Vacuum cleaner made from a traffic cone. Do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner - high technology in your home

Today I will share with you a product made by my friend Andrey Frolov. This is a cyclone filter for a workshop. Such a thing can be useful in any workshop, starting from small garage, and ending with professional workshops. Of course, professionals can afford to buy this miracle for themselves, but we will do it ourselves.

The whole point cyclone filter The problem is that sawdust and dust simply do not reach the vacuum cleaner, its standard filters do not become clogged and the power does not drop.

The air flow is drawn into the conical tube and twists in a downward spiral. At the same time, heavier sawdust is poured into the narrow neck of the cone, and the air flow (cleared of suspension) rushes upward, that is, into the vacuum cleaner.

How could the principle of operation of the filter be explained.

Let's move on to specifics. For work you needed:

• traffic cone
• glue gun with hot glue
• corrugated cardboard (or just cardboard)
• pair PVC pipes for sewerage
• container for construction mixtures (with a sealed lid)
• several pieces of plastic (plexiglass, etc.)

So, we attach the inverted cone with the top cut off to the lid of the plastic bucket, into the hole made in advance. We seal the joint with hot glue.

To prevent the adhesive seam from coming apart during operation, we reinforce it with triangular “ears” and a square insert on the other side.

When placed on a bucket, such a cone will not break off from the base. And the bucket itself with a tightly closed lid creates a sealed cavity into which garbage will be poured.

Let's move on to the most important TOP part of the filter. We cut a hole in the cone itself and the support platform and weld a sewer pipe into it at such an angle that it is parallel to the outer wall of the cone at the entry point. I apologize in advance - some of the photos are shown after general tests.

We close the tube on top with a cutoff, which additionally swirls the air stream. It was made from cardboard glued into a cone with the same hot glue.

From above, all this disgrace is covered with a plastic lid with a welded outlet pipe (the same sewer pipe). The cover is secured with self-tapping screws (for which fastening cylinders are provided in the cone).

The inside of the lid was insulated with foam sealant for windows and sealant. The pipe must be inserted into the cut-off hole.

In general, that's all. All that remains is to connect the assembled structure to the vacuum cleaner and start working. As a test, Andrei used the most harmful concrete dust generated during the repair process.

Using two vacuum cleaners (household and professional), the following conclusions were made: the filter works perfectly. To confirm his words, a photo of the filter by Prof. vacuum cleaner after a couple of hours of operation. There was absolutely no dust shaken out of it.

The second conclusion is that the filter works better with more powerful models (professional). The photo shows the insides after working with a household vacuum cleaner. Dust is collected regularly, but dust also settles on the walls of the filter itself

When working with a more powerful construction vacuum cleaner, this effect is three times less.

All that remains is to make a platform with wheels for greater mobility. In short, it’s a great thing - when I have time, I’ll make myself a cyclone.
By the way, here's

Cyclone-type installations are used in industry for purifying gases and liquids. The operating principle of the filter is based on the physical laws of inertia and gravity. Air (water) is sucked out of the device through the upper part of the filter. A vortex flow is created in the filter. As a result, the contaminated product enters the filter through a pipe located on the side of the upper part. Since debris particles are heavier, they settle in the lower part of the filter, and the purified product is discharged through the upper part. Today we will look at just such a filter, made for the workshop, together with the author of the homemade product.

Tools and materials:
76 l waste container;
Plywood;
Polycarbonate;
Plastic pipe;
coupling;
Fasteners;
Masking tape:
Manual frezer;
Electric jigsaw;
Drill;
Glue gun;
Band saw;
Sander.

Jpg

An example of creating a cyclone filter for a household vacuum cleaner in a workshop from Nikita Supryagin.

I finally finished the cyclonic separator filter for the vacuum cleaner. Since I work with wood and there is always an abundance of shavings and sawdust, and the household vacuum cleaner gets clogged when collecting these sawdust, I decided to build a cyclone. After watching enough videos and articles on the Internet, I settled on.

I reworked it a little, assembled it, tested it, and was pleased with the result. Approximately 95-98% of all debris remains in the filter. Below I am attaching a photo with descriptions.

So, for the work we needed: an old traffic cone, 40 mm sewer pipes, at least one 45 degree angle, a piece of plywood, chipboard scraps, a hot glue gun with rods, a paint bucket can.

We cut out the top cover that covers the cone from plywood with a jigsaw. In it, a pair of holes are made with a core drill of a suitable diameter - one in the center, and the second eccentric.

We insert the tube into the central one, with the extension upward (the hose from the vacuum cleaner will subsequently be inserted into it). We glue the joint of the tube with hot glue.

A pipe is also glued into the second hole, but we put an angle of 45 degrees on it (which is the swirler) - the flow, escaping at an angle, twists in a spiral. The angle must be inside the cone.

This cover is glued onto the top of the traffic cone, covering the large hole.

The cone is sawn off from below and glued into the lid of the jar. The lid itself was additionally reinforced with chipboard scraps.

These scraps with a hole in the center are pulled together with self-tapping screws.

I hope my experience is useful to someone.

Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).

I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!

I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for building a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of ​​installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).

The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

A suitable tin can was very useful for the cyclone body, and the central pipe was made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which the hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.

For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.

For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.

When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.

To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool due to large capacity capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.

The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.

To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.

To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of work with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.

The main disadvantages of this design:

— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage bin is inconvenient to clean, and the bag with big amount debris may tear.

— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from industrial vacuum cleaner(but the question arises of the price from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.

— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.

— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And separate Thanks a lot my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.

Recently I became interested in working with wood and the issue of removing shavings and sawdust arose very urgently. So far, the issue of cleaning the workplace has been solved with a home vacuum cleaner, but it quickly becomes clogged and stops suction. You have to shake out the bag often. In search of a solution to the problem, I looked through many pages on the Internet and found something. As it turns out, it is possible to make fully functional dust collectors from scrap materials.

Mini vacuum cleaner made from a plastic bottle

Here is another idea for a mini vacuum cleaner based on the Venturi effect
This vacuum cleaner operates using forced air.

Venturi effect

The Venturi effect is a pressure drop when a liquid or gas flows through a constricted portion of a pipe. This effect is named after the Italian physicist Giovanni Venturi (1746–1822).

Rationale

The Venturi effect is a consequence of Bernoulli's law, which corresponds to the Bernoulli equation, which determines the relationship between speed v liquid, pressure p in it and height h, on which the fluid element in question is located, above the reference level:

where is the density of the liquid, and is the acceleration of gravity.

If the Bernoulli equation is written for two sections of the flow, then we will have:

For a horizontal flow, the average terms on the left and right sides of the equation are equal to each other, and therefore cancel, and the equality takes the form:

that is, with a steady horizontal flow of an ideal incompressible fluid in each of its sections, the sum of the piezometric and dynamic pressures will be constant. To fulfill this condition, in those places of the flow where the average velocity of the fluid is higher (that is, in narrow sections), its dynamic pressure increases, and the hydrostatic pressure decreases (and therefore the pressure decreases).

• in hydraulic jet pumps, in particular in tankers for oil and chemical products;
• in burners that mix air and combustible gases in the grill, gas stove, Bunsen burner and airbrushes;
• in Venturi tubes - constricting elements of Venturi flow meters;
• in Venturi flow meters;
• in ejector-type water aspirators, which create small vacuums using the kinetic energy of tap water;
• sprayers (sprayers) for spraying paint, water or aromatizing the air.
• carburetors, where the Venturi effect is used to suck gasoline into the inlet air flow internal combustion engine;
• in automated swimming pool cleaners, which use water pressure to collect sediment and debris;
• in oxygen masks for oxygen therapy, etc.

Now let's look at the samples that can take their rightful place in the workshop.

Ideally, I would like to get something similar to a cyclone filter, but from scrap materials:

Homemade chip separator.

The principle is the same, but made much simpler:

But I liked this option the most, since it is a smaller analogue of an industrial cyclone:

ch1

Since I don’t have a traffic cone, I decided to settle on this design, assembled from plastic pipes for sewerage. An undoubted advantage is the availability and low cost of material for assembling the structure:

Homemade cyclone from plastic sewer pipes

In this case, the desired vortex will be created.
The following video shows a similar design in action:

And finally, a slightly modified version: