How to properly lay chipboard on a wooden floor. Moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard for the floor: how to choose the right one, advantages, installation and price for moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard

Chipboard flooring has fairly good strength indicators, so it is often installed in apartments and houses not only by professionals, but also by private craftsmen. This modern coating can be used as a rough or independent flooring, which has an attractive appearance. It can be laid on any type of surface, including old coatings, without resorting to their preliminary dismantling, which reduces the cost of coating and work.

Features of application

Using this material you can hide base defects, crevices, cracks and irregularities. Quite often, for such work, a 3-mm plate is used, which has moisture-resistant properties. During the production process, it is impregnated with oil, and at the installation stage, as a rule, it is placed on the first floors.

If you have to work with a floor that has significant unevenness, then it is worth purchasing a 6 mm slab. On sale you can find chipboard of the desired variety, among them: soft boards, hard boards with a refined surface, hard boards with a tinted front layer, as well as material with a front layer of thin dispersion wood pulp. You can also purchase hard slabs of increased strength, which have a front layer in the form of a thin dispersion mass.

Why choose chipboard

A chipboard floor has many advantages over those installed using other materials. The advantages include low cost, environmental safety, as well as a dense structure that can be obtained by hot pressing of sawdust. Among other things, the plates cope well with mechanical stress, are durable and strong. If you cover the floor with this material, it will be well sound and heat insulated.

The flat surface of the material allows you to get a flat floor on which you can lay any covering. Even an inexperienced person can cope with the work, since the material is easy to install. During manufacturing, synthetic resins and antiseptics are added to the raw materials, which are designed to improve the properties of the material, because in terms of quality characteristics it is compared with natural wood.

If you use chipboard correctly, it will last a long time. Recommendations include applying waterproof paint or water-repellent varnishes, which can also improve the appearance of the coating.

Installation of chipboard floors: preparation of slabs

Before you start laying a chipboard floor, you need to prepare the slabs, which must undergo acclimatization in the room and also gain normal humidity. This will prevent swelling of the material during operation. For two days, the sheets are kept indoors in a calm state. If the floor surface has large differences, then you should lay the flooring from logs or fill the solution. You can check the horizontalness of the rough surface using a building level, which will help you make marks at the same height along the perimeter of the walls. Once the marks are connected, it will become clear whether the floor requires leveling.

Preparing the base and laying sheets

If you decide to make a floor from chipboard, then you should prepare the base for installation. A perfectly flat surface can be achieved using a screed based on cement and sand, which is poured to the line marked in the previous step. Before pouring, the surface should be cleaned and dried by pouring a 50 mm layer of sand, and the finished solution should be distributed on top. After drying, a primer or bitumen is applied to the screed, which is pre-dissolved in gasoline. After waiting 8 hours, you can begin laying the chipboard using glue or mastic.

The entire surface of the screed is covered with mastic or a thin layer of glue. The slabs should also be treated with an adhesive composition. Bituminous mastic dries quickly enough, so it should be applied to the area where one sheet is laid. Afterwards, the composition is leveled with a rubber comb and the slabs are fastened. After this, pressure must be applied to the surface, which will act for some time until drying. The resulting coating can be used after a few days.

Laying chipboard on joists

Chipboard can be laid on the floor after installing the log system. Before this, you should measure the dimensions of the sheets in order to make markings on the floor. You should use beams treated with an antiseptic that have been well dried beforehand. They are attached directly to the floor, the distance between them should not be more than 40 cm. If you use undried wood, this may cause it to rot or deform. In this case, after 2 years the floor will require repairs. It should be noted that the width of the material slabs should not be greater than the width of the joists, otherwise the floor will be uneven and large pieces of furniture will fall over.

The tongue-and-groove chipboard for the floor is laid using a certain technology. Before starting work, the material must be inspected for the presence of mold, in which case a primer and antiseptic are applied to the surface. Having retreated about 10 mm from the wall, you can begin to lay the material, this will allow you to form it. After completion of the work, it is decorated with a plinth. The plates must fit well to each other and not form distortions. Installation must begin from the wall opposite the exit.

The slabs are laid out near adjacent walls, preventing the formation of a narrow strip along them. If chipboard is installed with glue, then it should be leveled over the entire surface of the sheet, allowing it to dry. To achieve higher strength, the floor is primed before applying the glue. If there is a vertical pipeline in the room, then a gap around the circumference should be left near it, which is filled with cement-sand mortar.

Chipboard or plywood are laid on the floor in such a way that the joints of the slabs do not fall in those places where the floor is used with the greatest intensity. This should include areas near the refrigerator, stove or sink. Fastening is carried out using nails, screws and self-tapping screws. If the slabs are 19 mm thick, then nails should be used. They need to be driven in at an angle of 30°, spaced 10 cm apart from each other. Chipboard should be laid on the floor in such a way that the nail heads are firmly driven into the material and do not protrude from above. Traces from fasteners should be repaired using a material that matches the color of the coating. Do not use long nails as this may cause damage to wires and pipes located under the base.

The joints are sealed with putty to make the floor attractive. If you place the structure on joists, this will make the floor warmer. If you need to perform complex cutting of the slab, you need to use a template prepared in advance from cardboard. If laying is carried out on a wooden base, then it is not used.

Final works

Quite often in houses it is used to repair chipboard; it can be coated with this material to obtain a perfectly flat surface. At the final stage, the glue should be removed with a rag, and the resulting gaps should be sealed with putty. Such a surface is often primed and sanded, but this is not necessary if there is laminate, parquet, carpet or linoleum on top. If you nevertheless decide to paint, then you can use a painting compound or alkyd enamel, which has water-repellent characteristics.

The tongue and groove floor can also be used as a stand-alone covering if you need a budget solution.

Linoleum is a high-quality, durable, relatively inexpensive material for finishing floors. That is why it continues to be considered one of the best options for finishing flooring in apartments and houses. However, linoleum has certain requirements - its installation must be done on a leveled and cleaned surface. Chipboard on a linoleum floor is one of the most common ways to create a level base for laying the material.

There are several common materials suitable for creating a smooth subfloor. They differ from each other in some characteristics and installation requirements. However, the materials under consideration are united by the fact that they are all made using wood shavings or sawdust.

Table. Floor leveling materials made from wood waste.

On a note! When choosing any material, it is important to take into account several factors - the microclimate of the room, and what work it will be used for. However, in order to choose a product for creating a rough base, it is important to pay special attention to the thickness of the material, because too thin can easily break under the weight of a person or furniture.

All of the above materials have certain characteristics, including installation requirements, which are important to consider when choosing. For example, fiberboard can only be used in dry rooms - where there is high humidity, it has no place. The material easily absorbs water, as a result of which it deforms and loses its performance characteristics. But on a level base and in a dry room, it will serve as an excellent substrate for linoleum and will even make the floors warmer.

There is another type of building material made from wood waste. This is a chipboard familiar to many.

What is chipboard

Chipboard can be found in various fields. The material is used to make furniture, elements used in construction (for example, formwork), room partitions, containers, etc. The material is also used in the installation of floors.

Characteristics of particle boards

Chipboard (or chipboard) is made in the form of a fairly large sheet obtained from sawdust and shavings, pressed using hot pressing technology (pressure about 0.2-5 MPa at a temperature of more than +120 degrees) with the addition of resins and additional chemicals components. The volume of special additives by weight of the entire sheet can range from 6% to 18%.

On a note! The production of chipboard was carried out back in the 30s of the twentieth century - inventor Max Himmelheber came up with the material. However, chipboard was first produced for sale only in 1941. And in 1951 the scientist received a patent for this material, but of a modern type.

Now chipboard has spread widely throughout the world and is an affordable and popular construction material for creating furniture and building elements. Thanks to the appearance of this product, less wood waste has been recycled - now the volume of completely unusable material is only about 10%.

Tabletop made of chipboard sheets

Table. Characteristics of chipboard.

Types of chipboard

There are two main types of particleboard. Laminated and extruded options are available for sale. The first is designated by the abbreviation LDSP; the sheets are covered with damage-resistant melamine film or varnish (for more expensive types of boards). Thanks to this, the material is not afraid of moisture. Laminated chipboard has increased strength characteristics and is often used to create furniture.

Extruded chipboard has less strength and can easily break when bent, but the effort required to do this is still quite large. The material is practically not produced in Russia.

Chipboard - pros and cons

Chipboard, like any other material, has its pros and cons. Knowing them, it is easy to decide whether it is worth using such a slab to create a subfloor.

Advantages of chipboard:

• low price (much lower than solid wood flooring);
• smooth and even surface that does not require additional leveling;
• some species have sufficient density and strength. Suitable for installation on joists;
• The chipboard coating will be reliable and durable;
• good heat and sound insulation characteristics;
• high adhesion rates - you can use glue when carrying out work;
• ease of installation;
• Suitable for laying under linoleum.

However, chipboard, for all its advantages, also has many disadvantages, which manifest themselves quite strongly during operation. Disadvantages of chipboard:

• nails and screws are often used to fasten chipboard, but the material does not hold them well;
• does not like dampness and can deteriorate in a damp room;
• the edges of the slabs often crumble and collapse;
• This is a fire hazardous material.

The main disadvantage of chipboard is the lack of environmental safety. The material releases formaldehyde vapor into the environment, a substance hazardous to human health, especially in high concentrations.

One of the main parameters when choosing slabs is the maximum permissible concentration of formaldehyde per specific volume. This indicator is determined by sanitary standards. Unfortunately, in Russia there are many chipboard production companies whose managers do not care about the health of consumers and produce low-quality and sometimes even dangerous material.

It is impossible to answer unequivocally whether it is good to use chipboard for installing a subfloor under linoleum. Very often, the decision whether or not to purchase material for this purpose appears after assessing the operating conditions of the slabs. If the conditions are not suitable for using chipboard, then it is better to abandon the material in favor of another.

Preparing the base and laying chipboard

In general, laying chipboard is quite simple and can be done quite quickly, even by one person. However, it is important to remember that the base for the material requires some preparation. The surface of the concrete screed must be thoroughly cleaned of construction debris, dirt, dust - even a small pebble can negate all the work done. All surface defects - cracks, bumps - must be removed. The bumps are polished, and the cracks are sealed using mortars.

The rough wooden base is tested for strength - rotten boards are removed and replaced with strong and new ones. All irregularities and cracks are removed/sealed, and construction debris is also removed.

It is important to know! The chipboard must be securely attached to the floor, otherwise the linoleum laid on top, due to the movement of the material, will itself lie unevenly, and the entire floor will turn out to be very unreliable.

The base, after carrying out the above-described series of works and after drying, is subjected to priming. It is advisable to use formulations with antiseptics. The applied primer layer dries within approximately three days.

You should also pay special attention to the purchase of chipboard. You should choose a thicker one for the floor, especially if you plan to install the slabs on joists. Chipboard is a somewhat fragile material. It is recommended that each sheet be additionally treated with an antiseptic and dried well before installation. Otherwise, fungus and mold can reach the material, although chipboard is not prone to infection by them.

Installation technology: laying linoleum on chipboard

Step 1. A lag system is mounted on the prepared rough surface. It is convenient to use bars with a thickness of at least 25 mm and a width of 80 mm. The logs are laid in such a way that there is a small gap of 2-3 mm between the sheathing and the wall of the room. The distance between individual lags in the sheathing is at least 40 cm. For chipboard sheets thicker than 18 mm, a larger distance can be left. The space between the joists can be filled with insulation for better thermal insulation of the floor.

Attention! Chipboard sheets are also cut before starting work. By the way, it is not recommended to throw away the pieces remaining during sawing. They can be useful for forming a subfloor in hard-to-reach and non-standard places.

Step 2. The chipboard log system is covered. The material is attached to a wooden frame using self-tapping screws at 30 cm intervals. It is important that the fastener heads do not protrude above the surface of the chipboard - they go slightly deeper into the material. A small gap of 1 cm remains between the chipboard and the wall to compensate for the expansion of the material if its dimensions change due to the effects of temperature and humidity.

On a note! If many sheets of chipboard are laid, then the joints must be positioned so that they do not run in one row. It is best to move them 10-15 cm away from each other.

Step 3. All cracks and gaps between the chipboard boards are puttied.

Step 4. Next, the prepared chipboard surface is cleared of debris. The linoleum is spread on the surface and left for some time so that it can “sit down”. A special adhesive for linoleum is applied to the chipboard surface with a notched trowel, and then the linoleum itself is glued.

Let's start laying linoleum. It is important that the material “rest” before this

Step 5. The compensation gap along the wall is closed with a plinth.

You can also glue linoleum to the base using double-sided tape, but usually it is used only to fix the material in the area of ​​​​the joints.

Video - Installation of chipboard on the floor

Video - How to lay linoleum correctly

A few tips will help improve the quality of the final work.

Linoleum can be laid on almost any flat surface. A prerequisite is the absolute absence of grooves and tubercles. Otherwise, all these flaws will be visible on the surface of the already fixed linoleum and will spoil the overall appearance of the final work. That is why chipboard can be used to level the floor - the surface of the slabs is smooth. But this, unfortunately, is far from the best option for creating a subfloor.

Chipboard sheets are used to level the floor and create a base for various types of external coverings. The material is popular due to its low cost and the possibility of self-installation. In terms of their characteristics, chipboards are superior to many similar materials. This type of material occupies one of the leading positions in its field and deservedly enjoys the authority and respect of builders. The versatility of application and installation allows many structural elements, usually interior structures, to be made from sheets of this type.

The article will tell you about the advantages and disadvantages of chipboard, about methods of installing floor coverings on various bases made of this popular material.

Advantages and disadvantages, characteristics of chipboard

Chipboards are produced by pressing wood chips and phenol-formaldehyde resin, which acts as an adhesive substance. The thickness of the sheets varies from 16 to 24 mm. Sheets have a range of densities, safety classes and sizes. The main dimensions are 250x185 cm, 350x175 cm. There is a variety of chipboard sheets - tongue and groove with increased moisture resistance. Slabs are available with and without various coatings. Coated products have a longer service life and improved performance. The tongue-and-groove sheets are not joined together, but with a tongue-and-groove connection.

The main advantages of wood-based material are the following:

• Relatively low cost (boards are much more expensive);
• High compressive strength;
• Rigidity and staticity;
• High-quality smooth surface, which makes it indispensable when installing floors;
• Versatility for the use of various types of external floor coverings;
• Possibility of installation on various bases;
• High rates of thermal and sound insulation;
• Long service life subject to installation and processing conditions;
• Ease of installation - due to the large overall dimensions of individual elements and relatively low weight;
• Good resistance to mold and mildew.

There are also certain disadvantages of chipboard:

• Harmful effects of formaldehyde resin on human health. Tongue-and-groove chipboard sheets are produced using a different type of material that is neutral to humans.
• Impact brittleness. This drawback negatively affects the installation process - when struck, the corners of the sheets may break off, and so on.
• The material quickly loses strength and collapses when exposed to moisture.
• The material is flammable and fire hazardous.
• When fastening slabs, you can only make through fastening through holes, since the slab material has a low density and does not fix the fastening element.
• The surface of the material without coating is subject to severe abrasion and wear.

To protect the material from moisture, it is treated with varnish, primed and painted, and so on.

Installation of chipboard sheets

Sheets are used in the construction of the floor base for finishing coatings, less often used for finishing use. In the final version, high-quality and effective measures are taken to process and strengthen the surface of the sheets - painting in several layers, using non-abrading paints, processing with special compounds, etc. Depending on the design of the floors, the sheets are laid with some differences in methods and techniques. First you need to take quality measurements and develop a sheet laying scheme. The scheme is developed based on the smallest number of joints formed between the sheets. According to the general method, sheets are laid with a gap from the wall of at least 15 mm to compensate for possible thermal expansion of the material.

For installation you will need the following set of tools:

• Electric jigsaw, hacksaws for wood and metal;
• Screwdriver;
• Hammer, small axe;
• Planer (not always);
• Screwdrivers, chisel;
• Construction level, tape measure;
• Spatula and others.

Laying on plank floors

Laying sheets on old plank floors is done as follows. The floor surface is cleaned of dust, washed and dried. Next, the boards are re-attached to the (existing) joists. This is done using wood screws and a screwdriver. Each board is reattached to the joists - this event will eliminate the occurrence of creaking floors.

Then the first sheet (top sheet) is laid. Installation is carried out in compliance with the appropriate clearance from the wall. Fastening is done through prepared holes using screws. The screw head is turned until the head is recessed by 1 - 2 mm. Nails are used much less frequently for fastening. Fastening is done around the perimeter in increments of 20 mm and across the total area in increments of up to 50 mm. The horizontal surface of the installed sheet is checked with a building level; all subsequent sheets will be oriented towards it.

Wooden plank floors, as a rule, have a good overall horizon, but in case of horizontal deviations, strips of plywood are used for leveling. After installing and checking the first sheet, all subsequent sheets are installed, checked and secured in stages according to the prepared diagram. It is better to cut sheets to the required dimensions using an electric jigsaw. If you don’t have one, use a hacksaw for wood (it can also be used for metal, but its use is not very convenient).

After complete installation of the sheets, seams, joints and fastening holes are processed and sealed (putty and other materials of a similar type are used). If it is necessary to increase moisture protection measures, various measures are carried out - priming and painting, treatment with various compounds.

Laying on joists

If there is a concrete floor with large deviations in height at different points in the room, chipboard is laid on wooden logs. A wooden beam with a side size of at least 40 mm is used as a log. The wood is pre-treated with protective compounds.

The logs are laid with a certain step depending on the thickness of the material and the configuration of the floor surface. With a sheet thickness of 16 mm, the pitch is recommended to be at least 100 mm, with 24 mm - from 400 to 500 mm. The logs are laid with the first one horizontally. All subsequent logs are aligned along the horizon of the first log. For leveling, various substrates are used, uneven floors are smoothed out, and the wooden beam is trimmed with a plane.

After installing the logs, the top chipboard sheet is installed. Subsequently, the material is laid and secured according to the general method (described in the previous section of the article).

Laying chipboard on a concrete base

Chipboard is laid directly on the concrete base. To do this, a set of works is first carried out to level the concrete surface and form a horizontal line across the entire surface of the floor. These works are carried out using various ready-made mixtures, cement mortar, and so on.

The sheets are laid according to the diagram and attached to the concrete through the holes using dowels. Processing of joints and fastening points and moisture protection measures are carried out.

When using tongue-and-groove chipboard, fastening is done in a different way. The sheets are laid according to the scheme, they are sequentially connected and glued together using a tongue-and-groove fastening. To create a tighter joint and high-quality gluing, the sheets are wedged with wooden wedges into the gaps from the walls.

Conclusion

Chipboards are an excellent solution for creating a smooth floor surface. Due to the high-quality ratio of price, quality and ease of installation, they are very popular among craftsmen. Application in non-residential premises is mandatory, but in residential premises it is still better to use special (safe for humans) types of chipboard.

Laying the finishing floor covering requires the construction of a strong and level base, which will serve as a support for the future floor and at the same time serve as a sound and heat insulating layer for it. If you want to do it yourself, the easiest solution is to use chipboards. They are easy to work with, so you can cover the required area quite quickly and inexpensively.

Methods for installing chipboard floors

Chipboard subfloors can be laid in two different ways:

In both cases, the use of particle boards will allow you to significantly save on renovation work in an apartment or house. Laying chipboard will cost about half as much as, for example, plywood or OSB.

Laying on screed

If you want to make a subfloor in an apartment directly on a concrete or wooden base, its surface must first be leveled. If there are small irregularities, they can be removed, but if the height differences in individual areas are significant, it is better to fill the entire perimeter with a special leveling mixture or make a new concrete screed. You can easily perform this operation yourself.

You cannot lay chipboard directly on a concrete floor. Between them it is necessary to lay a layer of thick polyethylene film and insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or polyurethane foam).

The slabs are attached to the floor using screws and dowels. Each self-tapping screw must be tightened by hand until its head goes under the surface of the chipboard. Then the attachment points are covered with putty and sanded.

The slabs must be laid end to end. It is imperative to leave a gap of 10 mm between the subfloor layer and the wall. It is necessary to compensate for seasonal fluctuations in the size of the material.

If the subfloor is wooden, you can also lay chipboard on it. Before this, it is highly advisable to strengthen all places where the joists are installed - an old wooden floor, as a rule, creaks noticeably due to loose joints. The remaining recommendations are the same as in the case of a concrete base.

If after finishing the work there are noticeable gaps between the plates, they must be treated with wood putty or a mixture of PVA glue and sawdust, and then thoroughly sanded.

Before laying the slabs, do not forget to treat them with an antiseptic or two layers of drying oil.

Laying on joists

If the concrete layer of the rough screed in the apartment has pronounced irregularities that are difficult to remove manually, it is better to place the base surface made of chipboard on joists. This design is very similar to a regular wooden floor in a country house, with the exception that chipboard is much softer than floorboards, so joists need to be placed more often. With a slab thickness of up to 18 cm, the distance between them should be no more than 40 cm.

Laying a subfloor made of chipboard is carried out in the following order:

A wooden floor on joists is much more effective: the air gap under the chipboards provides the necessary ventilation, and in combination with insulation - excellent sound and heat insulation properties.

Features of a chipboard subfloor

When working with chipboard, it is necessary to take into account some features of this material, due to the specifics of their production:

You can use chipboard to support flooring in an apartment or country house. It is not recommended to use this solution in high-traffic areas, such as offices, shops or other service enterprises.

To summarize, we note that laying a flat surface under the finishing coating with your own hands using chipboard is quite simple. With minimal skills in handling wood materials, almost anyone can do this. Our video clip will help you once again analyze in detail the main stages of this process.

In order to renew an old wooden floor or insulate a concrete floor before laying the finishing coating (laminate, linoleum, parquet, etc.), chipboard is laid. Using this procedure, you can make a perfectly flat surface of the subfloor, and the material itself is cheaper than, for example, plywood, not to mention boards.

Do not forget that particle board is not suitable for laying on surfaces with significant loads (offices, etc.). And it is undesirable to lay it in places with high humidity (bathroom, etc.), because exposure to moisture will cause it to deform and collapse.

Laying on concrete floor

Chipboard can be laid on concrete in two ways.
The first method is to lay it directly on concrete, in which case the base should be level. To do this, you can fill.

The base must be dry, free of dust and small debris. Then sheets cut to size can be laid on it, so that there is a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm between the wall and the sheet.

Before laying, they must be coated with drying oil or antiseptic. After this, they are attached to the base with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the concrete directly through the chipboard. When installing, distribute the dowels over the entire surface of the sheet.

Option two - we lay it on joists. In this case, the thermal insulation will be better than when laid on concrete.
Since the air gap serves as an excellent heat insulator, the space can also be filled with insulation. With this method, no screed is required.

This results in not only financial savings, but also time savings (drying the screed lasts at least 1 month). Wooden blocks are used as lags.

Chipboard is more fragile than wood, so logs are placed more often than with a wooden floor. The work begins with installing the logs. The outermost logs are placed at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the walls. The next ones are placed 40 cm apart (no more).

They must be placed in the same plane, placing wooden wedges under each if necessary. We fix it with anchors.

At the next stage of work, if necessary, a heat insulator is placed in the free space. Then we lay the chipboard. The sheet must be cut so as to provide a gap from the wall of 10 - 15 mm, and the joint should be made in the center of the joist.

This will ensure a secure fit. We fix it with nails or self-tapping screws every 30 cm. The heads of the nails (screws) must be recessed into the slab so that there are no rough spots on the floor.

Now you need to wipe the gaps and cracks at the joints of the two sheets; to do this, you can mix PVA glue and sawdust (this will help avoid squeaking).

Laying on a wooden floor

To lay flooring, it is often necessary to make a fairly flat subfloor (under laminate, etc.). This is difficult to do on an old wooden floor.

And here chipboard comes to our rescue. First, you need to check the integrity of all boards; we check not only for mechanical damage, but also for fungus and mold, and replace damaged boards.

We also check the places where the boards are attached to the joists, including for the absence of squeaks; if necessary, we eliminate the latter and give the fastenings the proper appearance.

At the end of the preparatory work, we lay the sheets, level them, then fasten them with self-tapping screws to the wooden floor, leaving a gap of 10 - 15 mm between the wall and the sheet.

And the last stage is puttying the joints and heads of nails or screws. We sand the surface with sandpaper and cover it with 2 layers of varnish. After the varnish has dried, .

Watch the video:

Discussion: 11 comments

Tell me how to correctly lay out the chipboard sheets so that there is less cutting, is there any form of calculation? And is it possible to coat the joints of the sheets (ends) with glue or silicone?

Hello, Alexander.
In principle, there is no form of calculation; it all depends on the size of the room.
And it is better to coat the joints of the sheets in the old and proven way: mix PVA glue with sawdust.
Using this mixture, you can avoid the occurrence of squeaking floors in the future.

Hello, Alexander.
To improve thermal insulation, is it possible to put an insulator with a shiny film under the chipboard on the concrete, and lay it with foil to the concrete or chipboard.

Hello Andrei. My name is Pavel.

Of course, foil insulation can be placed under chipboard; it is always placed with foil to the concrete.

Sorry, I looked in the wrong place.
Thanks for the consultation.

No problem, please contact me if anything happens.

HELLO! WHAT MIXTURE CAN BE USED WHEN LAYING CHIPBOARDS ON UNEVEN
CONCRETE FLOOR?

Hello Sergey.
If differences on a concrete floor do not exceed 2 mm per 1 meter, then rubber-based parquet adhesive can be used.
If the differences are large, then it is better to level the floor.

Good afternoon.
I have an old wooden floor that is not level, covered with hardboard, I want to put an insulator with a shiny film and a tongue and groove chipboard on top. there is an uneven angle; lowering the beam is problematic; a house built in 1924 will the chipboard withstand a difference of 3 cm per 1 m. the chipboard will not burst. I read that they are strong enough that they can be placed on a 30*40 sheathing. The question is, can the slabs be laid on an uneven floor or should it be leveled?

Hello Mikhail.
It is better to level the floor before laying chipboard; 3 cm is still a lot.
You can level it with wood putty. You can make the putty yourself; to do this, you need to mix PVA glue and small sawdust.

Is it possible to put plastic film on the screed under the chipboard?