Installation of a built-in lamp in a suspended ceiling. DIY installation and connection of the lamp

The use of ceiling and wall lamps allows you to abandon old-fashioned and not always practical chandeliers. Especially if the ceiling height of the apartment does not exceed the standard 2.5 m. Wall and ceiling lighting devices allow you to change and enhance the interior of your home quite effectively and without radical alterations. All that’s left to do is choose a suitable design and decide how to install and connect the lamp yourself. The task of installing household lighting devices does not pose a particular problem; it is enough to know the basic installation techniques and be careful when working with electrical wiring.

Lamp installation options

There are several main types of lighting fixtures used at home. From a huge number of models, several basic options can be distinguished, differing in the design of the lamp shade and the method of attachment to the load-bearing surface of the wall or ceiling:

• Ceiling lamps, usually in the form of ceiling or box-shaped structures;
• Wall sconces and ceiling lighting systems for universal purposes, used for local illumination of a designated small area;
• LED point devices, built-in and wall-mounted.

Modern lamps, regardless of the light source used, are conventionally divided into two types of devices - built-in and wall-mounted. Each of them has its own characteristics and conditions. The first type is also called hidden due to the fact that to install such a device you will need to make a special niche in the wall or ceiling. It does not have a body, only a supporting frame and an outer front panel.

The second type of lamp is designed in the form of a single body, on which there are brackets with which the device is installed on a wall or ceiling.

Important! The method of installing and connecting the lamp to the wiring directly depends on the mounting design of the lighting device.

The greater the weight of the lighting structure, the more difficult it is to fix it on a vertical wall and even more so on a ceiling surface.

It is clear that the installation location and the specific type of lamp are selected at the interior planning stage. All elements used to connect and install lighting devices are usually hidden under the decorative cladding of walls or ceilings, so the installation process begins long before finishing work.

Preparation for installation and connection of the lamp

The main part of the work on installing and connecting the lamp will need to be done before the wallpaper is hung and decorative plaster is laid. First of all, you will need to perform several preparatory steps:

• Select the correct location for installing the lamp. The installation point is chosen in proportion to the weight of the lighting device, its dimensions and planned functions;
• Plan and cut a channel in the wall for laying electrical wiring from the junction box to the installation site of the switch and lamp.

The easiest way is to drill a channel from the box to the connection point for the sconce in a brick or plaster-block wall using a hammer drill. In extreme cases, the mounting groove for laying and connecting electrical wiring can be knocked out in a couple of hours with a chisel and hammer.

The situation is a little more complicated with concrete slabs. In this case, the channel to the installation site of the lamp will need to be cut with a grinder, or the harness will need to be hidden under the baseboard, and the vertical sections of wires to the connection point will need to be covered with decorative covers.

Advice! When laying wiring to the connection point of the lamp, use traditional marking methods with laying and turning the harness at right angles and strictly along the horizon line.

If the walls and ceiling are supposed to be lined with plasterboard slabs, the wiring from the box to the connection point for the lighting fixtures will need to be laid in advance. Typically, the harnesses are wrapped in a corrugated hose and tied to the supporting profile in the space behind the slabs. At the location where the body of the sconce or lamp is installed, a hole is cut out in the plasterboard board through which the harness is led out for connection to the internal wiring of the device.

Installing wall lamps

Depending on the connection diagram used, home lamps are conventionally divided into two categories - with a toggle switch built into the housing and an external additional switch. The first type of lighting fixtures is usually used to illuminate the comfort zone. Usually these are wall structures in the form of wall sconces or ceiling lamps mounted into furniture, located at arm's length from the place of rest or sleep.

The second type is used to illuminate corridors, kitchens, storage rooms - any auxiliary room where it is necessary to illuminate the space for a short period of time, and that’s all. The connection of such lamps must be carried out in pairs with a remote switch located on the wall next to the entrance to the room.

Installation of a wall lamp

The installation of a wall lamp always begins by marking the housing mounting points. The body is applied to the wall and leveled horizontally using a building level, after which you need to trace the outline of the back wall using a simple pencil.

Traditionally, wall lights are attached to the wall surface in one of two ways:

• Using dowels with a threaded head. In this case, the body is attached to threaded dowels driven into the wall using a pair of nuts designed as decorative elements. Installation of a light lamp is allowed on wooden and plastic boards, drywall or even plaster;
• To install more massive structures, use a transitional mount in the form of a bracket or support bar. First you need to mark the points for installing plugs in the wall along the holes in the device. The transition mount is leveled and fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels. Only after this can the lamp housing be installed.

The heaviest lampshades are installed on the wall using dowels. In this case, the role of the transition mount is played by the metal rear wall. On its surface there are holes for screws for fastening to the wall and threaded holes for screwing and installing other parts of the case.

The correct position of the entire lamp depends on how accurately the rear wall is installed. In most cases, the holes for the fasteners have a small gap, so in case of a slight miss, the position of the housing can be slightly adjusted.

Connecting the luminaire wiring

The connection diagram for a wall lighting device is practically no different from the methods used for any other lighting devices. The classic connection diagram with a remote switch is shown in the figure below.

If you need to connect several lamps, then you will need to lay your own neutral wire from the distribution box to each lighting point. The phase wire is connected from the switch. In this case, one conductor is used for all lighting devices.

Zero always goes directly, and phase only through the switch. Even if the lamp is equipped with an internal switch, the connection is still made only in this way. Therefore, before connecting the contacts of the electrical wiring and the wires of the lamp, you will need to check the markings of the neutral and phase wires using the attached passport, so as not to confuse them during assembly.

Before installation and connection, you will need to check the wiring and the lamp itself. Initially, we cut the wires of the electrical wiring harness to the required length and connect them to the contacts in the junction box. It is clear that during installation it will be necessary to turn off the toggle switch of the line supplying power to the box we need.

The next step is to connect the harness terminals at the installation site to the device wiring. Before connecting the contacts, we turn on the packet switch on the switchboard for a short time and use an electrical probe to check which of them is zero and which is phase. To avoid mistakes during further connection and installation, we mark each contact with a colored felt-tip pen.

Advice! Before assembly and installation, be sure to carry out a test installation, connect the contact chips of the lamp to the electrical wiring without installing it in place. This is done in order to check the operation of the switch, socket and lamp.

Sometimes it is necessary to align and bend the flexible contact elements in the socket to ensure reliable contact. Before installation and assembly, the lamp is allowed to work for 10-15 minutes in disassembled form. If the socket and body do not heat up, the lamp shines with a stable light, without crackling or flickering, then the structure can be assembled and installed on the wall.

Features of installation and connection of built-in lamps

The fashion for using built-in lamp models came simultaneously with the advent and spread of technology for finishing walls and ceilings with plasterboard, plastic and MF boards. A small space between the wall and the decorative slab allows you to hide the lamp body and wiring, leaving only the reflector and light source on the surface.

The connection diagram for built-in lighting devices differs from conventional wall sconces or lampshades only in the presence of an additional power supply, which simultaneously plays the role of a protective device. The main difference is in the method of attaching the housings to the decorative plate.

Installation of ceiling lights

Immediately after installing the supporting frame of the suspended ceiling, it is necessary to plan the points where the installation of lamps is expected. According to the drawn up diagram, the wiring harnesses are laid along the supporting metal ceiling profiles. If you plan to use LED lamps or strips, you will need to provide a place for mounting and connecting the housing of the low-voltage power supply.

Most often, the installation of ceiling lighting fixtures is carried out on a standard spring suspension. Each built-in model has its own installation size, which must be indicated in the product passport. After assembling the plasterboard or plastic ceiling cladding, a hole of mounting diameter is cut in the ceiling slab using a ring drill. All that remains is to pull out the wires from the previously laid wiring harness and connect them to the lamp connectors. To install the device, it is necessary to compress the side springs and install the housing into the mounting hole.

Larger box shades are attached directly to the steel ceiling frame prior to assembly before the ceiling tiles are installed. Next, the lamp is dismantled, leaving only the adapter pin mount. After laying plasterboard or MDF boards along the previously installed pin fastening, mark the position of the housing, cut a hole in the cladding and connect and assemble the lighting device.

Conclusion

Most specialists who install and connect lamps recommend drawing up diagrams and a description of the work performed. Any devices have to be maintained and repaired, so a drawing of the wiring location indicating the ratings and cross-sections of the wires, lamp markings can be useful in a few years when carrying out repairs or remodeling of the interior of the apartment.

After completion of construction and finishing work, the need arises to select lamps to illuminate the home: house, apartment, or other premises. There is a huge variety of lamps: wall, floor, ceiling. Ceiling lamps are divided according to the method and type of attachment to the ceiling, material of manufacture and lighting capabilities. Before you begin self-installation, you should thoroughly understand these and other equally important nuances.

Installation of ceiling lights

Types of lamps

Based on the mounting method, ceiling lamps are divided into 4 main types:

• hanging;
• invoices;
• point;
• slots.

Hanging

Pendant lamps are the most common and diverse class of their type. The most familiar version of their name among the people is chandeliers. There is a huge variety of chandeliers. They can be either huge, for lighting concert halls, or primitive, consisting of an ordinary light bulb and a simple lampshade. They are called suspended because they are mounted at some distance from the ceiling. For this, cables, chains, and tubes are used. This is often why many of them are height adjustable.

Installation of pendant lamps

These lamps can easily illuminate rooms with a large area and high ceilings. They are usually attached to the ceiling in two ways: using a hook or a strip.

In the first case, a ring is attached to the ceiling, where the chandelier will then be hung by a hook. After connecting the wires, they are hidden by a decorative bowl, which moves along the tube and is then secured.

In the second case, a plank is first attached to the ceiling. The difficulty of such installation is that such a connection cannot be made alone. The decorative bowl that hides the wiring is firmly attached to the chandelier, and before screwing the lamp on, you need to connect the wires. That is, one person must hold the chandelier suspended while the other connects the wiring.

Invoices

Surface-mounted lamps are attached directly to the ceiling without any suspensions. Some lamps have adjustment for the tilt of the lighting lamp. This way you can illuminate a large area of ​​the room. This class is gaining increasing popularity in the consumer market.

Installation of surface-mounted lamps

Due to the mounting method, such lamps are best suited for small rooms such as a toilet, storage room, if the ceilings are low, where pendant chandeliers, as a rule, are not used. Their lighting area is small, but now there are lamps that shine much more intensely than a regular incandescent lamp. Due to the use of such lamps, the saturation of space with light in such lamps is significantly increased.

Many of the overhead lamps are quite large, heavy and even have 2-3-stage lighting capabilities, including using a remote control. To mount them, you need a rigid base so that it is sufficient to hold it on the ceiling.

Spot

Spotlights are another recent invention. They do not need to be screwed to the ceiling or hung on hooks. They are installed on suspended ceilings of small thickness (suspended, plasterboard, plastic (PVC), tension). They use two spring-loaded petals for fastening. A hole is made in the ceiling equal to the diameter of the upper part of the lamp. The petals are pressed against the body of the lamp with your fingers and inserted into the hole. Then they are released. Thus, the petals press the lamp tightly to the ceiling.

Installation of spotlights

Basically, spotlights are small in size and therefore are used mainly only as an additional light source in a set with other lamps. They can be used as main lighting, but they will have to be installed in large quantities due to the small lighting area.

Larger spotlights also weigh more. In this regard, stronger springs are installed on the petals to securely hold them on the ceiling. When replacing or dismantling the lamp, the petals destroy the ceiling due to strong springs. Therefore, it is recommended to buy them immediately of proper quality so that they can serve for a long time without the need for replacement.

For pendant lamps, springs should not be purchased at all. The ceiling does not have a rigid base, and therefore will stretch, making dismantling very difficult.

Slots

Slot chandeliers as lighting fixtures

Slots appeared on the market quite recently, much later than all other types. Their distribution is still relatively small, but they are gaining more and more of their market. They are something average between overhead and pendant lamps.

The fundamental difference between slots and other lighting devices is that they have lamp adjustment in absolutely any direction, this makes it possible to change the angle of inclination, changing the degree of illumination of any area of ​​the area.

Ceiling mount

Concrete ceiling

To attach to such a ceiling, you must have a stepladder, a hammer drill or drill and dowel-nails. The places where the fastening should be located are measured. Holes of the required diameter are drilled. The lamps are either fixed to dowels or nails, or hooks are screwed into the chopsticks. A lamp is then hung on them. The wire is nailed either to the ceiling and then plastered, or, if it is a floor slab, it is pulled through the technological void. All types of lamps, except spotlights, can be installed on such a ceiling.

Suspended ceiling

A light tin structure with squares of equal size is installed on the ceiling, into which polystyrene squares are then inserted. All wiring is spread across the ceiling after the tin structure is installed and adjusted. After installing the polystyrene, lamps are installed and connected in pre-planned locations.

Mostly small spotlights are installed on such a ceiling. Polystyrene is a rather fragile material; it is better to remove or replace the lamp after first removing the required square, in order to avoid damage to the ceiling.

It is also possible to install pendant lamps. They must be attached to a rigid frame structure. Installation of slots is possible only on the condition that they are carried out on small suspensions and are large structures with many lamps to ensure more reliable fastening.

It is very difficult to install overhead lamps on such a ceiling. The only exception can be a raster, overhead lamp, which is inserted into a square instead of polystyrene, as shown in the figure below.

Installation of lamp and suspended ceiling

Slat ceiling

A slatted ceiling is somewhat similar to a suspended ceiling, but is made from slats, creating a fairly rigid and durable structure. It can be made open, creating the appearance of a lattice, or covered with PVC panels or some other material.

It is possible to install all types of lamps without exception. Wiring must also be carried out in advance to the installation locations of the lamps.

Gypsum and PVC panels

The ceiling is first formed from a rigid and reliable frame with a tin profile. Next, the wiring is routed along the frame to the places of future installation of the lamps. After this, the ceiling is completely covered with plasterboard or plastic panels. After the required distances to the installation locations of the lamps have been measured, holes of the required size are drilled. They are drilled with special drywall drill bits or with a so-called “ballerina drill”. It is a rod with a blade that can be moved along it, thus changing the diameter.

It is possible to install any types of lamps on such a ceiling. You just need to remember that to install spotlights you need to get into the space between the frame, and for other types, on the contrary, you need the mount to get into the frame for their rigid fixation.

Very often, the ceiling made of plasterboard or PVC panels is multi-level. Several types of lamps are often installed on such ceilings, combining them with each other. This allows you to “play” with light, creating, for example, romantic illumination.

Stretch ceiling

For a stretch ceiling, the installation locations of future lamps must be measured in advance, the wiring must be connected and, if these are not spotlights, then a frame must be made to secure the lamp. The future frame is mounted at the same level as the ceiling.

After stretching the ceiling, a plastic ring of the required size is glued to it using reliable glue, which can be used with PVC material, into which a spotlight will then either be inserted, or wires will be taken out from there. A puncture is made inside the ring, and the torn petals are glued outside to more securely fix the ring, but so that in the future they are not visible from under the lamp frame.

Any fastening must be done inside such a ring, since a puncture of the stretch ceiling will lead to it simply breaking, becoming completely unusable. It is best to entrust this work to professionals, since it will be extremely difficult for an unprepared person to do it, and there is a high chance of making a mistake. A stretch ceiling is a thing that requires great care, and it cannot be called budget-friendly. That is why there is no need to rush and take risks.

Connecting lamps

To connect lamps yourself, you should be extremely careful and not neglect safety rules. First of all, you should disconnect the power from the wires. To do this, the machines on the meter are turned off. If plugs or plug-type machines are installed, they must be unscrewed and put aside.

Even after turning off the machines or unscrewing the plugs, it is still necessary to check the absence of passing current with a multimeter or an indicator screwdriver. If according to their readings no electric current is detected, you can touch the wire with the back of your hand. Otherwise, if you grasp the wire with your palm without first checking for the presence of current, you may get hit with it. In this case, the hand may tightly cling to the wire, which can lead to death.

Connection diagrams for different types of lamps

The figure shows examples of various connections of lamps. If it is necessary to connect several lamps to one key, then all connections must be made in parallel. A serial connection for 220V lamps is not suitable, as they will glow poorly and unevenly.

For 2 and 3 key switches, any connection combination is possible. The chandelier can be lit in a 2-stage way. Also, one key can turn on the central light, the other can turn on the additional light. Here everything depends on the desire and imagination of the performer.

Installation. Video

You can learn about the features of installing ceiling lamps from this video.

You can do any work yourself, including installing lamps. The main thing is to study the required topic well enough and carry it out carefully in compliance with safety regulations.

Often in modern interior design, solutions with suspended or suspended ceilings are used, as well as with structures made of plasterboard, plastic or MDF - various niches and columns. This is how they delimit work areas and complement the space. But any designs and shapes do not look impressive without lighting. In this case, a common solution is to install spotlights. Let's figure out what it is and how to do it yourself.

Types and differences

Spotlights can be built-in, surface-mounted, pendant and external. Built-in ones do not have a lampshade or housing as such; they consist of fastening parts, a socket and a decorative frame; a light bulb, for example, c or other types, is installed in the socket. The decorative frame is located on the outside of the drywall or other facing material, that is, on the viewer's side.

Sometimes the light bulb is covered with a decorative diffuser or an additional part of the body - external shades, pendants, etc.

Expert opinion

Alexey Bartosh

Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.

Point light sources are often called differently - spot, do not get confused when you look for them in stores and in conversations with builders.

Overhead dots are convenient to install to illuminate furniture, for example, on shelves; they do not require free space behind the plane, like built-in dots.

Hanging spots are something between a spotlight and a chandelier.

Outdoor spots can be designed to resemble small spotlights; these are installed in galleries to illuminate paintings, in stores to illuminate display cases, and at home as a directional light source, for example, above a bed, to make it convenient to read before bed.

It is worth noting that spotlights of unusual designs, such as track lighting systems, can be spotlights; we recently published an article about them on the website, by the way.

Types of lamps for spotlights

An equally important parameter of the light source is the type of lamps used. Previously, in most cases, halogen and incandescent lamps were installed in spotlights.

Later, energy-saving compact fluorescent lamps became a trend.

Currently, LED light sources occupy a leading position in the market.

There are two more options:

1. Spotlights can have a replaceable lamp, then you can install any type of light source as long as.
2. Product with pre-installed LED. In this case, if it burns out, you will have to change the entire lamp or select and resolder the LED.

However, in addition to the type of light sources used, their voltages should also be taken into account. The most widely used voltage values ​​are:

1. 220 V.
2. 12 V.

A voltage of 12 V is considered safe, so it is highly recommended to use it in wet areas - in the bathroom and kitchen. On the other hand, with the same power, a 12 V lamp will consume more current, this is especially important for LED lamps.

For comparison, a 220 V, 50 W halogen lamp is powered by a current of 0.25 (Quarter) Ampere, 12 V 50 W is a little more than 4 Ampere. The difference is almost 20 times. And if there are about 10 spotlights with such lamps?

High current leads to the need to use a large cross-section cable, which increases the cost of the system as a whole. For LED lamps this is not so significant, since the currents in them will be up to 7–10 times lower, as will the power consumption.

We will look at how to connect point light sources and which cable to use below.

Advantages and disadvantages of spotlights

What are the advantages of spotlights over other types of ceiling lamps? With their help, they organize both general and local lighting, as well as decorative lighting in niches and so on. Let's look at their advantages:

1. You can assemble the switching diagram in groups or separately for each point. This, firstly, will make it possible to adjust the lighting without using dimmers. Secondly, you save energy if you turn on the lights only in the part of the room where they are needed.
2. The ability to use a group of lamps to create overall bright main lighting and at the same time decorative lighting.
3. If one lamp burns out, the lighting situation in a room will not change significantly if there are a dozen spotlights installed in it. The lighting will continue to perform its functions. Whereas if you install a chandelier with 3-5 powerful lamps, if one burns out there will be a significant difference in illumination.
4. If recessed points are installed in a suspended ceiling, then you do not lose the height of the room, as happens when installing a regular chandelier.
5. The design of the spots is simple, so the system is durable.

Flaws:

1. Large initial investment. Since in most situations the work is not limited to a pair of lamps, but you also need to buy light bulbs for them, this comes out to be a considerable amount.
2. To cover a larger area with light, you need to increase the number of spots. Directional light is not always good. Therefore, before proceeding with installation, you need to accurately determine the distance between them so that there are no areas with poor lighting.

Connection diagram for 220 V

You can make the connection yourself if you understand the principles of constructing and assembling the circuit. The simplest way is to power all points from one switch with one key. The lamps are connected in parallel, that is, two wires are connected to each of them - phase and zero.

Connection diagram with single-key switch

To divide the lamps into two groups, you need to connect the circuit to a two-key switch.

When installing lamps in a suspended ceiling, the wiring takes place in the space between the plasterboard sheet and the ceiling; it is hidden from view and at the same time accessible for easy installation and maintenance.

To increase the number of groups, install another switch or pair, and wire the power cables in the same way.

The number of wires depends on the number of groups. In this case, a phase conductor is passed through the switch, and the neutral wire is usually common. For these purposes, cable brands VVG or NYM, as well as PVS and ShVVP, are suitable. The number of cores and cross-sectional area are either 2x1.5 or 3x1.5. It is better to lay the cable in a plastic corrugation; you can do without it, but the corrugation will provide additional protection from rodents. If there are no wires connected to the lamp sockets, then it is better to make this connection with a heat-resistant wire of the RKGM brand or put a protective fiberglass tube on the ordinary conductors. “Tails” 15–20 cm long are enough, and the supply phase and neutral are connected to them. If there is such a possibility, then the entire installation can be carried out using RKGM wire, since suspended ceilings are most often made of flammable materials - plastic, plasterboard, MDF, etc.

It is also worth noting that there are two types of parallel connections - loop and star. The daisy chain connection diagram is as follows: the supply wires are connected to the first lamp, from it to the second, and so on. The star connection diagram is that all lamps are connected by separate wires to the incoming power wires.

The advantage of the cable is that it saves cable products. The disadvantage is that if the wire comes off from one of the lamps, most likely, the devices connected after it will also not work. The advantage of the star is the high reliability of the circuit, because each lamp is connected with an individual wire. The disadvantage is the high cost of such a number of conductors.

Connecting 12 V spotlights

If you are performing electrical installations in a bathroom or other wet room, you should be especially responsible about electrical safety issues. Choose the right type of lamps, for example, you can install 12 V spots above the mirror and sink, or spotlights built into the suspended ceiling or furniture. Such lamps are connected through a power source with a reduced voltage - a network or electronic transformer.

As you can see, the circuit is almost completely similar to that for 220V lamps, the only difference is that the lamps are powered through a transformer.

Selecting power and type of transformer

Lamps for spotlights that are powered by a voltage of 12 V must be powered through a special power source - a transformer. As we have already mentioned, they come in two types – network and electronic.

A network transformer is a large iron and heavy electrical device that converts voltage (increases or decreases). Old or low-quality transformers may hum during operation. Nowadays they are rarely used to power lighting.

Electronic transformers are small in size and lightweight. They operate at a high frequency, so you won’t hear a hum from them, and thanks to this, she was able to reduce size and weight. The case contains a board with electronic components and a pulse transformer on a ferrite core.

The power of the transformer is selected based on the number and power of the lamps that it will power. You should take a transformer with a margin of 20–40% to eliminate the possibility of overload and to be able to add 1–2 lamps.

Electronic transformer housings often indicate current rather than power. Therefore, to find out the power of the device, you simply need to multiply the output current (I output) by the voltage of 12 V.

What you need to know before you start installation

Let's look at the process of installing recessed spotlights in different materials. Before proceeding with installation, you need to determine the diameter of the holes for the spotlights. This is necessary for the correct selection of the tool you will use to make them, for example, crowns. Next, draw up a diagram of the location of spotlights on the ceiling for proper wiring. If the ceiling is suspended, then you should remember that the points need to be attached to the main ceiling. To do this, you will need an impact drill or hammer drill and a set of fastening materials. The recessed ceiling lamp can be completely assembled only after making all the holes, routing the wires along the suspended ceiling and assembling the circuits.

Installation algorithm for ceilings made of plasterboard, plastic, MDF or wood

These materials are united by two factors - they are used for suspended ceilings and decorative wall decoration and the fact that they are quite easy to process.

1. Decide on the layout of the lamps along the ceiling.

2. Mark the ceiling; to do this, you can glue pieces of electrical tape crosswise to the places where future spots will be installed, or apply marks with a marker or pencil.

3. Determine the dimensions of spotlights. This is necessary in order to select the diameter of the crown that will be used to drill holes in drywall (or other ceiling material).

4. The fastest and most convenient way to drill holes is with a wood bit or a bimetallic bit. They come in all diameters and are often sold in sets.

5. After the holes are made, you need to run a cable to each of the lamps. To do this, first prepare the main power cable or cables from switches for each group of luminaires. Next, depending on the chosen connection option (star or cable), a rigid cable or wire with a hook at the end is inserted into the hole where the lamp will stand. It is directed to the place where the cable is located, from which the point will be powered. There they hook the power cable with a hook and pull it to the lamps.

6. When power is supplied to all lamps and other lighting elements, we install the lighting devices themselves according to their design and instructions. Usually there are two spring-loaded locking stops; you squeeze them with your fingers and insert the device into the hole, after which the lamp can be released and it will sit in its place. All that remains is to install decorative elements, if any.

Installation is complete.

In suspended ceilings

Before the installation begins, they stretch peculiar beacons - threads between the walls, with their help they indicate the level of the stretch ceiling, this is necessary so that later the canvas is not stretched on the lamps, but is even. This is not necessary, but it will be faster to verify how smoothly the installation of recessed lamps occurs.

After marking, support platforms are installed for installing spotlights in the suspended ceiling. Mounting platforms are universal, have a round shape with molding in the form of concentric circles of different diameters, which allows you to cut out the one you need for your lamps.

The next step is to wire the spots and connect power supplies if necessary.

The last step is performed after the canvas is stretched. In places opposite the mounting platforms, rings are glued and a hole is cut in the canvas along their inner contour. The ring holds the canvas, preventing tears. The mounting platforms are easy to find under the canvas if they are level, just probe lightly for the latter. When the hole is made you will have access to the wires to connect the lamp. Make the connection and install the luminaire through the ring into the mounting platform.

Conclusion

Installing and connecting spotlights with your own hands is not as difficult as choosing specific models and ceiling placement schemes. You can do this with your own hands; you will need a minimum set of construction tools. But you will save money on this job and acquire new skills.

Alexander Dragun, PhD, site expert

Life, unfortunately, is designed in such a way that an expensive, beautiful thing can be ruined by small details. Same with suspended ceilings. By adding together significant finances and good taste, you can end up with a very beautiful ceiling. However, ill-conceived lighting can ruin all your efforts. Previously, we have already considered the questions: what type of lighting is suitable for the interior of the room and the type of stretched fabric (work “”) and how to calculate the number of lamps per room (material “”). Below we will consider methods for attaching lighting fixtures when installing a stretch ceiling.

Installation of recessed lamps

Installation of recessed lamps in a suspended ceiling has a strict sequence of work:

1. determining the layout of the cable route on the wall, switches, junction boxes and, if necessary, drivers;
2. calculation of the cross-section of cables and wires;
3. laying wiring on the wall, installing switches;
4. drawing up a diagram for mounting lamps;
5. ceiling markings;
6. installation of a mortgage platform;
7. lamp assembly;
8. installation of a chandelier.

For information: the first three points will be discussed in a separate work.

Drawing up a diagram

You should begin work on installing lamps in a suspended ceiling with your own hands by developing a diagram of the location of distribution boxes, drivers, lamps, chandeliers and electrical wire routes, as well as the places where they are attached to the ceiling. In this case, you must follow some rules:

• The distance of lighting fixtures from the wall is at least 20 cm, from each other - 30 cm, from the seam on the film - 15 cm;

• The wires in relation to the walls and each other should run parallel or perpendicular. Diagonal routes are prohibited;
• The change in direction should only be at an angle of 90 o;
• After installing the tension fabric, there must be access to the distribution boxes - they cannot be under the baguette or on the wall in the inter-ceiling space;
• On the ceiling, not only the mounting locations for the lamps, but also the clamps for attaching the cables should be marked.

Required materials and tools

Installation of spotlights in a suspended ceiling requires the following materials, tools and devices:

• stepladders or strong table;
• cable VVGng;

• APPV wires;
• pliers with a narrow nose (“platypus”);
• indicator screwdriver;

• corrugated tube for wires if you plan to use an APPV cable;
• clamps for fastening a cable or corrugated tube;

• a hammer drill with a set of drills (for concrete with a pobedit tip) or an electric drill;
• laser level;
• dowels and self-tapping screws - for fastening clamps;
• dowel-nails for lamps;
• self-tapping screws “bug”;
• chandelier hook;

• Plastic rings for the embedded frame (platform), universal or for a specific size;

• perforated tape 12x0.7mm or a rigid stand with adjustable height (as an option, you can use direct hangers used to attach the ceiling profile);

• terminal blocks;
• crayons for marking the ceiling and tape for the floor;
• roulette;
• thermal rings made of heat-resistant ABS plastic 0.2 cm thick - protect the film from overheating and tearing (can also be square or rectangular);

• electrician's knife for stripping wires;
• construction knife;
• glue for PVC;
• Phillips screwdriver.

Marking

Installation of lamps in a suspended ceiling requires mandatory marking on the ceiling of the places where the light sources are attached, with the distances of each point from the wall and from each other recorded on the diagram.

This is done primarily so that after installing the canvas, it is possible to cut a hole for the light bulbs exactly under the mortgages. Working with a tape measure is labor-intensive and requires care - an error of 3-4 cm can be fatal, as a result of which it will not be possible to install the lamp.

Everything changed with the advent of modern laser levels. The markings began to be carried out not on the ceiling, but on the floor. Then, using laser beams, the installation location of the lamp is projected onto the ceiling with an accuracy of a few millimeters.

In this case, it makes no difference to the device where to project a mark from the floor, onto the ceiling or onto an already stretched canvas. By this time, some experience has already been accumulated:

1. It is more convenient to measure distances on the floor not with a tape measure, but with a template with marks. This can be any long object, such as a mop handle or a piece of cable;
2. It is not very convenient to place crosses on the floor with chalk or other coloring objects: the chalk may be erased during the installation of the ceiling, and traces of the felt-tip pen will have to be washed away. Markings made with adhesive tape do not create any problems - it can be easily removed upon completion of work.

The work on installing lighting in suspended ceilings is divided into two stages:

1. Before installing the film ceiling, install racks (platforms);
2. After installation - assembly of the lamp.

Installation of racks

The technology for installing a platform for mounting lamps has a strict sequence of work:

1. The embedded rings are connected to the stand. For this purpose, a universal platform is taken. Rings of smaller diameter are cut out of it with a knife - the hole left should be the same size as the body of the lamp (if everything is carefully cut out, the lamp should fit freely into the embedded ring). If the platforms were purchased for a specific lamp size, there is no need to cut anything.

At the next stage, the length of the perforated tape for the racks is calculated. It is equal to the outer diameter of the embedded ring and double the distance between the suspended ceiling and the ceiling (two racks), plus 2 cm for each rack.

Attention: many experts believe that before starting work it is necessary to install a baguette (mount for the tension fabric), and only then do the electrical work (helps to accurately calculate the length of the stand). But this scheme of work runs counter to the interests of the company installing the tension structure: the installers refuse to come to install the baguette, and then a day or two later to stretch the canvas. Rearranging the order of operations does not affect the quality of work of electricians - the racks can be installed longer, and then bent, reducing the length. After attaching the canvas, the platforms are pulled down to the desired size.

Attention: when determining the height of the interceiling space, it is necessary to take into account the type of light bulb (for an ice lamp with a GX53 base, it is enough to lower the film by 35-50 mm, for the rest 50-70 mm) (see photo).

The cut tape is bent in the shape of a “P”, where the top bar is equal to the size of the embedded ring and is screwed to it with “bug” self-tapping screws. In some types of platforms, fastening is done through slots in the body. A direct suspension (perforated tape) is passed through them and bent. Instead of punched paper tape, you can use an adjustable stand.

2. The finished platform is attached to the ceiling. To do this, a hole is drilled in the ceiling using an electric drill, a dowel is driven in and a platform is attached.

Installation of built-in light sources

The instructions on how to install a spotlight in a suspended ceiling contain only a few points:

• Using a laser level, the installation locations of built-in light sources are projected onto the stretched ceiling;

• The thermal ring is glued to the film with special glue so that the mark on the film is in its center. To do this, the ring is smeared with glue and applied to the ceiling. In this case, it should not be allowed to shift along the film;

Important: the maximum permissible internal diameter of the thermal ring is 15 cm.

• The film is cut out inside the ring with a knife;

• The platform extends down to the plane of the stretched ceiling;
• Terminals are attached to the wires;
• At the socket, the wires are stripped with an electrician's knife and secured in the terminal block. At a voltage of 220V, it is not necessary to observe the color of the wires; at a voltage of 12 or 24V, zero must be connected to zero (blue wire), phase to phase (black or red). If this requirement is not followed, many types of LED lamps will not work;
• The light bulb is inserted into the socket;
• The lamp springs are pressed against the base with your fingers and inserted into the platform ring.

The operation is repeated with each lamp until the last one.

Installation of an overhead lamp

The overhead lighting fixture is attached to the ceiling using the same technology as a chandelier on a frame - the instructions are identical. Track lamps, which are gaining popularity, are also mounted on a frame, but are mounted mainly on a suspended ceiling. On film or fabric it is difficult to disguise the places where the route is attached and the cable exit from the inter-ceiling space.

How to install a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

The chandelier can be mounted on a hook, as well as on linear or cross-shaped strips.

Hook. Depending on the number of shades in the chandelier, the hook may be threaded - screwed into a dowel or a plug hammered into a drilled hole. Used for chandeliers with 3-5 arms. For heavier lighting fixtures, use a butterfly hook. To do this, holes are drilled in the concrete floor to the internal cavity of the slab. A hook is driven into it until the petals open.

In order for the decorative cap to have a rigid stop and fix the lighting fixture above the stretched film, a rigid plywood frame is attached to the ceiling. To do this, a round hole is cut in the middle using a hammer drill or a drill with a crown attachment for wires and a suspension (cable or chain).

Then, using perforated tape of dowels and self-tapping screws, the plywood is attached to the main ceiling so that the hook and cable are above the cut hole. The length of the direct suspension or perforated tape should be generous.

As in the case of built-in lamps, the platform is pressed against the ceiling with your hands so that after completing work on installing the stretch ceiling, it can be pulled down until it comes into contact with the polyvinyl chloride film or polyester fabric.

After installing the stretch ceiling, a hole is cut in the canvas, but only after gluing a plastic ring (it can be cut out yourself from any plastic, since thermal protection of the film is not required, but only to prevent it from breaking).

Through holes in the film and plywood, the chandelier is connected to the wires via a terminal block and then hung on a hook. If you hang it right away, it’s difficult to connect the wires. The process is completed by raising the decorative cap to the ceiling until it stops. If, however, the plywood does not lie tightly and the cap leaves a mark on the canvas, then you need to lower either the frame or the cap.

Plank. Manufacturers of chandeliers also use one or two strips (arranged in a cross at a right angle) to attach them to the ceiling. In this case, take a beam under each plank (a little longer so that the chandelier does not swing) and attach it to the ceiling with a perforated metal strip. But before that, a hole for a bolt is drilled in the middle of a solid beam.

If the chandelier is light, the bolt can be replaced with a self-tapping screw. Then there is no need to drill a hole. The second beam is cut in half and attached to the ceiling in the same way, and for greater stability, using corner fasteners, to the first plank. The length of the mounting posts should be generous so that, if necessary, the beam can be lowered down to the stretched ceiling.

After the PVC or polyester film has been stretched to install the chandelier, you must:

• wrap the ends of the planks with inserted bolts with electrical tape so that the ceiling fabric is not damaged;
• attach the overhead strip to the beam;
• connect the chandelier through the terminals to the electrical network;
• attach the chandelier body to the slats;
• Cover the attachment point with a decorative cap - raise it to the stretched ceiling.

The nuances of installing LED strip on a suspended ceiling

LED strip is used mainly as decorative lighting. With its help, you can add numerous lighting effects to the main lighting. Place the tape above or below the ceiling.

In the first case, the LED lamp is attached to the ceiling with PVA glue or double-sided tape. To ensure good adhesion of the glue or tape to the overlap, it is degreased and then primed along the route. The tapes are connected using a connector.

To install the tape under the stretched film or fabric, previously it was necessary to install a two-level ceiling system. The LEDs were mounted on a side strip that covered the space between the levels. Currently, special fastenings from profiles have been developed that can be placed along a stretched ceiling in any direction.

The LED strip is attached inside the profile. It is hidden from the observer by a special lampshade. Depending on the number of LEDs per linear meter, lighting can be auxiliary or primary - 240 crystals per linear meter are required.

Conclusion and summary

Having studied the above materials on how to install lamps in a suspended ceiling, you can do the work yourself before the ceiling installer goes to your apartment. The main thing is to adhere to a certain order of work:

1. draw up a diagram of the location of point light sources and chandeliers, lay out routes for power cables;
2. transfer the drawing to the ceiling;
3. conduct and secure electrical wires;
4. mount and then attach to the platform ceiling;
5. Draw a diagram for attaching lamps along the stretched ceiling;
6. under the platforms, glue thermal rings to the film or polyester and cut holes in them;
7. connect the lamps to the power cables.

For a chandelier the process is simpler:

1. attach the hook to the ceiling;
2. glue a thermal ring to the stretched film and cut a hole in it;
3. connect the chandelier wires to the supplied wires through the terminal block;
4. hang the chandelier on a hook and cover the hole in the ceiling with a decorative cap.

Video on the topic

During the renovation of the hallway, the question arose about the choice of ceiling lamps. I didn’t have to choose the type of ceiling, since I had experience working with suspended ceilings. A suspended ceiling made of PVC film was chosen. I had to think about which lamp to install on the ceiling. I wanted to have modern, beautiful lamps, and at the same time I didn’t want to part with the homemade chandelier and sconces hanging in the hallway.

The choice has been made. The chandelier and sconces remained hanging on the ceiling in the hallway, but for the corridor I decided to purchase spotlights, since there was a single-lamp hanging on the wall. Before installing the suspended ceiling, you should stretch the wires. To do this, you need to make a drawing of the electrical circuit, which includes the number of lamps, the type of light bulbs, and their power.

Today, 4 types of lamps are widely used:

• Incandescent;
• LED;
• Halogen;
• Compact (energy saving).

Each type has both positive and negative sides. In addition, when choosing lamps, you should take into account their parameters, such as the distance between the fixed and suspended ceiling. Using the table below you can find out the characteristics of the lamps and select the one needed for your ceiling.

Specifications may differ from the data in the table. It depends on the type of lamp, design, type of ceiling. For example, there are ceilings that are afraid of heating more than 60 degrees. This limits the choice of lamp.

Halogen lamps are afraid of voltage surges, so they often burn out. They are designed for both 12 V and 220 V. Lamps operating at 12 V require a step-down transformer and power supply. Therefore, when installing such lamps, do not forget about the space in the wall or ceiling for its installation.

Calculation of power and number of lamps

When choosing the power of the lamp, you should take into account the size of the room and the color of the furniture. You should select a lamp based on your taste. Using the table you can find out what power of lamps you will need. Calculations were made based on luminous flux values ​​and lamp type.

It was planned to install spotlights in the corridor. Here are the calculations that were made.

The corridor looks like the letter T. The area of ​​the plot is 4.5 m2, 2.8 m2. The total area is 7.3 m2. The required power of the lamps should be 15.6 W (7.3?2). The ceiling height in the room is 2.75 m. It was planned to paint the walls in a creme brulee color. Since the corridor has a complex shape, it is necessary to install 4 lamps, the lamps of which will have a power of 5 W with a reserve. Power supply 220 V, pin socket GU5.3. This type of plinth is popular due to its small dimensions, which allows installation at a low ceiling height.

The walls of the corridor were decorated with paintings, which were planned to remain after the renovation. Based on this, I chose white lamps with a color temperature of 4000 K. If you want to achieve warm light, lamps with a color temperature of 2700 K are suitable for you. Note that room lighting does not always have to consist of ceiling lights. It is better to reduce the power of the lamps and place a couple of wall lamps on the wall.

If there is local lighting, then the ceiling can be illuminated with LED strip. Everything is limited by your imagination.

Selecting a wire for wiring spotlights

To power 4 lamps, any double-insulated wire will do. It is better to choose a copper double connecting wire that has many strands. For example, PVA 2*0.75. The cross-section will not play a big role, since the current will not exceed 0.1 A. If 12 V halogen lamps are used, then the cross-section of the wires must be calculated. One lamp with a power of 60 W consumes a current of 5 A.

Selection and installation of a recessed ceiling spotlight

You can find many lamps on store shelves. But they all have the same design and differ only in appearance. Some models have the function of changing the direction of the light flow.

Since I need to illuminate the corridor, the simplest lamps with a base socket were chosen.

Each lamp has a body that looks like a figured ring, and platforms with fastenings for springs with ears. The type and power of the lamp determines its shape, as well as the presence or absence of a socket (usually E14).

A separate niche is occupied by lamps whose LEDs are placed on a printed circuit board.

If it fails, the light bulb cannot be replaced. You will have to either change the entire lamp or look for LEDs. And its price is not too low. Lamps that do not have a socket press the lamp using a spring shaped like a cut ring.

The lamp is inserted due to the fact that the ring expands and fits into the groove located in the housing. This lamp is suitable for both LED and halogen lamps. Just don’t forget about the supply voltage that the lamps can withstand. To fix the lamp in the ceiling, it is necessary to make a hole at the location of the lamp, which will be slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the housing flange.

The ears of the springs must be spread to such an extent that they fit into the hole made. Then they can be released. Leaning on the ceiling, they press the lamp against the flange until it stops, which allows the lamp to be fixed.

After fixing the lamp in the ceiling, we thread the wire and connect the socket with the terminal block. The socket must be put on the socket, the lamp must be inserted into the lamp body, the spring must be released and secured.

Electrical wiring diagram for spotlights

Before installing the ceiling, you should pay attention to the choice of the type of lamps, the number of lamps, their location, and the choice of power. To do this, you need to develop an electrical circuit. During its development, the method of fastening the wires to each other and the points at which these wires are connected are taken into account.

Since there were wires coming out of the wall on which the lamp was located, they will be used to install the ceiling lamps. Since after installing the suspended ceiling there will be no access to the wires, they must be fastened in a reliable way. I settled on twisting and soldering with tin-lead solder. These points are marked on the diagram.

If you plan to place such lamps in a room where a computer or TV is located, you need to take into account that the angle of incidence of the beam on the surface is equal to the angle of reflection. Therefore, such lamps cannot be placed above equipment, as there will be glare from the monitor. Before planning the lamp, you need to consider the arrangement of furniture and equipment in the room.

If the lamps are powered by a voltage of 220 V, no additional equipment will be required, but if they need 12 V, then it should be taken into account that a place must be made for the power source of these lamps that will have easy access for maintenance.

Installation of electrical wiring for connecting spotlights

After purchasing all the necessary lamps and wires, you can begin to work.

Electrical wiring can be installed at any stage of repair work. Even before installing a stretch ceiling. During the renovation of the walls, the light turned out to be dim. I had to connect temporary sockets into which energy-saving lamps were screwed.

Before installing the wires, select and mark the locations of the lamps. Marked with circles in the photo. To prevent wires from sagging, fasten them at intervals of 40 - 50 cm.

To secure the wires, you can use dowels - clamps (left photo) or nail clips (right), which have different sizes. If the installation will be done with a dowel - a clamp, drill a hole in the wall, put on the clamp and hammer the dowel into the wall. To secure the wire with a nail clip, press the wire against the wall and hammer in the nail. This installation is suitable for attaching wires to plaster, wood, and plastic.

Nail staples are bad because the nail can fall out and the wire will lie on the ceiling. This mount was immediately thrown aside. The Khomuts were not at home. Therefore, I used the easiest method, which is based on securing the wire to the wall with a clamp made of vinyl chloride tube. To do this, drill a hole in the ceiling and hammer in a dowel. We wrap the tube around the wire and screw it with any self-tapping screw.

Making a harness for wiring ceiling spotlights

After installing the ceiling, access to the wiring will be limited. Therefore, the connection of wires to each other must be done efficiently. Most often, the wires are connected using a terminal block, say “Wago”. However, the most reliable method is soldering. That's what I used.

To minimize work under the ceiling, the harness was made in advance. All that remains is to attach it to the ceiling and connect it to the main wiring. To find out the length of the wires, it is necessary to take measurements between the mounting points of the lamps. The measurement results were entered into the electrical circuit, which was an electrical installation.

The harness was made of stranded wires with double insulation. The core in such a wire is covered with polyvinyl chloride and entwined with thread. To make it easier to carry out work, the wires were twisted into a pigtail.

The first step was to remove the insulation from the wires, which allowed the wires to be tinned with solder. The second section of the corridor involves branching wires, so they were twisted and soldered. To increase the reliability of the insulation, the soldering points are shifted relative to each other.

Tubes are placed at the soldering points to prevent short circuits. To prevent their movement along the wires, they should be secured with cambrics. The solder joints could be insulated using insulating tape. To avoid tangling the wires, the cambrics were marked with a marker. Part of the wire was located under the plaster. A polyvinyl chloride tube was placed in this place.

The tourniquet was attached to the ceiling. It's time to connect the wires to the main wiring. To do this, the wires coming out of the wall were trimmed with a shift. Since the wire is quite old, the cores are rough. To avoid damaging them, the insulation was removed thermally, namely with a soldering iron. The cores were protected, tinned, and then insulating tubes were put on.

Tubes are needed to protect a person from short circuits. The wires will not be able to touch one another on their own.

The place where the connection was made is secured to the ceiling with a clamp using a self-tapping screw. That's it, the wiring is complete.

The temporary sockets are connected with terminal blocks, the lamps are screwed in, and the room can be repaired.

Installation of an LED ceiling lamp on a PVC stretch ceiling

The technology described above is suitable for installing lamps on a rigid structure, such as plasterboard or a slatted ceiling. If the lamp is installed directly on a PVC ceiling, it is necessary to provide mounting points for the lamps, otherwise the ceiling will sag under their weight.

For such purposes, special fittings are sold on the market. In the photo you can see the ramp, that is, the mount for the lamp. The platform is made in the form of a cone, on the surface of which there are steps.