot water tap is opened.

A sharp decrease in pressure leads to a corresponding sharp decline boiling temperature of water. As a result, the entire volume of liquid (imagine all 50, 80 or 100 liters at the same time!) instantly boils, which, of course, is accompanied by the release of a colossal amount of steam. No one, even the most durable building, can withstand this - a powerful explosion follows, which is capable of demolishing everything in its path, including even brick interior walls. There are many clear examples of this on the Internet.

It's hard to believe, but these are the consequences of an explosion of an ordinary electric boiler

So, let's briefly summarize the issue of the need for a safety valve.

— It prevents reverse leakage of water from the tank into the supply pipeline in the event of a decrease in pressure.

The presence of a valve at the inlet creates additional protection for the boiler from possible strong pressure surges in the water supply and from water hammer.

— The safety valve will eliminate possible shortcomings in other safety levels - it will maintain the temperature-pressure regime in the boiler within acceptable values.

— A safety valve equipped with a lever also allows water to be drained from the boiler if necessary.

Video: Is it necessary to install a safety valve on the boiler?

Recommendations for selecting and installing a safety valve

Selecting the right valve is not difficult. Most often, boilers (especially from leading manufacturers) go on sale complete with a valve of the required rating. You will need to focus on the same value if for some reason you have to change the valve in the future.

The maximum pressure value in the boiler tank must also be indicated in the technical documentation of the product. If the water heater is not equipped with a valve, you will have to purchase it yourself, based on the value indicated in the passport. It is important to choose the right rating here - if you install a valve that is too “weak”, water will leak from it almost continuously. A valve with too strong a spring will not create absolutely safe operating conditions.

The valve can be “packed” directly onto the boiler pipe for cold water (always has a corresponding blue color marking. For reliable sealing during installation, it is best to use flax tow with modern sealing pastes. When tightening, 3–4 full turns are usually sufficient. If there is a flexible liner underneath , then a rubber sealing gasket is sufficient.

Sometimes a drain valve is inserted between the valve and the boiler itself - this greatly facilitates periodic maintenance work. Such an installation is quite acceptable, but only under one condition - the valve must be located at the outlet of the tee, but in no case should it interrupt the direct channel from the water heater to the valve. Any shut-off valves on this straight section are strictly prohibited!

Step-by-step instructions for wiring an electric water heater

It makes sense to consider step by step how you can independently connect an electric boiler to the water supply system. The table below shows two options as examples. Despite some differences, in both cases it will still be clearly demonstrated that the safety valve is a mandatory element of the piping of such a water heater.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	To begin with, a few words about installing the water heater itself on the wall. Of course, the location is thought out in advance, before purchasing the device, so that the boiler fits in the space allocated to it and does not interfere with the normal operation of the room. A power cable connected to a separate machine is usually installed in advance at the installation site. Insertion points into the water supply system are also immediately provided. To accurately hang the boiler on the wall, its height is measured.
	Knowing the height of the water heater, it is easy to determine the lowest point of the position of the device that it will occupy after installation.
	On the back side of the water heater body there are devices for mounting on the wall. In this case, it is a regular mounting strip (bracket) that will cling to the hooks. There may be other options - the device’s instruction manual usually describes all this, and often 1:1 templates are also included to simplify the marking process.
	In this case, it is necessary to determine the location of the line on the wall along which the hooks will be mounted. To do this, measure the distance from the lower end of the water heater to the mounting plate.
	The same distance is marked on the wall vertically from the previously designated point of the planned lower edge of the boiler.
	With control over the building level, a horizontal line is drawn along which the hooks will be located.
	The next step is to measure the required distance between the hooks. In this case, 200 mm will be optimal - the hooks will be placed closer to the edges of the mounting strip, but there will still be the possibility of a slight play left and right to align the water heater.
	This distance is transferred to the intended horizontal line - the centers of the holes for the hooks are marked. In the example shown, they landed rather poorly - exactly on the seams between the ceramic tiles. If there is such a possibility, then it is better to mark the holes away from the edge of the tile - the likelihood of a crack appearing when drilling holes is much less.
	Powerful hooks were chosen to hang the boiler: the outer diameter of the polymer dowel plug is 14 mm, the length of the dowel is 80 mm, the diameter of the metal hook is 8 mm. Often, the electric water heater kit already includes the fasteners recommended for installation.
	At the designated points, the corresponding holes are drilled with a hammer drill, into which dowel plugs are driven. Then the hooks themselves are screwed in.
	The hooks are screwed in to such a depth that a reliable, stable fit of the water heater is ensured, without play, but also without jamming.
	That's it, the boiler is hung on the wall. From below you can clearly see two pipes through which the device will be connected to the home water supply system. The pipes are color coded: blue – cold water supply, red – hot water outlet.
	The appropriate connection has already been made into the water supply system - here are two polypropylene pipes to which the water heater pipes need to be connected. On the left is the hot water supply pipe, on the right is the cold water supply pipe.
	In the example under consideration, the master decided to equip the entrance to the boiler with an optional element - an additional tap, which will be used if it is necessary to empty the boiler. To do this, a tee will be installed on the inlet pipe of the water heater. The recommended preliminary “fitting” is carried out - how many revolutions are needed for the swarm outlet to take the required position. In general, it is advisable to carry out such fittings before assembling any fixed assembly - there is less chance of making a mistake.
	After this, the tee is packed onto a tow winding coated with Unipak sealing paste.
	The tee is packed and given its intended position.
	A compact tap will be mounted on the side branch pipe of the tee.
	The tow is wound up and sealing paste is applied.
	The tap is screwed in, tightened with a key, at least three turns, and given the planned position for easy access to the handle.
	But now it’s time to install a mandatory element - a safety valve. Be sure to pay attention to the arrow showing the direction of water flow.
	The safety valve will be installed on the lower pipe of the already installed tee. The basic rule is fully observed - there are no locking devices between the valve and the water heater. The valve installed on the side branch of the tee does not have any effect on the safety of operation of the device.
	The valve is packed onto a tee - in the illustration this entire assembly is assembled.
	It is advisable to make the boiler piping dismountable - this will make it possible to turn off the device to remove it, for example, for maintenance or to replace the heating element or anode rod. Therefore, the foreman decided to install shut-off ball valves with an “American” union nut at both inputs. An example of such a tap is shown in the illustration.
	The tap itself will be tightly packed onto the lower branch pipe of the safety valve. And a fitting for transition to a polypropylene pipe will be mounted on the fitting with the union nut itself. That is, it will not be difficult to disconnect the boiler from the pipes.
	A second similar tap is installed for hot water, but directly on the outlet pipe of the water heater. And it is also assumed that a fitting for transition to a polypropylene pipe will be packaged with the removable fitting with the “American” one.
	Here the fitting mounted to the tap fitting is tried on at the installation site. In this case, a 90-degree elbow fitting was used to immediately lead the pipe closer to the wall.
	Next, another bend will be welded in - and the pipe will go down along the wall.
	A regular fitting for switching to polypropylene is mounted on the fitting of the second tap for hot water. But this was done solely for reasons of aesthetics in the appearance of the piping - so that the “step” of transition to a level closer to the wall on both pipes is located at the same height. Next, the usual welding and installation work with polypropylene pipes is carried out.
	This is how neat the overall water heater piping unit turned out to be.
	And this illustration shows how the supply pipes are welded into the previously left water supply pipes. The water heater installation is complete. You can open all the taps (except the drain), fill the boiler with water, and connect to the power supply. If necessary and possible, a transparent PVC pipe is placed on the drainage pipe of the safety valve, which is discharged into the sewer, toilet flush tank or some container - the excess water released will not fall on the floor.
	Now let's consider a possible option for piping the boiler with the installation of a flexible line. The illustration shows that the water heater is already hung on the wall. The arrow shows one of the “water outlets” - pipes hidden in the wall under the finishing of cold and hot water pipes.
	Conventional ball stop valves will be packaged onto these connections. In this case, there is no particular need to use taps with a union nut - the piping will be dismountable due to the use of a flexible connection.
	The nozzle is wound with flax tow. Some craftsmen use FUM tape, but there are still many more supporters of reliable sealing using tow.
	The winding is coated on top with Unipak sealing paste.
	Then the tap itself is screwed on - first it is baited by hand...
	...and after that, it is tightened with a wrench, so that the “lamb” is located in a place convenient for use – at the top.
	A similar operation is completely repeated with the second tap. That's it for now.
	Let's move on to operations directly on the boiler itself. Its two pipes are ready for further installation.
	A sealing winding is performed at the inlet pipe - a safety valve will be installed here.
	In this case, the master decided to limit himself to only the valve, that is, to do without installing a drain valve on the tee. A completely normal solution - you can drain the water from the boiler through the valve - a special lever is provided for this. Draining will take a little longer, but installation is simpler and cheaper, and you still don’t have to resort to emptying the boiler very often.
	The valve is screwed on and then tightened with a wrench so that the lever and drain pipe are in a position convenient for the user. In fact, this was the last connecting node, requiring winding of tow.
	The safety valve is installed in its original place.
	Flexible hoses are connected. In this case, the master used high-quality corrugated stainless steel hoses, which, according to their characteristics, are considered “eternal.” A flexible hose made of a rubber or plastic hose in a metal braid is, of course, significantly inferior in reliability, and is attractive only due to its low price. The installation principle is completely identical. Hoses in length are purchased taking into account the distance from the boiler to the “water outlets”. The gasket that comes with it is inserted into the union nut of the hose, then the nut is inserted onto the thread of the pipe (in this case, the outlet). No winding is necessary if the end of the pipe along the entire circumference is in normal condition - the gasket will provide the required level of sealing of the connection. The union nut is first screwed on by hand until it stops...
	...and then tightened literally another ¼ ÷ ½ turn with a wrench. There is no point in over-tightening the connection - you can pinch the gasket and thereby achieve just the opposite result.
	The second end of the flexible hose is connected in the same order to the threaded pipe of the faucet on the corresponding “water outlet”.
	The installation of the second hose is carried out in a similar way, with the only difference being that its upper end is connected to the safety valve branch pipe. Now you can turn on the water and check all connections for leaks. If a “tear” is detected, you can slightly tighten the connection with a wrench, without applying much force - the leak should disappear.
	If there are no leaks, you can proceed to full operation of the water heater. The illustration shows the “lower node” of the boiler piping: a flexible line is connected to the taps of the “water outlets”.
	And these are the same hoses, but connected from above to the safety valve (for cold water) and to the hot water outlet pipe. The boiler installation is complete.

Video - Check valve on water heater

Frequently Asked Questions (F.A.Q.)

And finally, it makes sense to answer some of the most frequently asked questions regarding the operation of boilers with a safety valve.

• People often ask how to deal with annoying drops of water protruding from the drain pipe?

But there is no need to fight them - they only indicate that the valve is functioning normally. The easiest way is to put a transparent tube on the pipe (so that you can visually control it) and lead it either into a sewer pipe or, for example, into a toilet flush cistern.

• Is it possible to place the valve so that it is not visible?

By and large, if he is so annoying, then it’s okay. But at the same time, certain conditions must be met:

— No additional elements are allowed between the valve and the boiler - shut-off valves, tees, etc.

— The length of the section from the valve to the entrance to the boiler should not exceed one and a half to two meters. The fact is that the vertical column of water in the pipe will put additional pressure on the safety valve spring, and it will begin to work incorrectly, with severe undercutting.

• Leakage from the valve is too frequent and abundant, even at low water heating temperatures. What can be done?

The reasons for this phenomenon may be different.

— The valve rating does not correspond to the characteristics of the water heater.

— the spring in the valve simply weakened over time.

In both cases, the valve should be replaced with a new one with the required actuation force.

Another reason may lie in the instability of pressure in the water supply system. For example, frequent pressure surges with a large amplitude lead to valve activation even in the absence of heating. In this case, it is recommended to install a pressure reducer at the entrance of the water supply to the house (apartment).

• Can I try to adjust the valve myself using adjusting screws?

Definitely no! Adjustment of such devices requires " calibrated» pressure, and carrying out such procedures on your own is prohibited. The valve is not such an expensive product that it is impossible to purchase a new one of the required rating.

• I never saw even a drop of water come out of the valve. This is fine?

And here this is a very worrying sign. Who knows, perhaps the valve is simply “calming” with its appearance, but is completely inoperative. For example, the chamber behind the disc spring is overgrown or clogged with scale, the pipe is clogged, etc. If the valve is equipped with a lever, then you can try to check it manually (only better - at low heating temperatures, about 40 degrees, so as not to get burned).

It is possible that the valve rating is too high - it does not correspond to the water heater model. In addition, manufacturing defects cannot be completely ruled out.

The best way out of this situation remains the same - replacing the safety valve with a new one.

It will be calmer this way!

Never skimp on your own safety!

Video - Tricks for connecting an indirect heating boiler

During any design of water supply systems, gas supply and other systems that work with different liquids, either at home or in enterprises and factories, the necessary devices and parts are selected for a specific area and in achieving the necessary goals and indicators. Of course, the list of such devices could take a long time. But specifically we want to highlight devices such as electromagnetic (solenoid) valves.

What are solenoid valves

Solenoid valves are simple devices that are used to regulate the smooth operation of fluid flows in specific systems (pipelines, irrigation systems, gas supply systems, oil refineries, etc.). They perform a locking function.

What types are there and where are they used?

When selecting such valves, it is very important to consider the environment in which they will be used. Therefore, there are several types of such devices.

For example, to work with plumbing, the so-called is used. It perfectly serves to protect hoses and pipes of the irrigation system. This device is widely and effectively used when laying a separate water supply for irrigation. If the pipe is laid at a high level and there is a risk of freezing, then the drain valves themselves will discharge the remaining water from the system. It is widely used. In this case, the valve response time is set on the timer, which is very convenient, since it completely automates the operation of the device. That is, you can program the valve to operate at a set time, during which water will be stored or drained at the right moment and the valves will be able to operate regardless of pressure.

Where to buy drain solenoid valves?

In our online store you can find different types drain solenoid valve and a drain solenoid valve with a timer from well-known domestic and foreign manufacturers (Russia, Spain, Portugal and not only). The product has a quality certificate and has passed a number of tests. Prices for goods will undoubtedly pleasantly surprise you! On the store’s website you can familiarize yourself with the products offered in more detail and immediately place an order by contacting qualified company employees online. That is, all you need is to use your computer and in a matter of minutes you will purchase the product. Phone orders are also accepted 24 hours a day. Delivery is carried out promptly to all regions of Russia.

Not a single modern pipeline can operate without valves, regardless of what exactly is being transported through it. These devices perform several functions at once, among which we can note protection against water hammer of sensitive equipment (pumps), regulation of pressure in the system, etc. What speaks in their favor is that the installation of such a device is extremely simple.

Valves classification

Similar devices on water pipelines (as well as gas pipelines, etc.) are used for several purposes:

• protection of equipment from pressure surges– for example, check valves are usually installed in front of pumps to prevent damage to the equipment during water hammer. The installation is carried out using detachable connections, so even if you have no experience, you can do the work yourself;

• adjustment function– water pipes are only allowed in one direction, so it will help in this situation too. As soon as the water tries to go in the opposite direction, the petal will block the passage in the pipe;

• valves can also be used to regulate the pressure in the system, the boundary force is selected at which the transported medium opens the valve, as a result, as soon as the pressure in the pipeline exceeds the maximum, it will open and the pressure will equalize. The air valve on the gas pipeline is an irreplaceable thing.

This does not exhaust the functionality of shut-off and control devices; they can also be used to control pumps, wastewater treatment, to minimize leaks, etc.

Read more about the design and operating principle of different types of valves

Recently, in addition to conventional valves (which operate solely on the basis of the application of force), electromagnetic analogues have also appeared; they can be controlled remotely. A water solenoid valve can be used, for example, in a “smart home” system; from one remote control you can control control devices throughout the house and in the surrounding area.

Solenoid valves

The key difference from other analogues is that it does not allow water to pass through when pressure increases, but solely at the command of a person. This is their main advantage.

As for the design, the key element can be considered a coil, which, when electric current passes through it, causes the core to move, which opens/closes the passage hole. Such devices can operate either from batteries (supply voltage 24V) or connected to the network (voltage 110V or 220V).

As for classification, we can distinguish:

• normally open/closed or bistable;
• Also, a 220 V solenoid water valve can perform: flow switching function (2/3 way), shut-off (2/2), three way (3/2).

Note!
When choosing, you need to take into account the operating features of each model.
For example, if an electromagnetic shut-off device is produced with servo control, then you need to know that it simply will not work at zero pressure drop, so at least a minimum pressure drop is still needed.

As for the scope of application, electromagnetic devices fit perfectly into the “smart home” concept. For example, an electric water valve installed in a caisson will be able to drain automatically, without even having to leave the house, and this example is the simplest.

Simple and combined models

When operating a water pipeline, you have to solve problems such as:

• releasing air pockets from pipes that formed directly during operation;

Note!
This problem especially often has to be solved when operating a heating system.
All radiators require the installation of a special valve to release excess air.

• when draining water (for example, while preserving a pipe for the winter), it is necessary to ensure an air flow that replaces the drained water in the pipe;
• When the pipe is filled, the valve must allow air to escape.

A simple Mayevsky crane with manual control can handle the release of air plugs; the price of such a device does not even reach 200 rubles.

But other types of shut-off and control valves can also be used:

• Single-function valves are used to automatically relieve excess pressure. They are used to maintain the functionality of pumping equipment, etc., except for equalizing the pressure in the system; it is not suitable for anything else;
• combined - allow you to solve all the listed problems. Their device uses a movable float; when the pipeline is filled with water, it rises and blocks large holes through which air enters; when water is drained, it also falls, the holes open and a vacuum is not created in the pipe.

Note!
Also, combined devices may have small holes to equalize pressure.

Drainage

A drain valve can be used not only in a house to discharge water from pipes, but also as a device to ensure the safety of water supply from a well. Such devices are similar in principle to combined air devices and in winter, when the pressure in the pipe decreases, they discharge water into the well.

When the pressure is above the minimum, the ball closes the outlet and water flows into the house. If the pressure drops below the minimum mark, the ball opens the outlet and water flows back into the well, this allows you to preserve the system when the water in the pipe freezes.

A drain valve is useful for protecting hoses and pipes of an irrigation system; such a device is especially useful when laying a separate water supply for irrigation. If the pipe is not laid very deep and there is a risk of freezing, then the drainage pipes themselves will discharge the remaining water from the system.

Of course, you can simply install a drain valve and do the same yourself, but no one can boast of perfect memory. The valve will definitely not forget to drain the water.

As for installation, a threaded (that is, detachable) connection is most often used. Most often, the entire instruction consists of tightening the union nut by hand, and then tightening it with a wrench. In industry, welded and flanged connections can be used.

Summarizing

The normal functioning of a water supply system without valves is simply impossible. It is this device that will allow you to drain water from the system and fill it again without any problems; there will also be no problems with air locks. The ease of installation of such devices only adds to their popularity.

The video in this article shows the installation of a check valve in a hot water supply pipeline.

Timely drainage of water from an automatic irrigation system is one of the main measures for quality equipment care during the winter period. Water remaining in the pipeline can freeze and damage it, resulting in costly repairs. To avoid this problem, you need to buy a Gardena drain valve that discharges water automatically.

Principle of operation

The part is a shut-off and control valve with a simple principle of operation. The device is part of Gardena's underground water supply system and is used for frost protection. Its installation is carried out at the lowest point of the irrigation system, in a layer of washed coarse gravel. A 3/4" thread is used for connection.

When the system is in watering mode, the Garden drain valve is closed. As soon as the water supply is turned off and therefore the water supply stops, the device automatically opens and the water that remains in the system is discharged (drained) into the gravel.

Advantages

By deciding to buy a Gardena drainage valve, you will forever get rid of the need to “mothball” your water supply for the winter. Since the part is intended for underground installation, it is made of anti-corrosion alloys that are resistant to negative substances found in the ground. The design and technical characteristics of adjustable protective fittings comply with current international standards and regulatory requirements of the Russian Federation. The price of the Gardena drainage valve is quite affordable for everyone.