What frosts can lilies withstand in spring? Lilies: planting and care

Undoubtedly, the lily is the prima of the flower garden. But having a royal appearance, she is quite unpretentious. I planted a good bulb, and already in the first year you can expect flowering. There is a huge selection of varieties on sale. The packaging shows all the flowers close-up, and they are all amazingly beautiful! How to figure out which lilies to buy? Which ones are the most unpretentious?

According to the international classification of lilies, they are divided into 9 groups. The division into groups was made in accordance with their origin and biological characteristics. When purchasing, it is advisable to know which group the selected lily variety belongs to. The agricultural technology of planting, care and preservation in winter depends on this.

The group of lilies is indicated on the package. It is often written in Latin or indicated by two letters of the Latin alphabet. Sometimes flowering dates are also indicated. If the variety is imported, consider the flowering period a month later.

FEATURES OF DIFFERENT GROUPS

The most unpretentious Asian hybrids. They are very winter-hardy and reproduce well. Ideal choice for beginner flower growers.

The most promising today are hybrids between Longiflorum and Asiatics lilies. They were given the name LAhybrids. On the packaging they are designated by two letters LA or completely LAhybrids (photo 3).

The variety of shades and abundance of flowers on one stem is simply amazing! Several LAhybrid bulbs planted side by side provide a luxurious flowering array (photo 12, p. 6).

Compared to “Asians”, which have no scent, LA hybrids often have a subtle, delicate aroma.

However, in areas with harsh winters, it is advisable to cover LA hybrids for the winter. The shelter is simple: leaves, spruce branches and film without a frame right on the ground. Cover the lilies no earlier than the soil on top freezes, so that mice do not get to the bulbs. By the way, mice are a serious threat to lilies. In the central zone, LA hybrids overwinter normally, so there is no need for shelter, it only attracts mice.

But Oriental hybrids - Orientals (from Oriental Hybrids) can suffer without shelter, and not so much from frost, but from excess moisture. In autumn, the planting site is covered with spruce branches and film to keep the soil dry.

Oriental hybrids are rightfully considered the most beautiful (photo 1,6,11). Their flowers reach 25 cm in diameter, and their wavy petals resemble orchids. A wonderful aroma completes the picture. But, unfortunately, these are one of the most delicate lilies. In our climate they are often affected by diseases.

When buying Oriental lilies, you need to choose varieties with early flowering, since later ones do not have time to accumulate in the bulb nutrients and winter worse. In addition, their flowers are damaged by precipitation and lose their decorative properties.

But you shouldn’t give up on Oriental lilies. With good drainage and timely shelter for the winter, the plants bloom well and overwinter (photo 1).

One of the most fragrant and spectacular lilies are the Trumpet Hybrids, photos 4, 10. They bloom well in our area under two essential conditions: they need shelter from spring frosts and alkaline soil. In acidic soil they develop poorly and may even die. Therefore, when planting trumpet lilies, deoxidizers such as dolomite flour or ash are added.

The flower bud of these lilies is formed very early and is easily damaged at subzero temperatures. Exit or cover the plantings with spunbond in early spring, or plant the bulbs deeper so that they germinate later in the spring.

OT-hybrids (short for Oriental “oriental” and Trumpet “tubular hybrids”), photos 2, 8. These plants have absorbed all the best from the mother (oriental and trumpet) lilies. They have very large, exquisitely shaped flowers, often with a pleasant aroma.

But most importantly, in the central zone, OT hybrids do not need to be covered for the winter, they bloom profusely and are quite resistant to disease. Among them there are very tall plants, in flower beds they are planted in the background.

LO hybrids derived from long-flowered and oriental (Longiflorum x Oriental) also turned out to be more reliable than Orientals, pay attention to them.

WHEN TO BUY LILY?

The best time to buy lilies in a store is spring. This planting material, dug up in the fall, which goes on sale after storage. In the fall, stores sell those bulbs that have remained unsold since spring.

It is better to buy bulbs from private owners in the fall and plant them immediately (from late August to late September).

HOW TO PLANT LILES

In order for lilies to bloom well and not get sick, it is important to choose the right place and plant. When choosing a location, avoid low and windy areas. In lowlands, when moisture stagnates, the bulbs can rot.

LIGHT. In relation to light, all types of lilies are approximately the same; they love warm, sunny areas. The exception is Martagon lilies; they grow well in the shade (photo 7).

THE SOIL. Lilies love lungs fertile soils. Heavy clay needs to be loosened (sand, peat, compost), poor sandy soils need to be improved by adding herbal compost). Do not apply fresh manure under lilies, it provokes diseases.

Experienced flower growers prepare special soil for lilies. The best option fresh forest land(coniferous and leaf litter). Such soil has the ideal balance of moisture and air, which is necessary for lilies.

The planting depth depends on the size of the bulbs. General rule- 3D, that is, the planting depth is three times greater than the diameter of the bulb. Adult large bulbs are planted so that there is approximately 15 cm of soil above them.

FEEDING AND CARE

The soil under lilies should be kept free of weeds. The best way mulch the plantings with any organic matter: peat, compost, mown grass, pine litter.

Mulching allows you to avoid loosening, which is dangerous for lilies, since their supra-bulb roots are located close to the surface.

Modern varieties and hybrids of lilies have large flowers and bloom very profusely. Therefore, they require increased nutrition. Fertilizing is carried out several times per season, and fertilizers are selected according to development phases.

The first two feedings are nitrogen fertilizers (urea or ammonium nitrate). The first fertilizing is applied even before the lilies emerge to stimulate their growth. The second when sprouts appear.

During the growth period, before flowering, two more feedings are applied. Use complex fertilizers, for example, Ferticulux.

Before flowering, feed well with potassium magnesia. After flowering, August, September, abundant watering (if there is no precipitation) and fertilizing with potassium monophosphate. For ripening of bulbs.

After flowering, it is necessary to cut off the ovaries, but do not touch the stem. When cutting lilies into a bouquet, they also leave part of the stem (at least 1/3) so that the bulb is fed by the leaves.

With proper care, lilies grow in one place for 4-6 years, successfully reproduce and bloom. After this, the nest of bulbs should be divided. They start this in early September. Immediately after dividing, the bulbs are planted again.

PESTS AND DISEASES

Protection against diseases is preventive in nature. Thickened plantings should be avoided so that the plants can be ventilated.

The soil should be loose, for which it is mulched with organic matter.

When watering with fertilizer solutions, you must ensure that the solution does not get on the leaves. In general, any watering should be carried out strictly at the root. Excess moisture leads to disease of the leaves and stems.

Having detected signs of diseases, spots on the leaves, fungicides are used. In rainy weather, systemic ones (Ordan, Oxychom, Skor), in dry weather you can get by with biological products (Fitosporin, Alirin, Gamair). If your lilies suffer from diseases every year, spraying is carried out preventively: the first time in late May early June, the second time after flowering.

In case of mass yellowing of leaves, the stems are cut off and burned. Fallen leaves carry pathogens into the soil.

The most dangerous pest is the lily beetle. It is small, the size of a ladybug, bright red in color, and easily visible. In the spring the beetle eats the leaves, and in the summer it spoils the buds.

If the number of beetles is small, you can collect them by hand. During mass reproduction, insecticides are used, but only before flowering.

The beetle appears again in the second half of summer, after the lilies bloom. Spraying is carried out on the leaves, trying to prevent the solution from getting on flowering plants near.

Spring is the time to buy new lilies. Now we know more about them. Happy shopping everyone!

If frost occurs in your area every spring or quite often, this becomes the number one problem when growing lilies. In the Moscow region there were frosts for several years in a row - at the end of the last century and the beginning of the new. In some areas in May the temperature dropped to -7... -8°C. Without shelter or some other protection, lilies cannot withstand such a drop in temperature. At best, the stems partially freeze, after which their growth continues, but the flower buds usually die and the plants do not bloom. In the worst case, the stems freeze and gradually rot to the ground.

Measures to protect lilies from the harmful effects of frost can be divided into passive and active. The first includes buried planting of bulbs - approximately twice as deep as usual, that is, approximately 20 cm from the top of the bulb. What is achieved with this technique? In spring, lilies emerge from greater depths later, and if the plantings in the fall were also covered with a layer of dry peat or pine litter, then the shoots are barely visible even in mid-May. In case of return frosts, low seedlings are easier to cover additionally than the stems of plants that have already grown to a height of 20-30 cm. Frosts in middle lane often occur at the end of May (from 23.5 to 27.5). If the growing stems of lilies are tall enough, then there is nothing left to do but take active measures to protect them from frost. There may be several ways. The main method is to place metal or plastic arcs over the plantings and cover the entire structure with a non-woven covering material (agryl, lutrasil, spunbond), and on top plastic film. It is this double shelter that saves lilies when the temperature drops to -7...-8 °C.

Before covering with film, you can spray the plantings with an epin solution, which increases the plants' resistance to adverse environmental factors. Spraying with water may also help. Even light wetting of the soil surface with water can reduce the effects of frost and losses will be minimal.

A stunning example of active frost protection was described in the 60s of the last century by the German lily grower Gert Barich. He grew very difficult to cultivate varieties of golden lily. When growing lilies of this type in the garden, the slightest deviations from natural conditions lead to the death of the plants, and protection from 10-degree frost was almost a hopeless task. The author writes that he was prepared in advance for such circumstances and installed a sprinkler system with rotating sprayers between plantings. In the fall, a layer of brushwood (on top of the litter) was laid on the beds with lilies, which protected the plantings from germination too early. By the time the frost occurred, the stems of the lilies were quite large (up to 20 cm) and were making their way through the brushwood. Barikh turned on the sprinkling in the evening and turned it off only the next morning after sunrise. A frost of -10°C did not damage his lilies.

The lily grower also gave recommendations on the operation of the sprinkler system in case of saving lilies in such situations. Its nozzles must be adjustable so that you can change water consumption, rotation speed, jet length and spray degree. The water droplets should not be too fine, like fog; otherwise they will freeze immediately. When sprinkling, water should fall over the edges of the bed. The sprinkler system must operate from evening to morning without interruption. Such installations are more suitable for industrial cultivation of lilies in open ground, where it is economically feasible. Special attention deserve monitoring of lily plantings after their overwintering in 2002-2003. Autumn and winter of this period were abnormally cold for the Moscow region. The snowless start of winter in November with severe frosts (up to -35 °C) and fairly long periods with low temperatures in winter caused the soil to freeze to a depth of 1.5 m. A very late and cold spring complicated the survival of lilies. When the snow melted, water did not soak into the frozen ground and cover the plantings, causing the bulbs to get wet. All this allowed us to draw some preliminary conclusions about the endurance of lilies of different groups in extreme wintering conditions.

Winter 2002-2003 Almost all varieties of Asian hybrids and LA hybrids tolerated quite well. Among the Oriental hybrids and OT hybrids, the varieties “Twilight Time”, “Star Class”, “Early Yellow”, and “Early Yellow” withstood severe frosts without any shelter. "Yelloween" and others. Most varieties of these groups overwintered safely if all the recommendations mentioned earlier were followed - growing on raised beds, covering with plastic film before the onset of frost, and later with a layer of insulation. Surprisingly, their children, which developed through reproduction by scales, sprouted together.

The article was prepared based on materials from Chuchin V.M. (Hybridizer, Chairman of the lily section of the Moscow Flower Growers Club)

It is difficult to overestimate the beauty, severity of form, purity and brightness of colors of modern varieties of lilies. The variety of flowers, unpretentiousness, and delicate aroma can satisfy the tastes of any flower lover and connoisseur. Spring is approaching and flower lovers have in their assortment lilies, it’s time to plan: what needs to be done to make your favorite flower please and delight with its beauty.

The beginning of the lily's growing season is considered to be the emergence of the stem from the soil, but in fact the bulb awakens earlier, at the end of March. If the snow cover is sufficient and the soil is not deeply frozen, then the processes of accumulation of substances, that is, ripening, at a depth of 35-50 cm continue in winter at soil temperatures above 3-4? S. They are the first to awaken in the spring onion babies and try to break through the cover, so it is necessary to remove the peat or leaf cover as early and carefully as possible. If you are late, the soil will begin to warm up faster and the lilies will accelerate their growth, and late spring frosts will freeze the young leaves and stem and the plant will not bloom this year. From the upcoming late spring frosts, lily sprouts can be covered with paper, hay or straw and removed after frost.
Shelter The snow-white lily (candidum) must be removed gradually so that the overwintered leaves do not dry out. It is advisable to water this type of lily in the spring with heated water so that the roots quickly become involved in the development process and begin to nourish the overwintered leaves. Their roots are close to the soil surface.
When the first shoots appear, it is necessary to carry out the first loosening land. But if the stem of the lily at the base of the bulb is broken, then the plant, at best, will bloom in two years. When lilies were planted in the fall of the previous year and the planting holes were dug correctly, filled with compost, humus and fertilizers, then such lilies feed in spring and in the summer there is no need for two years.

If lilies grow in one place for 3-4 years, then for these plants, when sprouts appear from the ground, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers per 1 m2 of potassium salt - 10 grams, ammonium nitrate - 15, superphosphate - 25. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of 5 - 8 cm. Second feeding done two weeks later in the same way as the first, only ammonium nitrate is added - 10 grams. Third feeding produced during the budding period. Potassium salt - 10 grams, superphosphate - 25 grams are added per 1 m2. It is better to dissolve fertilizers in 5 - 10 liters hot water, let the water cool and then pour the solution evenly onto 1 m2 of soil under the lilies.
Simultaneously with fertilizing it is necessary cultivate the land 1% Bordeaux mixture or solution suitable fungicide to prevent fungal diseases (botrytis, fusarium).
All lilies cannot tolerate excess moisture in the ground, do not like heavy soils and prefer cool, moist and loose soil. Therefore, we need to think about the future mulching the soil, and light-colored mulch, or about planting accompanying annual and perennial plants with shallow roots around the lilies. These can be: alyssum, arabis, viola, forget-me-nots, petunias, primroses, daisies, etc.

If lily bulbs are purchased in the spring, then you should strive to plant them in the soil as early as possible. When this cannot be done, then measures must be taken to prevent them from drying out. Store in plastic bags in damp sawdust or moss in the refrigerator at a temperature above 4°C above zero. C. You can plant the bulb in a container with soil, so that later, when the soil in the open ground warms up, you can prepare planting holes and transplant them to the site.
In the spring at the same time as landing lily bulbs, you can very carefully, without damaging the roots, break off a few outer scales near the bottom, which are then used for further breeding of the desired variety. Powder the broken areas with ash, or even better, treat the bulb and scales with foundationazole to protect against fungal diseases. The scales are planted next to the bulb or separately on beds sprinkled with sand, so that 1/3 of the scale protrudes above the soil surface. The planted scales should not dry out; to do this, they must be covered with moss. You can place the treated scales in a bag with moistened peat and keep them for 4 - 8 weeks until bulbs form, and then plant them in boxes or soil. While in the bag, the scales should not come into contact with the walls of the bag, and the film should not fog up, otherwise the scales will rot.

When growing lilies, timely removal of weeds is of great importance. It is necessary to loosen the soil more often for better aeration and protection from drying out. All of the above events are held in early spring and early summer. They are suitable for all varieties of lilies. For different types Lilies have their own more specific methods of caring for plants, but this cannot be described in one note. (Based on materials from Tatiana Borodina, an avid summer resident)

Our globe is large and each region located on it has its own special climatic conditions, which must be taken into account when planting certain plants. Only in this case, the financial resources spent, as well as the labor invested, will not be in vain and your summer cottage (or maybe a garden, vegetable garden or dacha) will delight you with the result.

This condition concerns not only the planting of vegetables and fruit trees, but also flower bulbs, including lilies. First of all, I would like to recommend not to rush into planting lily bulbs in the spring, they may die. By the way, this fact surprises many, including those who have been gardening for a long time. The main argument is: well, we plant for the winter, and the bulbs don’t die! Yes, they don’t die, they grow well and are not even afraid of light frosts in spring. But here the whole secret lies in one thing - planting before winter. Accordingly, the bulb hardens over the winter and tolerates the cold more easily than a bulb planted in the spring.

Should I store the bulbs at home until spring planting?

In general, in specialized storage facilities of various nurseries and farms, bulbs of any lilies can be stored for three to six months without damage to future plants. But special conditions, including temperature ones, are created there.

But it is almost impossible to create such conditions at home. Many people try to store bulbs in a household refrigerator, but, firstly, the temperature there constantly fluctuates, and secondly, it is almost always 4-6 degrees Celsius. This is fine for produce, but not for lily bulbs. This temperature is a normal temperature for germination for them.

By the way, for the same reason, it is not recommended to purchase lily bulbs before the time when, after purchase, they can be planted directly into the soil. That is, even despite various advertisements, promotions and discounts, do not rush to buy planting material in February-March. They quickly begin to germinate, even though they are stored in the refrigerator. And literally in a couple of weeks we will have long, thin, pale and not very even sprouts of lilies in the refrigerator. Accordingly, there is no need to talk about beautiful flowering in summer at all. During this process, the bulbs become depleted and they may not germinate at all the next year. So no need to rush!

Why can't you plant bulbs in early spring?

Why is it undesirable to transport and plant bulbs with sprouts?

When to buy and plant bulbs in the spring?

Lilies- bulbous plants of the lily family.

Available big number species and varieties with flowers various shapes and colors, different terms flowering.

The perennial organs of lilies are bulbs ranging in size from 1-1.5 cm to 30 cm in diameter and up to 2 kg in weight.

The color of the bulbs is different: white, yellow, pink and purple.

In addition to the bulbs, lilies have perennial sub-bulb roots up to 50 cm in length, which should be protected from breakage during transplantation and efforts should be made to preserve them completely.

Annual roots develop in stem-root lilies on the stem above the bulb.

Planting depth of various lily bulbs: 1 - without supra-bulb roots; 2 - winter-hardy lilies with medium-sized bulbs; 3 - large, insufficiently winter-hardy species

According to the structure of the underground organs, lilies are divided into species whose bulb forms only an aboveground stem and species that have underground shoots-stolons.

Stolons can branch and produce several aboveground stems. The stolons are covered with sparse scales. Stoloniferous lilies reproduce well by scales.

Species whose stem grows obliquely underground and emerges on the surface of the buds 20-30 cm away from the planted bulb.

The leaves are elongated linear, the arrangement on the stem is alternate, whorled or in a basal rosette.

The number of flowers on a stem ranges from 1 to 100.

According to the shape of the flower, they are distinguished: goblet-shaped, directed upward (Daurian and saffron lilies); funnel-shaped semi-drooping (regale and candidum lilies); turban-shaped with perianth lobes turned away to the peduncle; drooping(lily Martagon and Willmott); bell-shaped with curved tips of the perianth lobes (Kesselring lily). Meet and terry forms. Most often, the flowers are collected in inflorescences: racemes, whorled or umbellate.

Lilies propagate by natural and artificial division of bulbs; baby bulbs formed in stem-root lilies on the stem above the mother bulb; bulblets, formed in some species in the axils of leaves, and seeds.

Seeds should be stored at a temperature of + 8-15°, at more high temperature Germination rate decreases and germination time increases.

According to the speed of germination and the nature of seedlings, lilies are divided into those that germinate quickly, after 2-3 weeks, and those that form above-ground shoots (coral lilies, Willmott, pretty, Tibetan, oat, Formosan, Sargent, drooping, long-flowered, sulfur, tiger); extended germination (from 2 to 18 months), but above-ground seedlings (lilies candidum, Colchedonian, Henry, special); lilies with underground shoots that germinate after a year or more (golden lilies, bulbous lilies, Canadian lilies, Kesselring lilies, Martagon lilies, monofraternity lilies, Shovitsa lilies).

In relation to soil acidity, lilies can be divided into two groups: those that tolerate acidic, peaty soils (tiger lilies, Maximovich, David, Willmott, pleasant, Daurian) and lilies that require neutral soils (mainly lilies with white or light-colored flowers).

When preparing soil for planting lilies, 10-15 kg/m2 of peat should be added to the first group, and lime should be added to the rest 1-2 years before planting (200-400 g/m2 quicklime or 500-100 g/m2 slaked).

The most suitable for most lilies are loamy soils that are permeable and provide drainage.

Since lilies grow in one place for 3 to 10 years, the soil should be carefully prepared. Dig the ground to a depth of 35-50 cm, arrange drainage from stones and gravel on heavy soils, add 10-15 kg of leaf humus and 80 g of superphosphate per 1 m2.

The planting depth for stem-root lilies is 4-5 times the size of the bulb (planting depth is calculated from the bottom of the bulb), for candidum lilies and its hybrids - 7-12 cm, or 2-3 cm above the bulb.

Young 1-2 year old bulbs are planted at half the planting depth of adult bulbs. The planting technique is as follows: a deep furrow is made, at the bottom of which a mound of humus is poured under each bulb, 2-4 cm of sand is poured onto the ground under the bottom, the bulb is placed, covered with soil, watered and filled to the required depth.

According to winter hardiness, lilies can be divided into three groups: completely winter-hardy lilies that can withstand frosts of -30°C and below (Daurian, thin-leaved, oat, two-row, martogon, pleasant, tiger, one-color, calloused, saffron, bulbous, umbrella), less winter-hardy - the bulbs of lilies of this group are damaged by prolonged snowless frosts below -20°C (regale, centrifolium, henry, Schowitz, Kesselring, monofraternity, Ganson, Colhedonskaya, Ledebura, candidum, white martogon, catania and others) and insufficiently winter-hardy lilies overwintering in open ground only under good cover (Sargent, golden, special, Nepalese, Brown, Philippine and others).

For a successful wintering of lilies of the first group, a layer of snow of 30-40 cm is needed (the thickness of the snow cover is considered sufficient when its thickness in centimeters corresponds to the number of degrees below zero).

For the second group it is necessary additional cover a layer of humus (but not manure) of 5-8 cm or a layer of wood leaf of 5-7 cm, which is applied to the plantings after the soil freezes by 4-6 cm.

For lilies of the third group, plank boards covered with roofing felt and exceeding the width of the ridge by 50-60 cm should be prepared. Dense earthen ramparts are arranged around the ridge, on which a shield is laid, and on top of the shield - a layer of insulating material of 15-25 cm.

Daurian lily. Stem-root lily, bulb flat, loose. The stems bear umbellate inflorescences of 8-12 bright brick-red flowers. Flowers fade in the sun. Blooms in June and bears fruit. Quite hardy and winter-hardy. Grows well on moist loamy soils with some shade. Afraid of the presence of lime in the soil. Requires replanting every 3 years due to rapid and abundant reproduction by bulbs and root children.

Lily white, candidum. The bulb is oval-elongated, white-yellow. The leaves are broadly oval. The stem is 90-120 cm high. The pyramidal inflorescence consists of 6-20 fragrant flowers. It blooms in June-July, after flowering it has a dormant period, and in early September it begins to grow - a rosette of leaves is formed. Transplanted during the dormant period. Planting distances are 20-25 cm. Planting is shallow. Prefers moist loamy soil with good drainage and the addition of leaf humus under the roots. It is necessary to have lime in the soil. Requires shelter for the winter with leaves and spruce branches. Propagated by bulbs and scales.

Kesselring Lily. Stem-root lily. The bulb is large, yellowish, darkening after being removed from the soil. The inflorescence is pyramidal with 8-10 yellow fragrant flowers. Blooms in June. Sets seeds well. Prefers deep, humus-rich soils. They are replanted in the fall, after which it does not reach normal condition and does not bloom for 1-2 years. Doesn't form children. Propagated by seeds during autumn sowing and by scales.

Tiger lily. Stem-root lily. The stems are black-brown, pubescent, and bear pyramidal inflorescences with orange flowers. Blooms in August-September. Quite winter hardy. Grows well on loamy soils. It reproduces by pups and bulblets formed in the axils of the leaves.

Tibetan lily, regale. The bulb is large, slightly purple. It has supra-bulbous roots. The flowers are white, funnel-shaped with a strong aroma. Blooms in July. Prefers loamy, calcareous soils and a sunny location. It becomes smaller and dies on acidic peaty soils. Quite frost-resistant, but needs to be covered for the winter. It is afraid of late spring frosts, which kill the tops of young shoots with buds and leaves. Should be delayed too early development lilies by shading the soil, filling the surface of the area with snow and sawdust, especially in frost-prone places. Propagated by bulbs, shoots, scales and seeds, which are sown in January-February. Seedlings are kept at +20°C. Seated once. They are grown in a box for a year. Cover them thoroughly for the winter. Planted in the ground in the second spring. Seedlings bloom in 2-3 years.

Caring for lilies begins with removing coverings, careful loosening, and fertilizing with nitrogen (40-50 g of 1 m 2 saltpeter or 10 liters of mullein solution, to which a tablespoon of ash is added). Lilies respond positively to mulching with humus in a layer of 2-3 cm with the addition of fertilizers (ammonium nitrate - 50 g, superphosphate - 10 g, potassium salt - 10 g) or ash.

As the stems grow, deeper loosening is carried out, but this must be done very carefully so as not to break the sprouts. For the emerging sprouts, a second feeding is carried out with a solution of mullein (1:10) or ammonium nitrate (30 g per 10 liters of water) with the addition of microfertilizers.

In dry weather, it is advisable to water, using 25-30 liters of water per 1 m2, since the roots of lilies are located very deep. The next feeding is carried out during the budding period (nitrogen 40 g, phosphorus 10 g, potassium fertilizers 10 g). Fertilizing with the same dosage is repeated before flowering and after flowering.

When placing lilies, one should take into account their susceptibility to various diseases. Often meets fungal disease botrytis (gray mold). First, round or oval brown or reddish spots appear on the lower leaves, which in damp weather become covered with a gray coating of mold. The spots merge, the leaf turns brown and dies.

The lesion, moving up the stem, reaches the seed pods or buds, which fall off. Control measures include burning all plant residues, planting lilies in the spring, sprinkling with wood ash (300 g/m2), spraying seedlings with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or soda ash 50-70 g per 10 liters of water. Spraying is repeated periodically.

In addition to botrytis, lilies are affected by a viral mosaic (light spots or lines along the leaves), the edges of the leaves turn up. When severely damaged, lilies stop blooming and form ugly stems with curled leaves on a dwarf plant. Such plants are immediately dug up and burned.

Lilies are used for flower beds and borders, borders near tall perennials and shrubs, in groups on the lawn, near ponds and hedges, for cutting and forcing.