Garage stove made of metal drawings. How to make a stove for a garage out of metal with your own hands: drawings and recommendations

A simple do-it-yourself wood-burning garage stove can be made from different materials - brick, an old gas cylinder or a metal barrel with thick walls. A wood-burning stove can also be made from a piece of thick-walled pipe.

The main thing, when installing a solid fuel stove in the garage, is to arrange good ventilation of the room - forced or natural.

It is easy to make the following solid fuel stove designs yourself:

• – reliable and safe, requires some bricklaying skills;
• potbelly stove - easy to make from pipes, cylinders or thick-walled barrels;
• long-burning wood-burning stoves - you will need a cone firebox (cylinder, pipe) and a welding machine;
• waste oil stove - you will need pipes, a drill, welding and a diagram. Be sure to protect the oven from moisture and dampness.

If we compare designs, potbelly stoves heat up quickly, but do not retain heat, unlike bricks. Long-burning stoves require strict adherence to the dimensions according to the diagram, and waste oil stoves cannot be installed in garages made of flammable materials.

Option one - reliable and efficient brick

Sequential scheme for laying bricks in a simple stove for a garage

Brick wood-burning is a traditional reliable heating option. Compared to metal boilers and potbelly stoves, brick is safer, but such a stove takes longer to heat up and also cools down.

In order to build a wood-burning brick oven with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• fire brick;
• high-fat clay for masonry mortar. It is easier to buy ready-made refractory mortar for laying refractory bricks; it contains all the necessary additives.

Advice. Check the fat content by rolling a ball out of wet clay. If such a ball, thrown on the floor, cracks, then the clay is not suitable - low elasticity (fat content). Masonry clay must be soaked for at least 24 hours before mixing the solution.

• cement M300 and sand for the cement foundation of the stove;
• doors for the ash pit and firebox;
• grate material;
• asbestos thread for sealing;
• chimney valve;
• chimney pipe – asbestos or two-layer stainless steel.

Advice. If you make the chimney removable, then in the summer you can use the hole as additional natural ventilation.

We choose a place for the stove so that the chimney does not come into contact with the roofing and the stove does not interfere with movement.

The sequence of laying a simple brick stove for a garage, dimensions 60x60 cm, this is quite enough for a standard garage:

• The foundation for a small stove should not be made strong; 50 cm is enough. If you plan to have a tall stove, you can perform additional reinforcement of the foundation cement screed.

Note. If the garage has a concrete screed, then the foundation for the stove does not need to be poured.

• after the cement has hardened, you need to lay 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing felt) and you can start laying the furnace;
• solid base of the furnace - two continuous rows of bricks;
• We expose the ash pan door, fixing it with wire on four sides for rigidity. The wire is fixed with masonry mortar;
• ordering a brick oven for a garage - the order of masonry is easier to understand by watching the video material.

During the laying process, we check each row with a water level; it is important to maintain horizontal and vertical lines. Installation of the grate additionally requires sealing with asbestos thread.

You can upgrade a brick stove to the “rocket” type, in which case the heat transfer is doubled by using the heat of the chimney pipes.

When a brick oven is built with your own hands, you cannot immediately test and melt it. The masonry needs to be completely dry.

Option two - homemade potbelly stove

If you have a welding machine, potbelly stoves, proven and simple designs, can be made in one day. To fire a potbelly stove, you can use thick-walled pipes, barrels and gas cylinders. A rectangular potbelly stove can be welded from a metal corner and steel sheets (3 mm thick).

Important rules for locating a potbelly stove in the garage

In order to avoid fire, you must follow the following fire safety rules when installing a homemade potbelly stove:

• distance to walls and flammable objects - a meter, distance to a brick wall - 0.5 meters;
• the walls and ceiling around the stove are additionally sheathed with sheets of metal;
• a thick metal sheet is placed under the stove - 10 mm or a cement screed is made - thickness 20 cm;
• It is necessary to install ventilation (forced or natural) so that if there is smoke there is no trouble. A 5 cm gap under the garage door or two exhaust vents under the roof will ensure sufficient natural ventilation of the room.

The distance from the stove to the car must be at least two meters. If you come into close contact with the hot walls of the stove, there is a risk of damage to the paint or ignition of the fuel.

An additional protective casing made of brick walls will not only create a convection flow of warm air and increase heat transfer, but also ensure safety.

Note. Only square or rectangular potbelly stoves can be covered with bricks. A furnace in the form of a cylinder requires a special design of the casing, in the form of side metal ribs. A brick casing for the cylinder will reduce heat transfer and lead to rapid burning of the walls.

How to make a simple square potbelly stove

For a standard garage, a heating device 30 x 30, 50 cm high is quite enough. The diameter of the pipe for a potbelly stove is at least 30 cm, the wall thickness is at least 5 mm. For a chimney, a pipe with a diameter of 12–15 cm and a thickness of 3 mm is suitable. To prevent the chimney pipe from quickly becoming frozen, it is wrapped on the outside with a layer of mineral wool.

Work order:

• First, we draw the cutting of the stove parts, determine all the dimensions;
• we cut out the necessary parts from sheet metal to size;
• First, we weld the walls and bottom of the oven together, but only grab them. To be able to set all sides strictly according to level;
• after checking the vertical and horizontal lines, you can weld all connections using a T-weld;
• We install the lower partition into the finished housing. You immediately need to drill holes in it to remove ash (the step between the holes is one and a half centimeters, from the walls - 5 cm);
• the partition is located no lower than 10 cm from the bottom;
• cut out a circle in the back wall to install the chimney pipe;
• firebox and blower doors - distance from the wall - 5 cm;
• when attaching the door curtains, you need to take into account that they will sag due to temperature, so we attach them 2 cm higher;
• The last to be mounted are the legs of the potbelly stove - the height is at least 15 cm and the top sheet of the stove is installed.

In order to obtain maximum heat transfer, the stove pipe should not be straight. It is necessary to install pipes with two 30-degree turns and lead them through the wall of the garage. Then the combustion products will give off all the heat not to the street, but to the room.

The video shows how to make a simple potbelly stove from a metal sheet and corners and from an old gas cylinder.

Option three - waste oil stove

This heating device provides maximum heat transfer and requires virtually no fuel costs - there is always used oil in the garage. The only disadvantage of this stove is that it requires a high chimney, and combustion products create soot that will have to be cleaned often.

Mini wheels for cars. Let's watch the video, making such a stove is a couple of trifles.

Option four - long-burning wood stove

Maintaining a positive temperature in a garage is difficult, especially in a metal or profile structure, even insulated. Therefore, long-burning stoves are the best solution for a garage, where you just need to maintain the temperature above zero, so as not to warm up the engine every day and not spoil the spark plugs or drain the battery.

Such a stove can be made from an old gas cylinder, sheets of metal and even brick. The point is that in such a stove the access of air to the firebox is limited and the wood does not burn, but smolders, maximizing the fuel efficiency.

By placing firewood into such a stove from above, the fuel is pressed as it burns by a metal piston.

From a simple old barrel you can make a heating device for a garage that runs on sawdust, ash and construction waste.

Even if you make a long-burning stove completely correctly with your own hands, you may not achieve maximum heat and the consumption of wood will be high. The reason is incorrect fuel filling. Firewood cannot be stacked vertically in the stove - only horizontal stacking.

The video describes the reasons why fuel in a stove with wood on top does not burn out completely.

As a conclusion, is it possible to heat a garage with such a wood stove? If you follow important safety rules, then such heating devices are an excellent alternative solution for small garages without an electrical connection.

What is important to remember:

• you need high-quality garage ventilation to avoid smoke fumes and fire;
• it is necessary to protect the metal parts of the heating device with a casing made of fire-resistant materials;
• the chimney must be routed so that it does not come into contact with the wooden rafters of the roof;
• there must be at least two meters from the hot walls of the stove to the car;
• Water from the chimney must not be allowed to enter the firebox; a protective cap must be installed on the pipe;
• choose durable materials for the stove;
• a waste oil stove may explode if moisture gets into the firebox;
• To prevent condensation from flooding the chimney, it is insulated with mineral wool and foil or removable galvanized pipes with internal insulation with mineral wool are installed.

The safest option for any garage is a long-burning brick stove or one protected by a casing made of refractory bricks.

To heat your garage, you can easily make a wood-burning stove with your own hands. This will not take much time and will be very inexpensive, since you can use scrap materials.

Why do you need to heat non-residential premises?

State standards establish that the air temperature in the garage should not fall below +5°C. If these standards are not adhered to, the engine will not start, especially after the vehicle has been idle for a long time.

In extreme cold, even antifreeze can freeze. The number of car breakdowns due to the negative effects of hardened water is significantly increasing. Also, you will agree that it is much more comfortable to carry out vehicle repairs in a warm environment.

Advantages and disadvantages of heating with wood

By choosing solid fuel as an energy source for heating your garage, you can get the following advantages:

• low cost of firewood;
• no need to buy expensive installations and spend additional money on electricity;
• small dimensions of the stove with high productivity rates;
• the heating device can additionally be used for cooking and heating food;
• ease of manufacture and installation of wood-fired installations. There is no need to additionally equip a massive foundation.

The disadvantages include that such heating devices heat up quickly, but at the same time they also quickly release heat to the environment. To maintain the optimal temperature, you need to constantly add fresh firewood. Fuel consumption increases significantly.

Types of heating devices

To heat a garage, you can make the following types of stoves with your own hands:

• potbelly stove with a metal body;
• brick oven;
• long-burning heater.

To install a potbelly stove yourself, you need to have skills in working with a grinder and a welding machine. In this case, brickwork is much easier to produce.

Potbelly stove - manufacturing features and structural elements

Potbelly stove diagram

This is a fairly simple design, which consists of the following elements:

• loading chamber or firebox;
• grate;
• blower;
• ash pan;
• metal door;
• chimney.

To make the installation, use thick metal 4 mm thick. When attaching the chimney pipe to the upper wall of the combustion chamber, it must be strengthened. This place is considered the weakest; metal most often burns out here.

Use a strong metal mesh as a grate. You can take a ready-made one or make it yourself from a corner or wire. Make many small holes in the grate to remove ash.

Step-by-step instructions for making a potbelly stove from a steel pipe

1. Use a steel pipe with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 m and a length of 1 m, to which you need to weld the legs.
2. From a steel sheet, cut two circles of the same diameter as the pipe.
3. In one circle, make a door for the firebox and a hole for the ash pan.
4. The length of the grate is equal to the length of the potbelly stove, and the maximum width is equal to the diameter. It is best to use a metal mesh with a width slightly smaller than the diameter of the housing. Insert it into the pipe and weld it to the walls.
5. Weld metal circles to the pipe. Monitor the quality of the seam to ensure the stove is sealed.
6. Near the hole in the circle, attach hinges onto which you will place the doors.
7. On the housing cover closer to the rear wall, make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney pipe.

The following wood-burning stove design for a garage is suitable if you do not have a metal pipe. It’s very easy to make it yourself using scrap metal.

Manufacturing technology:

Brick stove

To install a brick oven for a garage with your own hands, you will need to additionally fill a small slab foundation 200 mm deep. Line the combustion chamber completely with refractory bricks.

On the front wall of the structure, leave a window for the door and vent. Using pieces of brick, make small protrusions at the bottom of the heater for installing a grate.

To install the cover, place the fittings on the walls. Lay 1-2 rows of bricks on top.

You can also use a metal sheet to arrange the top wall. Place it on the stove, then cover the cracks with fireclay clay. At the top of the device, provide a hole for the chimney.

Design of long-burning furnaces

Thanks to the presence of a special damper, homemade stoves of this type are very effective, since the wood does not burn, but smolders for a long time. With the help of vents you can control the intensity of the flame and the power of the heating device.

Schematic representation of a long-burning furnace

To make a garage heating installation with your own hands, you need to use a metal tank with a volume of 200 liters. In its upper part, make a hole for the chimney with a diameter of 150 mm. Also provide a hole for the pipeline through which fresh air will flow into the barrel.

For the weight, cut a circle of metal that matches the diameter of the barrel. Weld channels to it. Also make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm, where you insert a small piece of pipe. Place such a load in a barrel under the lid. Make two holes in the body of the heater to supply fuel and remove ash. Additionally equip each of them with doors.

Making a heating device with your own hands is quite simple, using simple materials - a metal sheet or barrel, corners, pipes, bricks.

Video: Super potbelly stove for the garage

Car enthusiasts who have a garage at a decent distance from their home always face the problem of heating it in winter. After all, there is no point in having a cold garage. Therefore, everyone tries to invent something for heating. The simplest thing is to turn on an electric heater, but the problem is that it is not able to fully warm up a room such as a garage. In addition, electricity is not a cheap form of energy. There are many options for creating efficient heating in your garage. We bring to your attention some of them. So, let’s make a stove for the garage with our own hands: a review of the 4 best homemade designs.

What are the requirements for garage stoves?

In most cases, the garage is not a very spacious room. This is especially felt when there is a car there. However, the car enthusiast spends quite a lot of time in this confined space. Based on this, the following requirements are imposed on the stove with which it is planned to equip this room:

• Its dimensions should be compact so that it does not interfere with the free passage of people and the entry of cars.
• The stove should operate on solid or liquid fuel, or better yet, on both types.
• The oven must be heated to operating temperature as quickly as possible.
• The oven must maintain the temperature in the garage for a long time.
• The design must be simple and easy to manufacture.
• The cost of materials cannot exceed reasonable limits.
• The stove should be practical, easy to maintain and easy to use in everyday use.
• The heating unit should not burn oxygen too much and release harmful substances into the garage.
• The materials surrounding the stove must be reliably protected from fire.

In our opinion, the following types of homemade stoves meet all these requirements: brick, metal potbelly stove, mining unit, long-burning stove. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Brick oven for garage

The use of refractory bricks to build a stove in a garage is not very common, since this option is quite labor-intensive. At the same time, a brick oven has a number of advantages and fully complies with the requirements. The dimensions of such a stove are small: it is enough to fold it over an area of ​​2x2.5 bricks. It runs on regular wood and maintains the temperature for a long time, since brick has excellent heat capacity. The cost of materials is low, and the risk of something igniting from such a furnace is minimal, since the brick is not able to heat up to a very high temperature.

However, this option also has disadvantages. First of all, this is the complexity of the structure. Not everyone knows how to handle bricks and do the laying correctly, not to mention the intricacies of the stove business. Therefore, to lay a brick stove, it is better to hire a stove builder who will take into account all the nuances. Another drawback is that the stove does not heat up to operating temperature very quickly compared to other options.

If you nevertheless decide to build the stove in the garage yourself, then for this purpose you need to use fireclay bricks. It is also recommended to add fireclay powder to the solution. A foundation is made of concrete under the furnace, on which the masonry is made. The length of the stove is 2.5 bricks, and the width is 2 bricks. If you want to make a stove for heating a container of water, then the length needs to be increased to 3.5 bricks. The height of the stove is usually 9 rows of bricks, after which a chimney is made. It can be made entirely of brick, like a shaft passing through the ceiling. Another option is a metal pipe with a diameter of 120 - 150 mm. In this case, you need to take care of proper fire protection of the floors and roof.

Potbelly stove - the simplest device for heating a garage

The simplest and most convenient option for a garage heating device is the well-known potbelly stove. This is a small metal stove. A potbelly stove is made from sheet metal or from an old barrel. Any large diameter pipe will do. In any case, the main criterion in choosing should be the thickness of the metal. It should not be less than 5 mm.

To make a potbelly stove you will need a grinder and a welding machine. To build a stove from sheet metal, it is cut using a grinder according to a template. In order for the size to be optimal for using full-fledged firewood, it is better to take the length of the parts 70 cm and the width 30 cm. A parallelepiped is welded from four elements of the indicated sizes. The back wall is welded into a 30x30 cm square, and in the front wall of the same size an opening for the firebox is cut out, 25x25 cm. For this opening, a door is made with a locking device and hung on hinges, which are secured by welding. Several holes are drilled in the door to create traction.

Legs from a channel or angle of the required length are welded from below, and a round hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut from above in the rear part. A piece of 110 mm pipe, 15–20 cm long, is welded on top of it. A chimney will be placed on it, which must be well insulated from the ceilings and roof. It can also be placed into a wall, but the angle of rotation should be no more than 30 degrees.

A more effective version of a potbelly stove is obtained if you install an ash pit and an ash pan in it. To do this, a small compartment is made in the lower part of the firebox, which is separated from the firebox by a grate or a homemade plate with slots. This compartment has a separate door through which ash can be removed.

Making a potbelly stove from a barrel or cutting a pipe is even easier. In the case of a barrel, you only need to arrange the door, chimney and legs. If you have a piece of pipe with a diameter of at least 300 mm, then you can make the back of the stove and the door from sheet metal. Everything else is constructed similarly to the previous options. Some craftsmen make good potbelly stoves from old gas cylinders. To cut them, you must first carefully drill a hole, pouring water on the drill. Then drain the condensate from the cylinder and fill it with water. Only after complete rinsing can you begin to cut the balloon with a grinder.

A potbelly stove has all the necessary qualities: it runs on wood or coal, heats up very quickly, is easy to manufacture and maintain, and costs practically nothing if made from waste material. The disadvantage is that it cools quite quickly when the wood burns. Due to the strong heat, the metal stove must be well insulated from the walls of the garage if they are wooden. To increase the efficiency of such a unit, you can weld perpendicular plates 5 cm wide to the surface of the potbelly stove. This will increase the heating area with a slight increase in dimensions.

Homemade waste oil stove

Firewood and coal are not always available to motorists at an affordable price. But used oil can be found in any garage. It’s good if you have friends at the nearest service station. Then there will be no problems with fuel for a homemade stove at all. A unit of this type is quite popular today, even despite its somewhat intricate design. However, anyone who knows how to use a welding machine and a grinder will make such a stove without much difficulty.

The principle of operation of such a unit is based on the fact that gaseous substances, when mixed with air, can burn and release a large amount of heat. The purpose of the furnace is to convert the fuel from a liquid state to a gaseous state and ignite the resulting gas mixture. To accomplish this task, the oven is made of two sections. The waste is poured into the lower one, in which it burns, releasing even more flammable gases. They rise to the second section, which looks like a pipe with holes for air intake. Upon contact with oxygen, they ignite and burn, releasing a colossal amount of heat, incomparable to any other type of furnace.

Such a liquid fuel stove is manufactured as follows. They take sheet iron and weld it into the lower part, which is the fuel tank. It is connected by a pipe, which has many holes with a diameter of 10 mm, to the upper chamber, where the exhaust gases burn out. It, in turn, is connected to the chimney, which must be strictly vertical. There is a hole in the fuel tank into which waste is poured and set on fire. This hole is closed with an adjustable flap. It is used to control the amount of incoming air, and, consequently, the intensity of combustion. If it is possible to make such a stove from a barrel or gas cylinder, then this is even more convenient.

Such a stove can operate on any liquid fuel, excluding light flammable substances such as gasoline, acetone or ether. The best fuels are: diesel oil, transmission oil, petroleum oil, transformer oil, as well as kerosene, diesel fuel, and fuel oil. Due to the high temperature of gas combustion and the presence of an open flame, such a stove must be handled with care. It must be installed rigidly to prevent it from accidentally tipping over, since burning liquid fuel spilled on the floor is unlikely to be quickly extinguished. Under no circumstances should such a stove be left unattended. The unit can be improved by constructing a device for drip feeding of waste into the tank.

Long burning wood stove

This is the most economical, efficient, but at the same time the most complex unit. The principle of its operation is based on the combustion of pyrolysis gases. They have very high combustion energy and produce large amounts of heat. Pyrolysis occurs as a result of slow smoldering of wood with limited access to oxygen. In this case, organic substances break down into solid and gaseous substances. The solids smolder, and the gas rises into the upper chamber and ignites, releasing a large amount of energy.

The advantage of such a furnace is its very high efficiency. One armful of firewood can keep the unit operating for 15 – 20 hours. In addition to firewood, such a stove can use any wood processing waste: sawdust, bark, knots. As a more expensive option: fuel briquettes, pallets and other modern solid fuels.

The main task in the manufacture of a long-burning stove is to create conditions in it that allow pyrolysis to be separated and ignited separately from the wood. Most often, a ready-made 200 liter metal barrel is used for this. The top of the barrel is cut off and a hole is made in it, into which a chimney with a diameter of at least 150 mm will enter. Another hole is cut with a diameter of 100 mm. A pipe will be inserted there for air supply. Then they make a heavy piston. To do this, a circle with a slightly smaller diameter than the barrel is cut out of sheet metal. A hole is cut in it for the air supply pipe and this pipe is welded. A couple of pieces of heavy channel are welded from below to the resulting piston. The piston together with the pipe is inserted into the barrel from above and the entire structure is closed with a lid so that the air pipe comes out into the hole prepared for it. They also make a damper on it to regulate the flow.

At the bottom of the barrel, holes are cut out for firewood supply hatches and an ash pan. They must close tightly to prevent air from entering there, since it must be supplied through a pipe in the piston. The entire structure is installed on a concrete foundation or brickwork.

To fill the stove with firewood, the piston must be lifted by the pipe to the upper position and fixed there. To do this, you can come up with some kind of clamps. The firebox is filled to capacity with firewood. Then the piston is lowered, pressing the wood with it. Ignition is carried out using any flammable liquid, except gasoline. When the wood burns well, the access of oxygen is limited. The released pyrolysis will enter the chamber above the piston and ignite there. They will burn, releasing a lot of heat, although the wood will only smolder.

When choosing an option for installing a stove in the garage, you must be guided by the principle of simplicity and economy. All proposed options meet these criteria and can be successfully accepted by car enthusiasts.

• stove in the garage

The easiest and most convenient way to heat a garage in winter is to install some kind of electric heater. Many motorists do this, but then they have to deal with electricity bills that are not comparable with the heat received due to the high tariff. On the other hand, a stove for a garage using wood or exhaust is not as comfortable to use, but it will certainly be cheaper. This material will outline how to save even more and make such a stove yourself.

Wood burning stove

There are very few requirements for such stoves:

• so that it generates heat well;
• was suitable for burning any wood;
• fit on the space allocated for her.

Since simple stoves for a garage do not particularly need aesthetics, home craftsmen usually weld them from whatever comes to hand or is found on scrap metal. So the shape of the body can be arbitrary; if you find a piece of a large pipe, the stove will be round; if you find some sheet metal, let’s make it rectangular. By and large, this does not matter much; the design itself is much more important.

The Internet is full of drawings of different stoves, but they are all derivatives of a traditional metal potbelly stove. The heater body can be oriented in a horizontal or vertical plane; this has almost no effect on operating efficiency. The fact is that a homemade vertical stove for the garage, made with your own hands, takes up less space. While long logs are placed in the horizontal one, it burns longer with one load. Choose which option you like best.

Traditional potbelly stoves do not have a grate; this stove is a hearth stove. The chimney is located in the rear part and is supplied from above, as shown in the drawing:

In a garage where flammable liquids and oils are stored, the absence of an ash pan is not the best option. When cleaning the hearth, hot coals may crumble, making the procedure inconvenient. For this reason, a simple wood-burning stove received grates, an ash pan and a door for cleaning, or even a drawer. As for the pipe, it is boiled in the usual place or on the back wall.

But the improved two-way potbelly stove has a pipe in the front part. The design of the furnace promotes increased heat transfer, since the flue gases inside it make two passes in different directions, intensively exchanging heat with the metal walls.

The last passage of gases ends at the front wall, which is why the pipe is in the front. Such a stove for a garage is very effective; it can be made according to the drawing presented above:

Increasing the exchange surface will further increase heat transfer. Craftsmen solved this issue long ago by welding ribs made of strip steel 4-5 mm thick to the body, as shown in the photo:

Without going into details and description of welding work, we will give some general recommendations:

• try to take thicker metal, if possible, 4-5 mm. Then the wood stove will last longer;
• when attaching the chimney from above, it is better to strengthen the wall; this joint burns out most often;
• external fins significantly improve heat exchange; they can be welded to any stove;
• You can install at least one partition inside, like a two-pass oven;
• It is better to make many small holes in the grate than large holes where unburnt coals will spill out.

Waste oil furnace

The simplest garage stove that runs on waste oil is well known to everyone. And, although its drawing is not difficult to find in RuNet, just in case we will present it again:

As you can see, such a heater is simple to manufacture, but there are some nuances during operation. The main enemy of such stoves is water, which, due to various circumstances, gets into the used oil. A very small amount of it causes strong pops in the perforated afterburner (a vertical pipe with holes), which can lead to a fire. It turns out that before use, the fuel must be settled to separate the water.

Important. Any furnace used for combustion, as well as for wood, requires a chimney with good draft for stable operation, so it is recommended to raise it to a height of at least 4 m.

The second drawback of the heater is the pungent odor during the ignition and warm-up stages. Otherwise, the use of the miracle stove, as it is called on specialized forums, does not cause any particular complaints. It heats up quite well. But on the same forums, craftsmen have long proposed a more reliable and efficient design. And not such a fire hazard. The principle by which such an oil stove operates is shown in the figure:

The fuel burns in a metal bowl located at the bottom of a vertical pipe (or gas cylinder). It is fed into the bowl in drops from a dosing device. Thanks to this scheme, if necessary, a liquid fuel stove can also burn diesel fuel; you just need to adjust the air supply and dosage. Some of the oil vapor burns out inside a vertical perforated pipe - an afterburner when secondary air is supplied. The furnace structure is shown in the drawing:

As a housing, you can use a thick-walled steel pipe or a propane cylinder. The range of the remaining metal is indicated in the drawing; we will not list it again. Instead, let’s focus on the method of air supply; it can be of two types:

• natural, due to chimney draft;
• forced pumping by a fan.

A homemade drip stove made from a pipe can also operate at low draft if there is no way to raise the chimney higher. This is facilitated by installing a fan that forces air inside the afterburner. Then, looking into the operating furnace from above, we can observe the following picture:

The method is considered more effective and quite reliable, tested by more than one garage owner. If desired, such a diesel stove is enclosed in a water jacket, turning into a hot water boiler. This will allow you to install radiator heating in the garage and significantly increase comfort during long stays indoors in winter. The warning for oil heaters is the same as for wood heaters: if there is a high-rise residential building in the immediate vicinity, you will have to return to the idea of ​​heating with electricity.

Self-installation of a stove in a garage must be carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, you need to ensure the operation of the heater, and secondly, take fire safety measures. As for the first point, it concerns the correct installation of the chimney, which must create normal draft. Here are the recommendations:

• pipe height - at least 4 m, counting from the grate;
• turns - no more than 3, avoid setting knees at 90º, try to use 45 or 30º;
• if there is a horizontal section, then its length is no more than 1 m;
• It is better to insulate the section of the pipe on the street with basalt wool to prevent the formation of condensation;
• Attach the chimney to the wall so that it does not load the body of the stove.

When installing a wood or oil stove yourself, follow fire safety requirements. Here is their list:

• Place a sheet of metal on the floors under the stove, protruding 1 m from the side of the door;
• combustible wall structures near the stove must be protected with metal or brick screens;
• when passing a wooden ceiling through the chimney, ensure a gap of 250 mm between it and the pipe, filling it with basalt fiber;
• in order to protect the flue from being blown in by the wind, install a deflector or a special nozzle on it;
• Natural supply and exhaust ventilation must function in the garage.

Conclusion

Compared to electric stove heating, garage heating is much more economical, and sometimes even more efficient. But the installation and operation of oil and solid fuel heaters has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. Making stoves with your own hands will not be very difficult for a person who has the necessary skills. As a last resort, you can entrust the production to a familiar craftsman, choosing a suitable design.

Solid fuel stoves running on wood have one serious drawback: it is very difficult to automate the combustion process, and for some designs it is impossible. From time to time you have to take a break from your work and add firewood, which burns out in about an hour. To extend the operating time of the furnace on one load, the furnaces are equipped with a long-burning mode.

Wood combustion is a complex physical and chemical process that occurs in several stages. When ignited, while the temperature in the stove is low, the wood heats up and darkens. At temperatures above 200 degrees, pyrolysis begins - decomposition under the influence of temperature into solid residues and pyrolysis gases. These gases themselves are flammable because they contain hydrogen, carbon monoxide, organic vapors and carbon in the form of soot. It is the combustion of pyrolysis gases that produces a bright flame with a high temperature.

In a conventional furnace, complete combustion of pyrolysis gases does not occur due to a lack of oxygen. In long-burning furnaces, a separate chamber or combustion chamber is intended for afterburning of pyrolysis gases, where they are enriched with atmospheric oxygen. Thanks to this, fuel is burned more completely, less soot and other harmful substances are released into the air, and the efficiency of the stove increases.

To avoid excessive temperature in the wood pre-combustion chamber, air access into it is limited. The firewood begins to smolder, releasing a large amount of pyrolysis gas. Due to the slow smoldering of firewood, the operating time of the stove on one load increases significantly, in some cases reaching 6-8 hours. This phenomenon is called the “long burning mode”.

Long-burning sawdust stove: video

Advantages and disadvantages of long-burning stoves

Like any other unit, such ovens have their pros and cons.

The undeniable advantages include:

• economical consumption of firewood;
• high efficiency, up to 85-90%;
• versatility in the choice of fuel, firewood, waste from woodworking enterprises, sawdust, and pellets are suitable;
• small sizes;
• ease of control - using an air damper;
• simplicity of design, thanks to which it is easy to make a long-burning stove with your own hands.

Long-burning stoves are not without their disadvantages:

• during combustion, condensate is released, on which soot is actively deposited in the chimney, therefore special requirements are imposed on the chimney design - it should not have corners, bends, its design should be as accessible as possible for cleaning;
• To switch to the long-burning mode, the stove must first be heated in the usual mode to warm up the stove itself and the chimney, otherwise the combustion process will stop.

All the described features of long-burning stoves are relevant both for industrial heating units and for home-made stoves.

You can increase efficiency by supplementing the stove, as shown in the video.

Design of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves have design features. They consist of two chambers or combustion zones, in one of which pyrolysis of wood occurs, and in the other, afterburning of wood gases occurs. The location of the cameras relative to each other may be different.

In some models, fuel is loaded from above; as a result of primary smoldering, the firewood compacts and settles, and gases enter the afterburning chamber, which can be located either below or through a partition on the side of the first chamber. Such stoves are often equipped with blower fans to direct the draft into the desired channel.

In other models, the pre-combustion chamber is located at the bottom, and the pyrolysis gases rise into the upper chamber without forced draft. Such stoves do not require a fan, but their loading chamber volume is usually smaller.

To regulate the combustion intensity, an air supply channel with a damper is provided. It can also have different shapes and depends on the type of stove. To compact the fuel and make smoldering more intense, some stoves are equipped with a weight that lowers as the wood burns. Usually they have this design.

Application of pyrolysis furnaces

Long-burning stoves using wood, pellets or sawdust are often used to heat utility rooms and workshops, garages, and greenhouses. They can also be used to heat a house, but it is necessary to ensure that the stove is sealed, as carbon monoxide may be released.