Homemade cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner: a guide to action. Making a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands: drawings and diagrams Do-it-yourself cyclone vacuum cleaner

Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that we have to deal with when working with wood is dust removal. Industrial equipment is quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it’s not difficult at all.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed?

In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to be able to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind debris different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if air flow passes through a cylindrical container with sufficient speed.

These types of filters are included in many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. A homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various types of machine tools. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference between wet and dry cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the the shortest route to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make the exhaust duct rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.

As already mentioned, a cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.

Most washing vacuum cleaners introduce air into the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

Made from scrap materials

The simplest and affordable option For the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.

The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the required diameter is to use a homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, preferably so that they are as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic are excellently scratched with such a homemade tool, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. Let us draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The elbow is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is first applied under the side.
2. WITH reverse side The rubber sealing ring is pulled tightly onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.

The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the socket is located on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with wet cleaning in mind, you should extend the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don’t forget about the O-rings; for a more reliable fixation and to prevent the knees from turning, you can wrap them with plumber’s tape.

How to adapt the device for machines and tools

To be able to draw in waste when using manual and stationary tools, you will need a system of adapters. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. As a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped in vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust extraction systems have very different configurations, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:

1. If the machine's dust extractor is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a 50 mm diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
2. To connect homemade machines to a dust catcher, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
3. When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, take advantage of the convection flow created by the tool's moving parts for greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
4. Sometimes it is necessary to provide dust suction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a router. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually, you don’t choose a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone yourself, but use the one that is available. However, there are a number of limitations beyond the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection with silicone sealant or plumbing tape, but usually the fit density is quite high. Especially if there is an o-ring.

The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop

To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly onto the pipe, it is recommended to warm it a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner. The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.

From the very beginning of working in the workshop I encountered the problem of removing dust after work. The only available way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop made the problem worse. Some solutions have been to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you; in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and also does not contribute to workplace hygiene. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some of it is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all nooks and crannies can be reached with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust.

In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust greatly exceeding the calculated values ​​will greatly affect the service life of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.

There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. I found an interesting solution on thematic forums - to use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a regular household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems with household vacuum cleaners can be solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to the standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some people assemble cyclone filters from traffic cones, others - from sewer pipes, the third - from plywood and everything that is enough for imagination. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.

The principle of operation is simple - the air flow swirls in a cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the influence of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of common problems in the operation of cyclones there is a so-called “carousel”. This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a flow rate of air created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. You need to reduce the speed a little and the “carousel” will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the “carousel” into the container and takes its place. And in the second model, plastic cyclones of this carousel practically do not exist. To eliminate air leaks, I coated the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.

I decided to get a larger dust collection container so that I would have to take out the trash less often. I bought a 127 liter barrel, apparently made in Samara - just the right size! I’m going to carry the barrel to the trash can like grandma’s string bag - on a different cart, so as not to strain myself.

Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collection unit permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them into Right place. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one unit.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to make the body of the installation from metal. Frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

When installed vertically, there is a risk of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this purpose, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The noticeable weight of the cart is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure was not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.

In order to achieve verticality of the rods, I had to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment, it was possible to achieve precise setting of the angles.

It is convenient to move the cart while holding the vertical bars, so I reinforced their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame using clamps.

At the top of the rods there is a platform for the vacuum cleaner. Next, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and the wooden planks will be secured using self-tapping screws.

Here, in fact, is the entire frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Safety glasses and a welding mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and are bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is completed. Besides, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.

I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in cold weather, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint has a hardener, don’t worry about it at all.
I found in the caches an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha back in the summer - . The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerite added a little regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began painting.
In the summer this paint dried in one hour. It’s hard to say how long it took to dry in the winter, but when I returned to the studio by the evening of the next day, the paint was dry. True, without the promised hammer effect. It's probably the degreaser that's to blame, not the freezing temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it’s not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is quite flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads may occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel needs to be strengthened. People have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, an additional stiffening frame for the filter is assembled. The designs are very varied, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this a little differently. I welded a holder for pipes of a suitable diameter onto one of the rods.

In this holder I clamp the hose, which bears all the twisting and jerking. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any loads. Now you can pull the unit directly behind you by the hose without fear of damaging anything.

I decided to secure the barrel with tightening straps. When I was choosing locks at a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter tie-down belt with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and the bare frog-type lock lying next to it cost me 180 rubles. Russian production would have cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology lies.

Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole in the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, not the entire barrel was compressed, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself out with a click.

At the top of the installation there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

As household vacuum cleaner purchased a bagless almost two-kilowatt monster. I was already thinking that this would be useful for me at home.
While buying a vacuum cleaner from an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. People sell used items without a guarantee, with a worn-out part of the resource, defects in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some popular items, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of posting of advertisements, this trade sometimes lasts for years. And as soon as you start haggling and name an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I finally found an excellent option for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 Watt, built-in cyclone filter (the second one in my system) and another fine filter.
To secure it, I couldn’t think of anything more elegant than pressing it with a tightening belt. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to get a little tricky with connecting the hoses. As a result, we have such a setup. And it works!

Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such things, people are choked with delight. I experienced something similar when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone wears street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it up only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

We managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom into the barrel. When the device is operating, thanks to the transparency of the filter, you can observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was a small amount of it and these were particularly light and volatile fractions.

I'm very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You could say I'm moving into a new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, determined only by the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be carried and pulled by the hose without fear of tearing out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still encountered the problem of a lack of rigidity of the barrel.
I purchased a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but it sucks like a beast - it sucks up stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and tears bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner collapsed a blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tightly wrapping the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, it's a shame. But it looks something like this:

On thematic forums they warn about this possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy a metal barrel instead of a plastic one. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not yield any results.
2. Assemble a box of the required size from 15 mm plywood yourself. This is more real.

The box was assembled using self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed using double-sided foam tape.

The cart had to be altered a little - the rear clamp had to be modified to fit a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a garbage bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). Old barrel didn't allow this.

The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out more.

It worked out well. Cute, functional, reliable. How I love.

Very often after repair and construction work A lot of debris and dust remains, which can only be removed with a powerful vacuum cleaner. Since an ordinary home appliance is not suitable for these purposes, a filter for which can be homemade is used. How to make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands so that the unit effectively copes with the removal of construction dust?

Those whose work is constantly associated with repairs, construction and carpentry are familiar firsthand with the problem of cleaning the room after completion of the actual work. Construction wood dust, crumbling plaster, tiny grains of polystyrene foam and drywall usually settle in a dense layer on all horizontal surfaces of the room. It is not always possible to wipe such a mess by hand or sweep it with a broom, because with a large area of ​​the room such cleaning will take for a long time. Wet cleaning is also often impractical: a mixture of water and thick dust is even more difficult to wipe off.

IN in this case optimal solution - using a vacuum cleaner. The standard vacuum cleaner that we are used to using in everyday life will not work. Firstly, due to the large amount of debris, the dust collector will instantly become clogged, and you will need to clean it at least once every 15-20 minutes. Secondly, the entry of large particles, such as splinters, sawdust or wood chips, can cause blockage or complete malfunction of the device.

A construction vacuum cleaner has a much higher efficiency than a household one. The features of its engine ensure long-term operation, and the presence of a long hose (3-4 m or more) allows you to clean a wide area.

However, industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are large in size, not very convenient to use, clean and move, and are not affordable for everyone. Therefore, many craftsmen increase the capabilities of a household vacuum cleaner by equipping it with a special cyclone filter. Such dust collectors can be purchased ready-made, or you can assemble your own version yourself.

We make a cyclone ourselves

On the World Wide Web you can find many detailed diagrams and drawings of cyclones. Let's give an example of making a simple filter that can be assembled at home, having necessary materials, patience and a little skill. To work you will need:

• Any oil filter for small debris (these can be purchased at auto supply stores).
• 20-25 liter container with a tightly screwed lid.
• Polypropylene elbow with 45° and 90° angles.
• The pipe is about a meter long.
• Corrugated hose 2 meters long.

1. Make a hole in the lid of the main container. The width of the hole is adjusted to the polypropylene elbow with an angle of 90°.
2. Seal existing cracks with sealant.
3. Make another hole on the side wall of the container and attach a 45° angle.
4. Connect the corrugated hose and the elbow using a pipe. Tilt the outlet hose towards the bottom so that the air with debris is directed along the required path.
5. The filter can be covered with material made of nylon or other permeable fabric with a fine mesh. This will prevent large particles from entering the filter.
6. Next, connect the elbow on the lid and the filter outlet.

Of course, this is only a brief and approximate scheme for creating a cyclone. We present to your attention a video that shows in detail and with a clear example how to make a filter from scrap materials.

We check the made filter for tightness, as well as for the quality of suction. Garbage should be collected at the bottom of the container or settle on the walls.

If everything is assembled correctly, suction will occur efficiently and at high speed.

The creator of the cyclone vacuum cleaner was physicist James Dyson. It was he who first developed a compact dust separator (or filter) operating on the principle of centrifugal force. He established a patent for his invention, the G-Force vacuum cleaner, in 1986. Later, in the early 90s, Dyson launched the “Dayson DC01” model, which entered the global market. What was the success of this technological innovation?

The cyclone filter is a unit of two chambers: external and internal. Under the influence of centrifugal force, all elements entering the vacuum cleaner (dust, debris, shavings, etc.) begin spiral. That is why the cyclone filter for a universal vacuum cleaner has the shape of a cone: the dust spins in it, as if in a funnel. In this case, large particles of debris settle in the first, outer chamber, and small ones remain on the inside. Thus, thoroughly cleaned air comes out of the vacuum cleaner through the upper hole.

Advantages of the filter:

1. There is no need for containers and disposable dust bags and their endless replacement.
2. Compactness.
3. Quiet operation.
4. If the filter housing is transparent, you can monitor its contamination.
5. High efficiency.

A vacuum cleaner with such a filter is quite versatile and is suitable for both home use and industrial premises.

By building a cyclone filter with your own hands, you can easily make and.

If large and relatively large pieces of construction waste are easily transferred from the floor to bags, then construction dust is the scourge of repairs.

We turn our attention to the offers on the vacuum cleaner market: from 6,000 rubles.

Hmm, since it is not yet known whether there will be more orders for repairs after this is completed, the investment in a vacuum cleaner may not pay off. We turn our attention to homemade products. Let's Google. The principle of a cyclone filter has been known for a long time, we are studying the best practices of making it ourselves. There are very good designs, but they are difficult to manufacture. Still, you need a vacuum cleaner quickly, there is no time for a long fuss with it. But The general trend clear: standard vacuum cleaner + car filter + barrel. In the bins there is a quite decent copy of a vacuum cleaner (priceless) Air filter from Gazelle is bought at auto parts (180 rubles) The barrel is taken from a construction supermarket (I had to run around to different ones to find the right one and at a reasonable price. 500 rubles)

After purchasing the barrel I understand that it is essentially square. Even if the corners are rounded, you may not get a classic cyclone. Okay, I'll rely on a filter from Gazelle.

We can start. The hole in the lid has already been drilled, and pipes of the required diameters have also been found.

First I figure out how to attach the filter to the lid. A very lucky hole in it gives me the idea to use it. Firstly, a quick-release mount, and secondly, it still had to be covered with something. I cut out petals from tin (here Mercedes should pay some money for advertising)

And I make such a central screed.

The filter is on.

First fitting of the layout.

A piece of pipe tangentially and slightly downwards. This is the last time we see such a clean barrel.

Filter housing. The shape repeats the expected flow of sandblasting (by the way, this is a topic, I should hang some part here and see if it can be sanded). It is necessary so that the dust does not immediately crash into the filter.

Guess what's on the filter?

Pioneers advise placing a woman's stocking over the filter to prevent large pieces of dirt from clogging the filter. The filter diameter is, however, too large. I barely pulled it on and tore it. In short, it works only partially.

The first test runs showed that the barrel does not have enough rigidity, the suction force is greater and therefore the barrel distorts, especially when the flow of dirt is dense. The sides need to be strengthened.

I thought about it and realized that building the shell inside is difficult and will worsen the already not ideal aerodynamics inside. That's why I make the shell from the outside. 25mm strip bent on my bending machine. Consists of two halves - for ease of installation. Attached from the inside with screws with large washers.

There is less messing around.

4 swivel wheels are attached to the frame (we had them lying around at the dacha).

And the final marriage of components.

A clever quick-release system for fastening the barrel with ropes. This is the best thing that came to mind.

And of course the product needs a name. Whatever you call it, it will float.

My DIY construction vacuum cleaner is called “Veterok-M”.

Handsome!

And it works like a beast. Already working hard at the site.

The cost of the product is 680 rubles + several working hours. If you don’t have a vacuum cleaner lying around, then the budget will increase by 1000 rubles (this is how lucky you are with buying a used one). But in any case, it’s much better (by an order of magnitude) than the ready-made vacuum cleaners sold. Another blow to the global corporations in the gut!