Movable table for wood milling machine. How to make a table for a router with your own hands? DIY milling machine

Due to their affordable price, hand routers are popular among home carpenters. However, working on a simple workbench according to the principle: fixed workpiece, moving tool, is inconvenient and dangerous.

The industry produces tables for carpentry work, on which you can install a plane, circular saw, or router.

The device is reliable and convenient, but its cost is comparable to a power tool. Therefore, many craftsmen make such workbenches with their own hands. Since the presence of a tool makes it possible to make a table for a router with high quality, such homemade products look and function no worse than factory ones.

The general principle of the design is as follows: a smooth tabletop is made of hard material (so that it does not wear out so quickly), on which the base plate of the router is attached. The instrument itself is placed upside down. A guide for the workpiece being processed is fixed on the working surface.

Bench-type workbench

The most simple design, which does not require free space. It can be stored at home in disassembled form, and installed on any table if necessary to get the job done. The advantage is compactness. Disadvantages: low stability, and limitations on the size of the processed parts.

This is a full-fledged workbench without legs. Dimensions allow processing of any workpieces with high precision. At the same time, it is convenient to store the table in a vertical position. However, an installation site is required to make it operational. The device cannot be installed on a regular table - the router suspended from below will interfere. Typically, the workbench is temporarily placed on an extendable table, or the tabletop is removed and the panel is placed on a frame with legs.

To save space, another option is suitable: the workbench is mounted on one side on the wall, with folding supports underneath it.

Separate table for router

The design can combine several functions: a workbench, a chest of drawers for storing tools and materials, and the milling table itself.

The advantages are obvious: versatility, stability, safety. There is only one drawback: a permanently allocated space is required. Therefore, this option is only suitable for a workshop; you cannot place a workbench on a loggia.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands?

For example, consider a full-fledged workbench with a chest of drawers for placing equipment. Of course, before starting work, you need to sketch out a drawing (according to the dimensions of your hand router) and make a list of materials:

• Boards or wooden blocks for making a frame.
• Chipboard sheets or solid wood panels for side panels and drawers.
• Hardboard sheet (fibreboard), or thin plywood for partitions.
• Two sheets of plywood 18-25 mm thick, or a finished kitchen countertop.
• Screws, bolts, confirmat, steel angles for assembly.
• Measuring tools: tape measure, ruler, angle.
• PVA glue.

Woodworking tool: Circular Saw, drill, plane, keys, screwdrivers.

Cooking load-bearing structure beds. Before tightening the screws, coat all connections with glue.

We assemble the frame on a flat surface. We check the geometry: everything should be parallel and perpendicular.

We install partitions (they will act as stiffeners) and assemble the box for the router. The box is needed to prevent shavings and sawdust from being scattered around the room. In the future, the socket of a construction vacuum cleaner can be adapted to it to remove debris.

We install the main element - the working plane. It can be made from two sheets of plywood by gluing them together. To prevent vibrations, the thickness of the table should be at least 5 cm.

You can use a ready-made kitchen surface (available in furniture stores). The main thing that upper layer was strong and smooth.

A steel plate is installed on the tabletop, flush with the surface, to secure the router base plate. Also, it is advisable to embed profiles into the table to fix the guides.

It is advisable to fill all free niches with boxes in which equipment and devices for fixing workpieces will be stored. Some boxes are replaced with stands for cutters: holes are drilled in the thick bottom of the board according to the diameter of the shanks, and the cutters will not touch each other.

To ensure safety, it is advisable to install a safety cover in the working area, as on industrial models.

A cutter sticking out of a table is a serious danger. If your hand slips from the workpiece, you may get injured. Another way to ensure safe work is a foot pedal switch. A simple circuit is assembled: a socket is installed between the power cord of the electric router and the common network cable, which is turned off with a pedal. Approaching the workbench, you press the pedal and the motor turns on. After completion of work, or emergency situation– the foot is removed from the pedal and the router stops.

The finished table looks aesthetically pleasing and allows you to properly organize your work area, even in limited space.

Lift for hand router

In normal operation, the operator of a manual milling machine lowers the shaft with the cutter using the tool handles. It's about about using the device without a machine. When the router is suspended upside down from the tabletop, the router is in what is called parking mode. A mechanism is required to lift the machine into the working position.

If there are several options:

• Fixing screw rod. Using a threaded rod, the required penetration depth of the cutter is set. If necessary, it can be changed.

• Lever mechanism. Allows you to more quickly change the height of the tool, even during operation. Expands the capabilities of the machine: in a sense, the router becomes three-dimensional.

• Helical trapezoid. Many craftsmen use a regular car jack as a lift. You raise the cutter strictly to the required height. It is convenient, and the position fixation is quite accurate.

The considered option includes all the nuances of manufacturing a table for a router. You can use the method 100%, or adopt only the necessary technologies.

Using a router table, you can perform professional woodworking. Joints, end profiling, door and window frames, skirting boards, photo and painting frames are made neatly and conveniently on the table. A factory-made table can cost a pretty penny if its quality is dubious. Why not make it yourself? Moreover, the design is not at all complicated; further drawings will be analyzed in detail.

Main parts of the milling table

There are many options for milling tables. As a rule, craftsmen create unique drawings to suit their needs. But the basic design is the same regardless of the size of the machine. Here is a table 90 x 48 x 30 cm, the table top and supports are made of plywood No. 27, the legs of the workbench are welded from angle steel.

The main elements of a table for a manual router, the quality and design of which will determine the ease of use and functionality.

Table type

First you need to decide on the type of future machine:

• stationary;
• portable;
• aggregate.

If you plan to work on location, a drawing of a small portable structure will do. At permanent job A reliable and powerful stationary table will be convenient in the workshop. It can be installed on wheels and moved around the room. And for a small workshop, the modular option is good; it is an extension of the tabletop of the sawing machine or its rotary version.

Cover material

The most practical tabletops are made of chipboard covered with thin plastic or MDF with a melamine layer. This material is very easy to cut with a jigsaw, and it will last a long time.

Pressed countertops are not suitable for working in damp rooms or outdoors! To prevent them from swelling, all edges will have to be carefully processed and sealed.

Homemade countertops made from plastic sheets are very good. They are smooth, even, and easy to process. This machine can be used in any conditions.

Metal countertops are more difficult to make and are heavy. And aluminum sheets must be additionally clad - covered with a layer that prevents contamination of parts.

Groove for stop

Typically, a milling table is used for processing longitudinal edges. To be able to process the transverse ends when creating homemade machine it is necessary to provide a movable stop that moves in the groove. The built-in groove is also used for attaching clamping devices.

Fixing the router

There are two options for attaching a manual router to the table:

• directly to the bottom surface of the tabletop;
• to the removable mounting platform.

When doing this, they often use the first method, as it is simpler. But the mounting plate equipment has several advantages in operation:

• frees up to 1 cm of the processing depth of the part;
• The router is easier to remove to replace cutters.

Therefore, we recommend that you tinker a little longer and equip the mounting plate. It must be flush with the surface of the countertop, otherwise the workpiece will touch the protrusions. Even more convenience is provided by a lift for the cutter, the design of which will be discussed in detail below.

Longitudinal stop

It serves as a guide for the part, so it must be level. You can make a stop with a T-slot into which clamping devices and other devices are inserted to make work easier.

Homemade table

The most primitive drawing homemade table for a router - this is an MDF tabletop, in which a hole is made for the router to pass through and a guide ruler is attached - an evenly planed board. This tabletop can be placed between two workbenches or installed on its own legs. Its advantages are the simplest and quickly manufactured design. Such a device is unlikely to allow you to carry out serious woodworking. Let's consider more functional options, including a rotary one.

Small router table

A tabletop model for a hand router, which you can make yourself in a few evenings. Lightweight construction and mobile, fits on a shelf, takes up little space, and its drawings are simple.

• The working surface and side racks are made of thick laminated plywood No. 15. The size of the table top is 40 x 60 cm, the height without the corner stop is 35 cm, the height of the stop is 10 cm. Three grooves are selected in the surface of the work table for installing rails. Various auxiliary devices are installed here and moved along the tabletop.
• To make the structure stable, the legs are made of chipboard or MDF No. 22. The legs are placed with a slight indentation, leaving a little space for attaching templates and clamps using clamps.
• To cover the mechanism, a front panel made of plywood or chipboard is installed below.
• The side stop has grooves along which it moves. Stops in in the right place using bolts and wing nuts. The emphasis can be dismantled and any convenient device can be installed in the free space.
• A pipe is connected to the stop to remove chips that are released in abundance during operation. The chip drains of the router and the table are connected through plastic corrugations from the sewer siphons by a splitter for the water supply. A hose from the household vacuum cleaner. It turns out very efficient system removal of chips, they practically do not fly around the room.
• Since the machine is designed for manual frezer, no special on/off switch is required.
• The stop consists of two parts, which are moved closer or further depending on the diameter of the working body. A wing nut is provided to secure the sash. The good thing about the proposed model is that the tool can be easily removed from the frame to replace the cutters.
• The mounting platform for the router is made of textolite or plexiglass. The plastic platform from the router kit is first dismantled. The recesses for the mounting area are selected with a router, and the hole is cut with a jigsaw. When the hole is ready, the plexiglass is adjusted to its size and shape. It should fit tightly and without protrusions into the window.

You can make several mounting platforms of the same size with holes for different cutter diameters.

This option is convenient for small hand tools. If a stationary table is being made for a large router, insert rings for different cutter diameters are attached to one mounting platform.

To ensure that the workpiece moves smoothly, motion stoppers are installed on the side stop. Clamps are also attached to the side stop, which hold the part near the cutter during operation. Additional convenience is provided by the slide, along which the workpiece moves at a right angle. And to make the work safe, pushers are manufactured.

The table is ready for use; its drawback is the lack of adjustment of the processing depth. This is done manually by pressing on the tool. It is impossible to “get” to the desired depth the first time. Therefore, we recommend equipping the table with a lift.

You need to make a hole in the frame into which an adjusting bolt with a wing nut is inserted. The depth of milling is smoothly changed by twisting the lamb.

Some craftsmen adapt them to fit old car jacks. The device is attached under the router; a hole is made in the side wall to bring the jack handle out. The jack handle can be bent at the desired angle; when rotated, the router smoothly moves up and down in 2 mm increments.

Another model of a homemade milling table for a router in the video:

Examples of milling table designs and their drawings

Design 1

2. Glue the right leg WITH to the support B (Fig. 1) and additionally secure with screws. Set the assembly aside. Cut out the kings I. Then make cutouts in the middle support for the drawers. How to carefully make such cuts is described in “”.

3. Using the middle support cutouts IN, mark the width of the upper dividing shelf F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and file it down (photo B).

FOR A PRECISION FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Place the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, aligning the edges. Using the cutout as a template, mark the width of the front.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the cutout and mark its width by placing a mark at the opposite cutout.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support IN, aligning its bottom side with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). When the glue is dry, glue the bottom shelf in place. G.

Cut out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, using them to level the lower shelf, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows you to make countersunk mounting and pilot holes in one operation without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and guide holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled unit B/F/G and additionally secure with screws (photoD).

Quick tip! Using glue and screws, you can fasten several parts of the base at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait for the glue to completely dry before attaching the next piece. Cut out the back wall J and, having tried it on the opening, make sure that the upper edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support IN. Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the drawer in place I, fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then secure the last support with glue and screws IN. When the glue is dry, mark the exact length of the top bar N (photoF) and glue the part in place (Fig. 1).

Glue the drawers I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To ensure that the drawers I are parallel to each other along their entire length, mark the exact length of the top strip H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right support with the leg again B/C and attach to the assembled left side of the base B/D/F-J using glue and screws (Fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports IN slats E, fixing them with clamps. Using a sanding block, make a rounding with a radius of 3 mm on the upper outer edge of the left strip.

Milling table drawings

It is difficult to achieve accuracy when measuring and marking out project details using a tape measure and ruler, especially if the actual thickness of the plywood differs from the nominal thickness. Instead, for accuracy, it is better to use the parts themselves or scraps of material for dimensional adjustment of machines. To make precise cuts for frame I in middle support B, follow this method.

To adjust the width of the cut, make a cut in the plywood scrap, lifting the disc so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When adjusting the cutting depth, measure the distance from the fence to the outside of the saw blade teeth.

Attach a wooden plate to the head of the cross (angular) stop and cut a cutout into the part in several passes. The longitudinal stop serves as a limiter during the last pass.

Tackle the lid

1. Take the previously cut cover A and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. Using a hole saw, make a 38mm hole in the center of the lid (photoG).

Use clamps to secure cover A to the workbench, placing a board underneath to prevent chipping. Drill a hole in the center of the cover for the cutter.

Place the plastic router foot pad on cover A and center it so that the power tool controls are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic cover from the base of the router that you are going to install in the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover (photo N). Drill holes and countersink them.

3. Cut out the cover strips TO. Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the strips (Fig. 2). Drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid A and secure with clamps.

Secure both K-planks to the workbench by stacking them and placing a board underneath to prevent chipping.

Drill a 5mm hole through the axial hole. Then make a 6mm hole on the right. The depth of the holes must correspond to the length of the fastener.

4.Put the lid A/K onto the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the end of the strip E, focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes in the top bar TO drill a 5mm diameter hole for the axle screw and a 6mm diameter hole for the right locking screw (Fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a 6x35 mm cap screw into the axial hole. Lift the cover and drill a 6mm hole through the left locking hole for the locking screw that secures the cover in the raised position.

Add a rip fence

1. Cut out the front wall and base of the stop L. Mark identical semicircular cutouts (Fig. 3). Then, as described in the Master's Tip, carefully cut them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out the spacers M and clamps N. Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue dries, place the stop L/L on assembled clamps M/N, align the parts and drill through holes with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 3, photoL).

Using a board to prevent chipping, align the L/L stop over the assembled M/N clamps. After securing all parts with clamps, drill a through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Set the crosscut gauge to 45° and cut two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the angle to 90° again to cut two more gussets.

3. Cut out triangular gussets from a plywood strip measuring 19x76x305 mm O (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (Fig. 3).

Make durable boxes

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut two blanks measuring 100 × 254 mm for the front and rear walls R. Cut out two back walls from one piece and set them aside. On the second piece, mark the cutouts for the front walls. (Fig. 4) and carefully cut them out (see “Tip of the Master” below) before dividing the workpiece into two front walls.

Quick tip! Make the cutouts more convenient before you start cutting out the front walls, so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest against the clamps pressing the workpiece.

Method for cutting sharp bends with a jigsaw

Even if you install a file with the smallest teeth in a jigsaw, it is not easy to make neat cuts with a small radius, since the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up, and burns occur.

Try this method: before cutting along the contour, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo on the right. Then cut out the cutout, holding the file slightly indented from the contour line. As the saw moves forward, the small pieces created by the straight cuts will fall out one by one, without impeding the movement of the file and giving room for maneuver if the path needs to be slightly changed. Sand the edges of the cutout to the contour line using a trim plastic pipe, wrapped in sandpaper.

2. Cut out the side walls from 12mm plywood Q and bottoms R. Set these details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover A. If the original soleplate screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert a 12 mm wide fold cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Route 12x12mm folds along three sides of the front and back walls R. Replace the cutter and make roundings with a radius of 3 mm on the edges of the semicircular cutouts of the front walls.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts and securing them with clamps (Fig. 5). Make swivel locks from scrap 6mm plywood S and sand the rounded corners with a radius of 6 mm. Drill counterbored mounting holes and attach latches to the leading edge of the middle support B (Fig. 1). Now insert the drawers, fill them with the bit boxes and you can start routing.

A milling table can significantly increase work efficiency and productivity. There are many models available for sale for a wide variety of hand routers. However, the price of finished products is very high. It is much more profitable and interesting to assemble the table with your own hands. You don’t need any expensive materials or difficult-to-use tools for this.

General information about the design of the milling table

The milling table can be installed on a workbench or on a specially assembled separate table. The product must have a rigid structure and good stability, because During operation, a very noticeable vibration will be created. Be sure to take into account the fact that the router will be installed from below the countertop and absolutely nothing should interfere with it. No additional elements are installed there.

The design of a homemade table includes a mounting plate, due to which the router will be attached directly to the table. Use durable material to create the plate High Quality: plywood, textolite, sheet metal, etc.

A recess is created on top of the tabletop for the plate. The plate itself is fixed using self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The router is secured with screws with the same hidden head. Additional fixation of the plate can be done using clamps.

To conveniently turn on the router, a button is attached to the table. Additionally, it is recommended to install an emergency shutdown button of the mushroom type. If you have to work with large workpieces, equip the table with upper clamping devices. For even greater convenience and accuracy, the table is equipped with a ruler.

For self-assembly For a router table you will need the following tools:

1. Electric jigsaw. If you don't have one, you can get by with a hacksaw.
2. Plane. Preferably electric.
3. Chisel.
4. Sander. If you don’t have it, you can get by with a block of sandpaper, but processing with them will require more time and effort.
5. A screwdriver or drill with a screwdriver function.
6. Electric drill with a set of drills.

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Initial stage of table assembly

Explore your workshop and choose a location to install your future router table. Determine the most suitable product design. Tables are:

1. Aggregate. At their core, they are a side extension of a standard saw table.
2. Portable. A very convenient and ergonomic desktop option.
3. Stationary. It is installed separately and assembled specifically for the router.

If your router table will be used infrequently, or you have to work outside the workshop, opt for a portable option. If you have enough space, create a separate table. For greater convenience, it can be equipped with wheels, which will allow you to “move” to another place if necessary.

You can assemble a small structure and install it on an ordinary table. You can take a chipboard of a suitable size and install a guide on it. Guide in in this case is a board of relatively small thickness, secured with bolts.

Take 2 clamps. Make a hole for the cutter. This will complete the main work. However, if the machine is your main working tool, you need to approach the process more thoroughly and create a comfortable and reliable table at which you will feel comfortable spending time.

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Preparing the bed and tabletop

The bed is the stationary part of any milling table. At its core, it is a frame on supports with a table top on top. The material of the frame is not particularly important. Suitable for wood, metal, chipboard, MDF. The main thing is to ensure the required rigidity and maximum stability. The dimensions of the bed are also not critical. Select them taking into account the size of materials you most often have to process.

The lower part of the bed should be deepened by 10-20 cm in relation to the front overhang of the tabletop. Dimensions, as already noted, select to suit your needs. For example, to process the ends of facade blanks and door trims, you can make a bed 150 cm wide, 90 cm high, 50 cm deep.

A very important characteristic in this case is height. The optimal value is 85-90 cm. It’s good if you can equip the bed with adjustable supports. They will allow you to compensate for uneven floor surfaces and change the height of the milling table if the need arises.

To make a homemade table, you can take an ordinary kitchen countertop made of chipboard. A 26 or 36 mm thick plate with a wear-resistant plastic coating is used. Thanks to the plastic, the workpiece will slide well on the tabletop, and the chipboard will take on the task of dampening vibration. As a last resort, you can use laminated chipboard or MDF with a thickness of at least 16 mm.

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What do you need to know about the mounting plate?

A mounting plate must be fixed near the place where the router sole is attached. The best material is considered to be durable and at the same time thin. Most often used sheet metal. A more convenient and equally durable option is textolite (fiberglass). Usually this is a rectangular plate 4-8 mm thick. It is necessary to prepare a hole in the center of such a plate. Its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the hole in the base of the router.

The base of the router, as a rule, is equipped with standard threaded holes necessary for attaching the plastic lining. Thanks to these holes, the router is fixed to the mounting plate. If there are no holes initially, make them yourself. You can use another method of attaching the router, for example, with metal clamps. Holes for securing the plate are created closer to its corners.

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Step-by-step instructions for assembling the table

First you need to secure the tabletop to the finished frame. A plate is placed on a pre-selected location on the tabletop. Take a pencil and trace its contours. Next, you need to take a hand router with a 6-10 mm cutter and select a seat for the mounting plate in the countertop. It should lie flush, i.e. create a perfectly flat surface with the tabletop, as if it were a single whole.

The seat should have slightly rounded corners. You can round them using a file. After adding the mounting plate, take a cutter with a thickness slightly greater than the thickness of the tabletop, and make through holes in the tabletop exactly according to the shape of the router sole. You don’t have to try too hard; perfect accuracy is not required at this stage. At the bottom of the tabletop you need to make an additional cut for the dust collector casing and other accessories that you plan to equip your milling table with.

The work is almost complete, you just need to assemble everything into a single product. Place the router from underneath and screw it to the plate. Secure the plate to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. The screw caps must be recessed, otherwise they will interfere with the work process. Finally screw the tabletop to the frame.

In order to increase convenience and safety, you can equip the design with an upper pressure roller device. This addition will be especially useful when processing large workpieces, such as door trims. The design of the clamp does not have any complex elements, so you can make and install it yourself without any problems.

A ball bearing of the required size can be used as a roller. The bearing is installed in a holding fixture. The device itself must be firmly fixed at the required distance from the surface of your countertop. This way you will ensure constant tight pressure of the workpiece being processed to the surface of the tabletop as the product passes under the roller. Thanks to this, the accuracy and safety of the work performed will be increased.

The presence of a milling machine will greatly simplify the process and accuracy of product processing. It can be purchased ready-made in a specialized store, or you can save your own savings and make a table with your own hands.

With this device you can cut not only different breeds trees, but also plastic, wood boards. You can also use it to independently make profile cuts, grooves, tenons and slots.

With a DIY router table, you can equip your workshop with a practical woodworking machine. All that is required for effective work is to attach the manual router itself to the product.

Type designs, the milling table can be:

• mounted. This option quite practical and easy to use. To do this, a separate unit block is attached to sawing machine on the clamps on the side. This design allows you to save space. If necessary, it can be easily and quickly removed and left aside;
• portable. This option is in great demand, especially if the workshop small sizes. Also, this type of design is suitable for those who often change their place of residence or take a router with them to construction sites;
• stationary. This option is suitable for a spacious workshop. This is a very convenient model. Since with a stationary product you can equip a well-thought-out workplace.

Material

To make a milling table, you can use various materials:

Each individual option has its own advantages. Wood is characterized by high strength, reliability and durability. But you need to know how to work with this material. It is more difficult to give in manual processing, unlike DPP or MDF. And natural wood is much more expensive.

As for chipboard and MDF, these materials are more affordable in terms of price. They can be easily processed with hand and electric tools and have good technical characteristics.

Drawing of a homemade wood milling table

Before you start making a milling table, you need to make a drawing. It indicates the exact dimensions of each individual element and materials of manufacture. As for making the drawing, you can make it yourself, you can use special programs on the computer or, order from a furniture company. The last option is the most reliable. Since the specialists will make a competent calculation of all the details, with an accuracy of one millimeter.

Tools

For the manufacture of homemade design router table you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• electric jigsaw;
• sanding machine or sandpaper;
• drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Advice: Using power tools will greatly speed up the process of making and assembling the product.

From materials you will need:

• Chipboard or MDF. To avoid sagging during work, you should choose lumber with a cross-section of 3.6 cm. For the side parts, chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm is suitable;
• plywood, textolite, metal (production of mounting plate);
• The router is purchased at a specialized store.

An easy way to make a table for a hand router

Making a countertop

First you need to prepare the parts for the table. They are cut with a jigsaw from selected lumber, according to the drawing.

Advice: detailing can be ordered from a specialized furniture company. Here they will help you immediately create a competent drawing and select lumber. The cost of the furniture company's services is fully justified by the quality and accuracy of the work. All you need next is to simply assemble the product according to the diagram in your workshop.

The manufacturing process of a milling table is carried out in the following sequence:

Important: whether to do it for the table design or not is everyone’s personal choice. The table top with the router installed can simply be secured between two tables.

How to make and install a plate yourself

Since the table top of a homemade milling table is quite thick, the mounting plate should have a small thickness. Then you can make maximum use of the cutting tool reach.

Attention: a plate with a minimum thickness should be as strong and rigid as possible.

It can be made of metal or of a material that is in no way inferior in strength, for example, PCB. The thickness of the PCB should vary between 4-8 mm.

The plate manufacturing process is as follows:

1. After checking the drawing, cut out a rectangular piece from a sheet of textolite.
2. In the center of a rectangular piece make a hole. Its dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the hole in the router sole.
3. We connect the plate with the router base and the table.
4. For fixing plates to the tabletop making clamps for the machine, which are located at the four corners. These dimensions must strictly correspond to the holes located on the tool itself.

Work area equipment

After manufacturing and assembling the milling table, it is recommended to think over a competent working area. To maintain the accuracy of milling processing, it is worth installing on the tabletop:

• guides. They can be made from chipboard or from the same materials as the countertop. The guides are installed at right angles and fastened with four oblique stops.
• clamps. They can be made in the form of a wooden comb or from a ball bearing of the required size and weight.

Finishing

After constructing a milling table with your own hands, to give the product an aesthetic appearance and to extend its service life, you need all the working surfaces:

• polish;
• polish;
• bottom and sides - paint;
• open with varnish.

The electrical part of the product must be covered with a metal sleeve.

Photo

The result of your work may be a table that looks like one of the following

Useful video

A detailed description of the manufacturing process can be seen in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it is worth noting that the process of manufacturing a milling table is a rather responsible process. If you are confident that you can handle this task, you can save your own savings and make the product yourself. To do this you will need: stock up on a well-designed drawing, necessary materials and tools and free time.

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